need help programming twin!!!

[urbs00007]

hey guys. 3 years away from electrics and memory faded,lol. running twin tp4050 on 5s. not sure motor number but direct replacement of my leopard 4082 1600kv. ran great with the leopards and seaking 180's. need to program esc's to new tp motors. running bec and used y-connector to join esc's into reciever. red lead disconnected. running 5s a side. do i need to disconnect esc's from each other or do i connect my whole system as it will be run and program that way? or can i just plug in my reciever lead from my 2 esc's into program card and power the card with a reciever battery into the 2nd slot? pardon my ignorance, but i dont want to blow anything up. lol. thanks john

[fweasel]

Plug each ESC into your programmer individually, power up with a battery, and make your setting changes. Then, you must perform a throttle calibration on each ESC individually. Plug ESC #1 into the throttle channel on the receiver, connect a lipo, perform throttle calibration based on the model, confirm proper motor rotation, then power down. Next, plug ESC #2 into the throttle channel of the receiver, connect a lipo, perform throttle calibration based on the model, confirm proper motor rotation, then power down. Last step is to plug both ESC's back into your Y-harness with the red wire de-pinned on one side, and plug that harness into the throttle channel of the receiver. The receiver won't power on until the ESC with the active BEC gets turned on.

[Panther6834]

If the 180 programs the same way as the 120 (and, I believe it does), starting with one ESC, unplug the other ESC from the Y-harness. Then, plug one end of the cable that came with the programming card into the programming port on the ESC, and the other into the appropriate port on the programming card. Next, connect a battery to the ESC, and wait (about 5-10 seconds) until the programming card recognises the ESC. Finally, program the 4 programmable settings as you wish.

Once the first ESC is programmed, disconnect the battery, unplug the cable from the programming port, plug the other ESC back into the Y-harness, and repeat everything in the first paragraph for the second ESC. I just went through all of that on my Skater X2, and had no problems.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[urbs00007]

Plug each ESC into your programmer individually, power up with a battery, and make your setting changes. Then, you must perform a throttle calibration on each ESC individually. Plug ESC #1 into the throttle channel on the receiver, connect a lipo, perform throttle calibration based on the model, confirm proper motor rotation, then power down. Next, plug ESC #2 into the throttle channel of the receiver, connect a lipo, perform throttle calibration based on the model, confirm proper motor rotation, then power down. Last step is to plug both ESC's back into your Y-harness with the red wire de-pinned on one side, and plug that harness into the throttle channel of the receiver. The receiver won't power on until the ESC with the active BEC gets turned on.

thank you very much.

[urbs00007]

Plug each ESC into your programmer individually, power up with a battery, and make your setting changes. Then, you must perform a throttle calibration on each ESC individually. Plug ESC #1 into the throttle channel on the receiver, connect a lipo, perform throttle calibration based on the model, confirm proper motor rotation, then power down. Next, plug ESC #2 into the throttle channel of the receiver, connect a lipo, perform throttle calibration based on the model, confirm proper motor rotation, then power down. Last step is to plug both ESC's back into your Y-harness with the red wire de-pinned on one side, and plug that harness into the throttle channel of the receiver. The receiver won't power on until the ESC with the active BEC gets turned on.

last sentence. how do i power on the esc without the active bec?

[Panther6834]

last sentence. how do i power on the esc without the active bec?

Not sure why you're asking. The 180 has built-in BECs, and they're always 'active' (when receiving battery power, obviously). Unlike ESC s for land vehicles (Castle Mamba X, Tekin RX8, Hobbywing XR10, etc), as far as I'm aware, you can't "disable" the 180's BEC.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[urbs00007]

Not sure why you're asking. The 180 has built-in BECs, and they're always 'active' (when receiving battery power, obviously). Unlike ESC s for land vehicles (Castle Mamba X, Tekin RX8, Hobbywing XR10, etc), as far as I'm aware, you can't "disable" the 180's BEC.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

im using external bec. so i would connect each individual esc to reciever when calibrating, right?

[Panther6834]

im using external bec. so i would connect each individual esc to reciever when calibrating, right?

In programming, you still need to connect as previously mentioned...again, you can NOT disable the 180's BEC.

In connecting the ESCs to the receiver (for normal operation), you'll still need to user the Y-harness previously mentioned (ie. where one ESC's red wire does NOT reach the receiver). Additionally, if you're going to use external BEC(s), you'll need to cut/remove the red wire from where the external BEC(s) connects to the receiver (in other words, DON'T cut the red wire on the ESC line). This is because, once again, you cannot disable the ESC's BEC.

