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Thread: Shockwave 36 Revival / brushless build 2

  1. #1
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    Default Shockwave 36 Revival / brushless build 2

    10 years and 2 kids later.....slowly getting time back i think..... Found everything rusted together and now starting from scratch. Took 3 days of soaking in oil to get the driveshaft out....dang. my hydra hv180 was pregnant with science... Meh...... Stripped her down and started filling in the nitro air holes. Put new bearings in the neu 1521 1.5y. ordered a new esc....150a raider will give it a try. New 6s 5000mah on order. X442 and x440 for trials ...we'll see ..
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    Last edited by myskiis2fast4u; 07-12-2020 at 01:42 PM. Reason: Pics

  2. #2
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    Always nice to see an old hull brought back to life..... keep us posted...!!

  3. #3
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    Had about an hour today to finish bondo and sanding and 2 part epoxy primer! IMG_20200712_220714.jpg

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  5. #5
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    I filled in the openings up top and the original exhaust pipe hole....trying to figure out what color i have a full quart of.......

  6. #6
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    Convincing the wife that IMG_20200712_222809.jpgepoxy primer cant shoot and dry in humidity??....priceless .. if i had time to facebook and instagram......#sleepingwiththegoats

  7. #7
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    IMG_20200713_230110.jpgIMG_20200713_230039.jpg
    Oh what to do with left over Kubota orange ..
    2 coats then wet sand tomorrow for another two coats color....

  8. #8
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    Nice color !! Same color i use on my restored Stihl chainsaws....

  9. #9
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    IMG_20200718_224155.jpg. I hate paint.....my clear coat bubbled my base coat!!! Wtf.....my base coat was 48hrs dry....complete sand and restart...................maybe by september ill have a finished hull! ��

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by myskiis2fast4u View Post
    IMG_20200718_224155.jpg. I hate paint.....my clear coat bubbled my base coat!!! Wtf.....my base coat was 48hrs dry....complete sand and restart...................maybe by september ill have a finished hull! ��
    That sucks. For the clear coat, were you doing thin, or thick, layers? Also, how many did you do of each, and in what specific order? I know, that might seem like a strange question, but it isn't. I have an idea of what happened, but wouldn't be certain without your answers.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  11. #11
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    I did 4 light coats of the orange. I wet sanded between each coat with 800 grit and cleaned with acetone. The clear bubbled up the orange on the first coat of clear. My amateur home nail painter wife said my base coat wasnt dry. I guess i believe that? Just frustrating. Im hoping i can wet sand it out without losing too much base coat and then wait another 2 days do one shot of color....wait another two days and then run the clear.... I had the hull inside my house in 20% humidity drying the whole time... What do u think?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by myskiis2fast4u View Post
    I did 4 light coats of the orange. I wet sanded between each coat with 800 grit and cleaned with acetone. The clear bubbled up the orange on the first coat of clear. My amateur home nail painter wife said my base coat wasnt dry. I guess i believe that? Just frustrating. Im hoping i can wet sand it out without losing too much base coat and then wait another 2 days do one shot of color....wait another two days and then run the clear.... I had the hull inside my house in 20% humidity drying the whole time... What do u think?
    If your first clear coat caused that, then my breast guess tells you did too heavy a coat. By going to thick on the clear coat...especially the first few layers, you probably caused the paint to "bunch up". I've done the same thing...and, like you, I wasn't happy, but I also realized I caused it. Just sand it smooth, until the "bunched up" areas of paint are no longer visible, and then start again from that point.

    Just like doing multiple thin layer of paint, you need to do at least a few thin layer of the clear...the thinner, the better (also, the thinner, the more than layers you should do)...giving 1-2 hours between layers. If "moderately thin", I'd probably do 4-6 layers. If "extra thin", I'd probably do 6-8 layers, and possibly 10. If need be, spread spraying the layers into two days. After the final 'thin' later, wait 24-48 hours before spraying the final 1-2 thicker layers.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  13. #13
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    IMG_20200812_225406.jpg Taking forever!!!! I sanded the whole boat back to scratch....used $75 worth of 2part epoxy primer....went to my neighbor who has a body shop and color matched the kubota orange i started with but made me 2stage dupont paint.....50psi and a quart later here it is. This is now 5 days of dry time!!!!! Oh and 2 coats clear....all on a harbor freight hvlp........ Now i just have to look at that raider 150a esc amd solder up my motor and battery leads toy liking. Forcast maiden rebirth voyage labor day. Mystic Island NJ far away from those dumb ass "knuckleheads".

