Thanks but this is well out of my comfort zone I am a cat and hydro guy I only have 2 monos and 1.5 Ecos, both my monos are stepped and built old school with flexies and struts.
Current boats use fairly long straight wire drives with center bearings, to place the motor down in the step and the prop hub slightly above the table, about 1.5mm i think. this small loss of efficiency from the down thrust is countered by being able to move the CoG back a little we start at 28% rather than the more common 30% and the lighter drive saves weight, which helps efficiency too. Low lift props are a requirement, Octuras won't work, everyone is using CNC props with low blade area shapes based off the Graupner carbons. TP are alloy Graupner clones, Tenshock are modded alloy Graupners and slightly better, Dr Props have gone their own way but you can see the Graupner influence.
Don't expect to get it right first time, I know experianced Mono racers that hot glue in the shaft on first build with a new hull, and only glue it in properly after testing.
The motor size and cooling can matters, everyone uses long 28/29mm motors rather than short 36mm motors, to bring the shaft down low. There is a difference in the OD of cooling cans too, Lehner, TP or TFL are all on the slim side whereas a leopard and some generic coolers would put the shaft 1 mm or more higher, not sure if HRC make cans in this size or not, but they are really fat and would raise it up at least a couple of mm. Where you place the can makes a difference too, if the can isn't full length, slide it to the back and you can get the angle a little lower.
This looks like a fun running setup to me, an Eco ish hull, but Ecos are submerged drive so that would be out, and I can't imagine a flat bottomed unstepped mono being competitive in the mono classes. I do know a couple of people that have put surface drives on Ecos and it can make a very fun boat.
Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.
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