Alternately, if you don't want to cut any wires, Homes Hobbies makes an excellent BEC harness designed specifically for using a servo connected to an external BEC, allowing all connections to be made between receiver, servo, and BEC...all WITHOUT cutting ANY wires. It's called the "Holmes Hobbies Receiver Bypass Adapter.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/holmes-...BoCelIQAvD_BwE

It was actually designed for use in crawlers...but, will work perfectly well for what you're intending. In the product's 'overview' section, be certain to read the "NOTE", as it tells you exactly how to connect everything (except the ESC (or, in your case, ESCs) which get connected, one again, as previously described using the ProBoat Zelos Y-harness).


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[urbs00007]

In programming, you still need to connect as previously mentioned...again, you can NOT disable the 180's BEC.

In connecting the ESCs to the receiver (for normal operation), you'll still need to user the Y-harness previously mentioned (ie. where one ESC's red wire does NOT reach the receiver). Additionally, if you're going to use external BEC(s), you'll need to cut/remove the red wire from where the external BEC(s) connects to the receiver (in other words, DON'T cut the red wire on the ESC line). This is because, once again, you cannot disable the ESC's BEC.

Alternately, if you don't want to cut any wires, Homes Hobbies makes an excellent BEC harness designed specifically for using a servo connected to an external BEC, allowing all connections to be made between receiver, servo, and BEC...all WITHOUT cutting ANY wires. It's called the "Holmes Hobbies Receiver Bypass Adapter.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/holmes-...BoCelIQAvD_BwE

It was actually designed for use in crawlers...but, will work perfectly well for what you're intending. In the product's 'overview' section, be certain to read the "NOTE", as it tells you exactly how to connect everything (except the ESC (or, in your case, ESCs) which get connected, one again, as previously described using the ProBoat Zelos Y-harness).


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

thanks panther. my y adapter looks just like that adapter. when i go to calibrate esc, i just plug in each individual esc's lead into reciever and plug in main lipo pack to calibrate. when lipo is plugged in, both esc's will be powered up but only one esc will connect at a time to reciever.

[fweasel]

If you're running an external BEC (plugged into ch3 or ch4 on receiver), then both red wires need to be de-pinned on your Y harness. Only one device can send power to the receiver on the red wire at once, or you will have problems. Because your 180's have built-in BEC's, yo don't need your external BEC or the Y harness while calibrating. Just plug the ESC's into the receiver one at a time. That ESC will power the receiver for your calibration with it's built-in BEC signal. When you're done, both ESC's get plugged back into the Y-harness and BOTH red wires on the harness need to be de-pinned because you're running an external power source.

[urbs00007]

If you're running an external BEC (plugged into ch3 or ch4 on receiver), then both red wires need to be de-pinned on your Y harness. Only one device can send power to the receiver on the red wire at once, or you will have problems. Because your 180's have built-in BEC's, yo don't need your external BEC or the Y harness while calibrating. Just plug the ESC's into the receiver one at a time. That ESC will power the receiver for your calibration with it's built-in BEC signal. When you're done, both ESC's get plugged back into the Y-harness and BOTH red wires on the harness need to be de-pinned because you're running an external power source.

thanks. powering both motors and esc when i calibrate each esc individually wont harm anything right? just making sure.

[fweasel]

thanks. powering both motors and esc when i calibrate each esc individually wont harm anything right? just making sure.

I guess not, but there's no need since each ESC has it's own Lipo and on/off switch. But, as long as the receiver lead from the other ESC is not connected to the receiver, there will be no issues. I prefer not to power on an ESC connected to a motor when it's not connected to a receiver.

[urbs00007]

I guess not, but there's no need since each ESC has it's own Lipo and on/off switch. But, as long as the receiver lead from the other ESC is not connected to the receiver, there will be no issues. I prefer not to power on an ESC connected to a motor when it's not connected to a receiver.

these esc's are the older 180's. no on off. one switch for both. and esc and batteries are soldered together. I would prefer to do each esc calibration completely separate, but not going to have all those connection. oh well. thanks fweasel.

[urbs00007]

just tried to calibrate one esc. plugged battery into leads attached to bec. plugged esc plug into reciever channel 2. plugged on-off swith into battery slot in reciever. pulled full throttle on transmitter (graupner x-4s) turned on switch to reciever. motor turned full power. what did I do wrong?

[fweasel]

If your ESC has a built-in BEC, do not power up your external BEC when the ESC is connected to the receiver w/o the de-pinned y harness. Only one source of power connected to the receiver at a time.

As for the calibration procedure, is the transmitter properly bound to this receiver? Are your throttle trims set to 0? Is the throttle reverse switch in the proper position?

[urbs00007]

got it!! was using both bec's. ughh. all set. thanks man.

[fweasel]

Sure thing. Good luck!