  14. #14
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    https://youtu.be/IfPZo_POSc0
    God dammit....i dropped a dang nut and cant find it.......dont put family to sleep and drink and work on rc boats........lolol....maybe tomorrow voyage!!!

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    So i did a test run in a tiny pond down the street and she wouldnt even come up on plane with the x440 prop. I originally had a x442 on it and i thought that maybe it was too big??? I thought this because when i would be in the hole my roms were super high and then as i planed out the roms dropped as the prop bit. I was concerned with the prop biting too much and causing a largwr than normal load on the flexi shaft. So thats y i deopped prop size.
    So question is....how do i know what prop size to use? Should i be churning dead water to get up and out? Should the prop just bite and the boat wheelies????? I dunno other than buying a bunch of props. Anyone else left out there with a 10lb boat on 6s???

  17. #17
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    Both props are too small for a 36" hull. The RPM's are climbing out of the hole because the prop is slipping and cavitating.

    Bigger concern, you said you're running a Neu 1521 1.5y motor. If I understand that correctly, OSE's website says that's a 1050kV motor. That motor on 6S is only about 23K max RPM, which in theory could work with tempered performance, but certainly not with a tiny prop.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  18. #18
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    Nice!!!! This is the info im looking for. I have the orig x648 that was on the nitro boat originally. Is that too big? What do u think is a good size for that boat? I could buy 10 diff props but would be nice to hone it down closer to a few!!!

  19. #19
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    I'd start with an 447 (47mm 1.4 pitch), maybe a cheap aluminum CNC that's not incredibly strong, but thin and sharp right out of the package.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  20. #20
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    Ok ty! Appreciate it.....

  21. #21
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    https://youtu.be/hhNlnDgqnsk
    First run not on video i used a x648 and that thing hooked up amazingly.....then....the prop nut came off and lost the prop....
    That was swim 1. Swim 2 was the video with an x442. I have to stand in a better spot.... I get nervous around my neighbors boat. Im sure he would not appreciate an orange streak down the side of his 35fter......... Anyhow i tried studying the video and it looked like she chined on my and i just lost it... She sunk and left the nose up by the time i got to it and somehow survived. That OSE raider 150 is freaking amazing so far. Very happy thats holding so far. I have 4 batteries in her....4, 3s, 5200mah for 6s in a series and then parallel condition. I have a feeling that x447 like fweasel recommended will do this boat good.... She rips water apart till it grabs and goes. Will try and get a better video tomorrow without crashing!!!!!

  22. #22
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    Please dont ever swim for a toy boat. Too many have died attempting this seemingly simple thing!
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  23. #23
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    Wowo....people shouldnt be swimming if they can swim!!! Anyway i didnt have a photographer this time so a few hot passes will have to do.

    https://youtu.be/7ioRrBU7t1Q

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by myskiis2fast4u View Post
    Wowo....people shouldnt be swimming if they can swim!!!

    https://youtu.be/7ioRrBU7t1Q
    Every year people die swimming after toy boats, very sad. As good a swimmer as you may be it is not a good thing to do. It sounds like you have kids with you in the vid too. Drowning because of a toy boat is not worth it. Please consider an inexpensive rescue rig or something.
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
    BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

  25. #25
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    I guess i assume too much of common sense for swimming. I grew up in the ocean. I have water for a backyard. Meh....anyway i still dont like swimming for boats. Ran another set of packs today and the hull just caught a weird spot and flipp3d!!! That sonicwake 36 is looking better after each fail. I must not have enough trim. Right now the tabs are even with the bottom of the hull. Maybe will try a bit more tilt to them. I can get a degree or two out of the outdrive support too. Are there any shockwave 36 experts left out there?

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