Heat issues

[Jessejames]

Ok so i got a new setup for my proboat 36 since i burned down the esc....And now i am running a leopard 4074 1800kv with 150a esc and hoffman?s sonic 2 prop...had posted other issues and different threads where i had collet heat issues were it was slipping The flex shaft and causing heat fast in the collet which there for spread to the motor making even more heat....Mind you i have since i had this boat have also adjustable trim tabs, dual rudder pick up, bigger cooling lines ,ose upgraded flex shaft , new collet,and its a d wind motor timed at 0 degrees ...And yet i still have so much heat were it started smoking a little and this is only with 2 passes mind you...And yes i had put the stock prop on and still have issues which makes no sense since it is well better of then it was in stock form....I am getting to the point were i thing this motor is binding or bad bearings out the box...Everything is super cool to the touch shaft,esc,collet,lipos,except this dam motor which I purchased here from OSE so yeah that were im pretty much at so any suggestions im all ears but man process of elimination at this point ...

[larryrose11]

we could use pictures of your setup.
Are there sharp turns in the cooling lines?
Generally, its the hose barb fittings that are a bottle neck to the cooling flow.

[Jessejames]

No there is no sharp turns and the flow is very good with minimum bends without restrictions

[Jessejames]

I am getting close to get a new motor and its funny i have the stock motor 3674 1900kv and when just hooked up and held in my hand the the stock motor barely gets hot with full throttle for a while...and when i have the leopatd 4074 1800kv in my hand again full throttle it gets hot alot quicker...how does that make sense unless something is binding or bearings are not good

[Shadow99]

I?d check the motor for ground faults, by using an ohm meter. Unplug motor from esc, insert one meter probe into one of the three leads going into the motor (L1, L2, L3), & touch the other meter probe to the motor case.
Any sign of continuity between the motor legs & the motor case is a sign of a shorted winding, which will cause the motor to stumble under load & excessive heating of the motor.
You can also check resistance between motor legs, L1-L2, L1-L3, L2-L3, all readings should be within 0.01 of an ohm.
Shadow

[Sonicwake]

Ok so i got a new setup for my proboat 36 since i burned down the esc....And now i am running a leopard 4074 1800kv with 150a esc and hoffman?s sonic 2 prop...had posted other issues and different threads where i had collet heat issues were it was slipping The flex shaft and causing heat fast in the collet which there for spread to the motor making even more heat....Mind you i have since i had this boat have also adjustable trim tabs, dual rudder pick up, bigger cooling lines ,ose upgraded flex shaft , new collet,and its a d wind motor timed at 0 degrees ...And yet i still have so much heat were it started smoking a little and this is only with 2 passes mind you...And yes i had put the stock prop on and still have issues which makes no sense since it is well better of then it was in stock form....I am getting to the point were i thing this motor is binding or bad bearings out the box...Everything is super cool to the touch shaft,esc,collet,lipos,except this dam motor which I purchased here from OSE so yeah that were im pretty much at so any suggestions im all ears but man process of elimination at this point ...

How did you get the 40mm motor to fit

[Sonicwake]

I have a sonicewake had bad over heating problem in the beginning so I swaped out the esc and replaced it with hobbywing 180esc still running stock motor because I tried up grading the motor to a sss 36x82 2200 kv and with the sonic 2 prop from Hoffman the esc was back too over heating again now Im down to a 40mm prop can run hole pack threw it now but in proping down I lost speed so I'm going back to my stock 1900KV dynamite motor and back too the sonic 2 prop

[Sonicwake]

I was going to try and use a 40mm motor but with the stock plastic motor mount wouldnt let me plus the water jacket was hitting bottom of boat

[hansonchris5]

I was just curious if you ever concluded to what the issue is? Im in the same situation as you, upgraded to a leopard 4082 1600kv and seaking 180a. I am now slower and have more heat issues than before, makes no sense at all. I was running the m445 prop and had no issues, this current setup I get 1:30 run time?? No way should it be doing this... my motor sits at 110F, esc at 135F and batteries are 140F. The on wire capacitors are at 180-190F.

Myself and a few others are having this issue.

[Sonicwake]

My set up now is the hobbywing 180esc with a SSS 36x82 2200kv motor and Im running a 3blade 40mm prop I can run my whole pack threw it and not have any problems My question to you is how on earth did you get a 40mm motor to fit plus the hobbywing esc isn't up to the task of running a 40 mm motor

[hansonchris5]

My set up now is the hobbywing 180esc with a SSS 36x82 2200kv motor and Im running a 3blade 40mm prop I can run my whole pack threw it and not have any problems My question to you is how on earth did you get a 40mm motor to fit plus the hobbywing esc isn't up to the task of running a 40 mm motor

Took alot of modding to make it work, you need to grind down the bow side of the mount. Use a smaller waterjack as well, works great. I also re-enforced the mount with JW plasticweld.

