The motor mount is backed with aluminum sandwiched between FG. Hard to tell how thick the aluminum is but my guess would be about 4mm.
IMPBA 20481S D-12
Last edited by Darin Jordan; 01-28-2009 at 05:51 PM.
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
I think I'm going to throw up...
I just shot a coat of clear on and the white paint crinkled all to hell... SAME freaking process I always use, but there it is...
I'm going to set this aside for a few days to get hard, then start stipping off the white and start over with that...
It was that, or just freaking throw it on the floor and CRUSH and STOMP the heck out of it!
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Krylon clear can be sprayed over Krylon colors. What paint brands did you use?
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
I feel ya man....mine did the same in a couple of spots...I thought maybe I did something wrong. Then I thought ....this boat is going to be getting lots of battle scars anyway...the heck with it!
The worst is under the cockpit...rock on dude!
Darin, been there, I understand your frustration. Only one remedy...remove all paint!!!!
The prevoius problems would have only been exagreated by the clear coat...dries very fast and no allowance for escaping gases from the previous paint problems
Douggie
Last edited by Flying Scotsman; 01-28-2009 at 10:16 PM.
does ose sell lipos?
whats a recommended power source for the ul-1?
thanx
I'm pretty sure Duplicolor makes a clear acrylic enamel AND a clear lacquer. If you used the lacquer, it would probably eat the Krylon enamel. Might want to check that. My paints are at my warehouse and I don't have a chance to check that today. Also, Duplicolor colors come in lacquer (the car coded touchups) and the larger cans of acrylic enamel. I use the enamel all the way through on my paint jobs. I'm no expert though. I KNOW how frustrating it can be to have the bottom coat wrinkle! Been there. It's AWFUL!
Back in the 'olden days' when us old timey model airplane builders actually built and covered airplanes with silk and dope, it was almost impossible to get light colors to cover well. Yellow was the worst but white was no picnic either. The SECRET (shhhh) is to put on a coat of silver or aluminum first! Then the light colors will cover really well! Tadaaa!
I run two 2S Flightpower 25C 5000's. Great setup. I don't think Steven (OSE) sells lipos. Right now, Towerhobbies is selling the Flightpowers at dealer cost! (I know, I'm a dealer and getting hosed over by Tower!) There is a new series of Flightpower lipos coming out so I guess they're selling off the original series. These are absolutely incredibly good lipos! You can't go wrong at the current prices at Tower. I believe the 2S 25C 5000's are going for $89.99. Normally $119.99! Get 'em while they got 'em. You won't get any cheaper for a quality lipo. Sure, you can get the Zippy's from Hobby City but they ARE NOT as good a battery and with shipping won't be that cheap... AND if you have a problem, you gotta send 'em back to China.... etc. etc. etc.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWPB4&P=7
For what its worth, I got very frustrated spraying the new gen Krylon over prepared gelcoat and started using Testors Enamel and Model Masters High Gloss Clearcoat with very good results, Still have to let it marinate ( for lack of a better word) based on the instructions. Clearly, for abs or whatever the manufactures call plastic these days, Fusion is still a great product.
Sailr,
That brings back fond memories....clear dope and silkspan...control-line... Sterling Ringmasters, Top Flight products..
Oh, I thought it was the Tamiya paint you liked. I bought one of those tiny little million dollar spray cans and didn't like it worth a hoot! ;-) Since the hatch is abs plastic, I thought maybe the Krylon would work good. The UL-1 is painted, not gelcoat. Might wanta think of that.
Mike, go easy when you clearcoat the decals I made for you. Too heavy and it will run the colors in the decal. Shoulda told ya that earlier!
No, not Tamiya. I think that is for lexan. Yes, MM works over Krylon. The Fusion clear is more of a satin finish. If you want bright , use MM.
Tamiya make different paints for different surfaces. The TS series is what would be used for most of our applications, a synthetic lacquer. Yes, they are expensive but are of a very high quality. They have a specific paint for Lexan materials.
The TS series is great because you can apply other paint types over the painted surface. Plus, no need for a clear coat which makes it easy to fix if you damage the paint suface.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/cat...?main-id=60|80
Douggie
Yep, gelcoat should not be harmed but any spray paint. I thoought these were gelcoat but sounds more like painted. Is this true?
Darin, fantasic paint scheem! It is very sharp man. Glad your boats don't run as good as they look! :)
Thanks Jeff... I think it's paint... After the initial debocal with the white, I stripped it off completely, using Citri-strip, and it even took the red paint off... was a mess.
But, now, it's back in white, has the clearcoat on, and is mostly reassembled. I'm just waiting to get a water jacket for the motor.
Will be interested to see how it performs... Hopefully at least as good as it looks...
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Darin, I had to do the same procedure on a painted hull and it was a mess. Every other fix I tried without removing the paint just compounding the problems.
I trust that all goes well with the next painting procedure.
The original UL-1 suface is painted fireglass
Douggie
Here is my advice to anyone wishing to customize the paint on one of these... buy a color you like, and add lots of decals/graphics... Much simpler!
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
It remains to be seen if my paint is gonna hold up to tape! All I painted was the hatch and cowl. I'm in the same boat as you...waiting for a water jacket. I gave up on the POS one that comes on the boat. Also had to do your major surgery on the right sponson where the fin bolts on. Mine came with the sponson pretty badly split open already. Just finished that job. I'm going to use the foam you suggested (it just arrived today) and pour it in several places in the boat. I just don't like how flimsy the hull is. Now I'm trying to find the little 1 oz medicine cups to measure that stuff. No luck at Walgreens!
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