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Thread: Sonicwake 36 esc/motor upgrade

  1. #1
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    Jun 2020
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    Default Sonicwake 36 esc/motor upgrade

    Hi there everyone !!!So im trying to do a esc or esc/motor upgrade to my sonicwake...Just burned up the esc today (go figure right) and this boat can not handle 6s setup with a prop upgrade..short quick passes maybe but not enjoyable 7-10 mins though ...also ill have you know i have dual rudder pickup,upgrade 4mm waterlines,xt90 connectors,adjustable trim tabs,high discharge rate lipos , and so on...but want a good reliable 6s setup without to much heat or esc issues....I believe the motor is still fine just esc went up in smoke...i would like just to esc but i know that 1900kv is a little high for my prop....any Suggestions would be great!!!!

  2. #2
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    Like you, I've only been running 4S...partly because I've read enough of other people's problems, and partly because I've slowly been acquiring parts to 'upgrade' to 6S. In the meantime, I have been testing out several different props.

    Well, today I swapped all of the electronics (except the Rx...tho, that will be coming soon). Out went the underpowered Dynamite 120A ESC, with it's crappy EC5 connectors...in went a Seaking 180A ESC, with an OSE qs6 connector. Out went the Dynamite 1900kV motor, with 5mm bullets...in went a Leopard 1400kV motor, with 6mm bullets. Out went the underpowered Spectrum S605 servo...in went a Power HD servo with 50% more torque. And, finally, out went the OSE dual-pickup rudder...in went the Boat Bitz dual-dual-pickup rudder. What I'm hoping it's an "advantage", the Boat Bitz rudder not only has larger water tubes in the rudder...but, unlike the OSE rudder with one pickup for each water line, the Boat Bitz rudder has two for each water line - one on each side (thus 'dual-dual').

    I realize I went with a considerably lower kV motor, but my primary purpose with going to 6S isn't to increase speed - it's to increase runtime, and to decrease temps...and, if I also gain some speed, that's a "bonus" (but, again, not the primary purpose).


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  3. #3
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    Yeah that?s exactly the set up but I was going for minus the 1400 KV motor.I Do have the dual Rutter pick up as well from boat biz and I noticed that too which is always a plus..Yeah I had my eye also on the seeking 180 amp ESC but I?ve been also hearing mix reviews about it going into low voltage cut off randomly so had my hopes set on that one but I?m not too sure now...theres another one out there called flycolor 150amp and very resonable price...but as you and i know this hobby is always trial and error but just got the boat did my upgrades and 3rd run with it burned out middle of the lake got it in quick though...Funny thing is motor and esc was not hot or lipos burned at the caps and jumper wire melted off...but i might just try the 150 flycolor or seaking 180 and see how it goes watching the motor temps...but yup never ending battle to get the best of both worlds runtime and speed with minor issues lol..

  4. #4
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    The 'problem'...which, honestly, can be a 'problem' with any ESC (land, air, or water)...is the cell-count setting. Read their the posts, and you'll discover that almost everyone having the "early cutoff problem" had their ESC set to 'Auto'. Unless you're constantly changing pack types...say, on a short course truck that you run on 2S at the local indoor track, and 3S when running outdoors...ALWAYS manually set the cell-count in the ESC - if you're only running 4S, program the ESC to 4S; if you're only running 6S, program the ESC to 6S.

    No more early LVC problem.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    A 4074 motor with a kv of 1400-1600 with a OSE Raider 150 is a good combo and economic, plus the esc is easy to program and has no operating issues that I have experienced. Flycolor and Turnigy do the same unit but the OSE version comes with a cap bank and 6mm bullets fitted.
    BTW what are you guys doing with the motors you take out of the Sonicwakes? I would like one or two more as they fit our club Ltd class. I am in NZ though.
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
    BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

  6. #6
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    Jun 2020
    Location
    NY
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    If that is the case thats pretty funny but i can see that as a issue ...Cant tell you the last time i ever just plug a esc and said yup all set lol...yeah i always set my parameters and i still use the lipo beepers till this day ..and also Peter that sound like a sweet setup ...motor size i have to do research and see can size want to keep it stock in that aspect but if modifying or mounts so be it ...

  7. #7
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    Well...got my 'upgraded' SonicWake out today, for the first time. With the previously-mentioned ESC/motor combo, on 6S, she's running super. Not only that, I FINALLY flipped her...and, she flipped right-side up. Was SUPER happy...until, all of a sudden, she was dead in the water.

    Once recovered, I could hear the servo, so I knew she had power. Once I got her on the bench, I removed the canopy, and (initially) couldn't see anything wrong. Knowing she still had power, I grabbed the Tx, and tested the steering...and steering worked. Then I tested the throttle...and nothing. I was thinking this brand-new motor was fried (and, honestly, it might be...don't know, yet), and then I discovered that one of the wires between the motor & ESC was no longer soldered to its connector. Interestingly, this wasn't one of the connectors on the ESC side (which I had soldered)...it was one of the connectors on the motor side (which Leopard had soldered).

    I'll resolder the connector, and hope all is good. But, if it isn't. I'll be contacting Steve about a warranty replacement. Considering the faulty soldering job was caused by Leopard, I don't see any reason why it shouldn't be covered...again, that's IF it's no longer working. I won't know until I resolder the connection. In doing so, I'll also be checking the other two connectors, to see if they're also faulty.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  8. #8
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    Jun 2020
    Location
    NY
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    Nice!!!Yeah got my setup in as well from steve. I went with the leopard 4074 1800kv and raider 150 . Picking up a servo soon as well. Gonna do some quick laps and check her when i get some time to do so. And step down my prop. Yeah it seems these wires get so hot and keep melting these solders right off . But thats good to hear was just the solder hopefully your motor is good to go ..If i fry this setup going ZTW 200amp and lower kv ...i would of went lower kv there mostly out of stock everywhere what im looking for...So many people are starting to join and get into this hobby or just rc in general latley its been a little crazy for alot of us who have been in this for many years to get parts lmao.But well see how it goes fingers crossed lol...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jessejames View Post
    But thats good to hear was just the solder hopefully your motor is good to go.
    I'm 99.9% sure it was just a bad soldering job by Leopard. Again, if more than one bullet had "disconnected" (trying to refrain from using the word "de-soldered"), them I would have probably been in agreement with others that the motor was (probably) 'toast'...but, she's running fantastic. I've run the better part of 3 packs through her, without any motor/ESC/heat problems - everything is running cool.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
    Location
    NY
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    I?m trying to do a motor upgrade for more speed. I have an oxidean marine motor that I am going to try and retro fit into the sonicwake. Any suggestions on mounting , etc? any pointers to have this be a solid job?? I?m all ears boys.

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