The 180a and 4082 is a package deal from OSE... its put together for the Sparten.

[Sonicwake]

What size are you water lines Im running 4mm I would prop down and see if your heat issues will go away I was running the stock motor it came with coupled with the hobbywing esc running a 45ish prop from Chris Hoffman bifmg shout out to him on his props and the boat qas just as fast with stock motor as soon as I put the 2200kv one in I had to drop the prop clear to that 40mm 3 blade

[hansonchris5]

What size are you water lines Im running 4mm I would prop down and see if your heat issues will go away I was running the stock motor it came with coupled with the hobbywing esc running a 45ish prop from Chris Hoffman bifmg shout out to him on his props and the boat qas just as fast with stock motor as soon as I put the 2200kv one in I had to drop the prop clear to that 40mm 3 blade

Im running the same as you, 4mm. I just reached out to him about an hour ago and got a response 5min ago. Told him my seteup(4082 1600kv, 180a etc) and he suggested....

"my octura will put u in the 80?s(mph) cost u $118.50 shipped"

Im going to sit on this for a bit... $118 for a prop seems $$$. Am I wrong? I think I wouldnt mind trying some OSE CNC props for 20 a piece.

[Sonicwake]

Iam not saying he's wrong but there is no way I would pay that for a prop plus I have been tuning on my boat fo a min and max speed is 57 mph thats with the sss 36x82mm motor 2200 kv

[Sonicwake]

What size prop was that octura prop was that

[Sonicwake]

Are you using your boat to play with or are you going for speed runs

[Sonicwake]

OSE CNC props are all I have besides the Hoffman prop but when I switched motor I couldn't use that prop no more it was way to much on the esc

[hansonchris5]

I agree, way too much money for a prop. He didnt mention what the specs were of the prop either.

Im looking for something for all around use, boat ran awesome with the stock setup and a m445. Saw 60, great acceleration, etc. I would be happy with 55mph and no heating issues. The props I would like to try are out of stock on OSE... Im heading to the hobby shop after work to grab a few props for the hell of it. Thinking the X442, X642 and maybe a x645 for the hell of it. They are only 12 bucks each at the shop.

[Sonicwake]

I have props from 40 to 46 and with my current set up I get 57 if you put a 42 mm you should be fine how about all your fitting for you water lines I used a body reamer to make all the holes bigger on some of mine they were half the size of the water line which is no good plus the ones exiting the boat I put bigger ones in I think I got them from rcboatbiz I got them in an upgrade kit from him

[Sonicwake]

my boat is strictly for fun I have a 200ztw sealseries esc in it for awhile but it wouldn't self right because it mess with the weight of the boat that yhing didn't even get warm with the 46mm3 blade prop it was the motor but I couldn't run it for about 2 min and thats no fun If I can figure out how to upload pictures of it I will for you Im getting a wrap for it from darkside Studios it should be here today

[hansonchris5]

I drilled out all the nipples to a larger size, using 6mm discharge nozzles as well. Drilled out my 4 input holes on the rudder from rcboatbitz, LOTS of water flow. Ill start with the X442 and go from there.

[Sonicwake]

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[Sonicwake]

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[Sonicwake]

I think that's your best option If I can help you in any way just give me a shout may I ask were are you located

[Sonicwake]

I live in Illinois

[hansonchris5]

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Awesome, thanks for the help!

White Lake, Michigan

[Sonicwake]

Not telling you what to do but I woukd turn that fitting on your motor that is closest to the esc towards the front in would be a straight shot and you could not have the water line in a big curve just a suggestion

[Sonicwake]

Wish we were closer we could get together and run our boats I haven't found anybody around here that like to spend money like I do on my toys

[1coopgt]

Im running the same as you, 4mm. I just reached out to him about an hour ago and got a response 5min ago. Told him my seteup(4082 1600kv, 180a etc) and he suggested....

"my octura will put u in the 80?s(mph) cost u $118.50 shipped"

Im going to sit on this for a bit... $118 for a prop seems $$$. Am I wrong? I think I wouldnt mind trying some OSE CNC props for 20 a piece.

Chris's props are worth the price. You want to go fast his props will get you there unless you think you can balance and sharpen the props better.

[jaike5]

In both boats in the pics the water line exit on the motors should be at the top of the motor , so you don't get air lock in the water jacket.
Cheers, Jay.