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Thread: UL-1 Performance and Modification: A Thread Summary

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    Default UL-1 Performance and Modification: A Thread Summary

    Selective Quotes From Threads Pertinent To The Modification And Performance of The UL-1: As of Mar 14, 2009

    For someone who just bought a UL-1, like me, you may find this summary useful before launching the boat. (Footnote at beginning of paragraph).


    Raptor327: M445 @ 45mph. M645 and 3/16" deeper on the strut @ 52mph. Modified 2047 and a 1/2" deep tape air dam in the tunnel @ 59mph. Same prop and air dam, 3/32" deeper on the strut @ 65.7mph/64mph. M645 @ 50's with the same air dam and strut setting.

    Fluid: Air Dams - Use a strip of foam from a pool noodle, 1/2" on a side and long enough to fit across the tunnel. I Stick it down by covering it with a strip or two of 2" clear packing tape - works great. Too, it doesn't fold back at speed like the tape dams will, yet it is flexible if you hit something with it.

    Darin Jordan: Water Jacket Installation. (See Sticky)

    Fluid: Fixing Water Jacket:
    - Remove the motor from the hull and unplug the wires and water lines.
    - Shoot some WD-40 or similar lube into the inlet tube, enough to coat all the motor housing that's inside the jacket. Don't be stingy.
    - Loosen the end rings no more than two turns and put a thin oil on the threads where they enter the end rings.
    - Tighten the end rings by hand until tight. Make certain that the water inlets are positioned correctly.
    - Wipe off any oil from the motor and jacket.
    - Check for leaks by blowing into one of the inlets with the other inlet plugged. There should be no sound of air passing by the threads.
    - Reinstall the motor, wiring and cooling lines.
    The small rear winglets are held on with a thin strip of double sided tape. When mine arrived they were also held down with strips of regular clear tape, but I removed those. That made the winglets too easy to remove or to come off on the water. I suggest leaving the outside factory tape in place and forgetting about them.
    Be sure to have the correct metric tools, esp. Allen wrenches.

    Fluid: My TP5000s weigh 9 ounces each, and I have no problems getting up on plane. Brian wasn't using light weight cells at the SAWs and his never subed. I suspect that the problem most guys are having is with the strut setting. Hydros are not like monos...
    The bottom of my strut came 7/8" below the hull and angled at most 1 degree down at the prop end. If you are having trouble getting on plane you can simply flatten the strut. You do not want to angle the strut any more or you'll never get on plane! A flat strut is the default setting; if the bow flies then angle it down a bit at the prop end. It won't take much. If the boat runs too hard on the water raise the strut 1/8". Several guys have e-mailed me about problems getting up on plane, and in every case a minor strut adjustment was all it took regardless of the packs used.
    Different props can cause trouble getting on plane too. Screw on a lifting prop combined with too much strut angle and you'll never get on plane. If you are using a lifting prop, flatten the strut. You may even need to run the strut up a degree at the prop end. "Best" all-around prop may be an m445 or K45. It will take some additional testing to find out for certain. The x442 is pretty small - doubt it has enough blade area to load the motor enough.
    BTW all strut adjustments must be done on a flat surface like a table. The hydro should rest on the sponsons and the strut. The strut angle will be between the bottom of the strut and the tabletop. Don't try to do it "by eye", it won't work.

    Fluid: The stock prop has worked well with good speed and handling, but I wanted to try the Graupner K45 to see how it effected handling and speed. Knowing it would give higher speeds than the stock prop I lowered the strut to 1" with about 1 degree of down angle at the prop end. The two 2S/5000mAh TP packs put the CG 2.7" behind the sponsons; I heated them up to ~90F before running the boat.
    The hydro had no problem getting on plane with the 'heavy' packs, I simply gave it full throttle and up it jumped. (Trying to ease into the throttle just makes the model submerge.) The K45 really yanked it out of the hole and top speed was attained quickly. I was running on 3/4" chop but the boat was stable as it skipped across the waves at full tilt. Low/mid-40s on rough water. The larger prop did seen to widen the turning radius a few feet versus the stock prop.
    I thoroughly enjoyed the 2-3 minutes I ran the model, and the temperatures afterward were around 100F on the motor, ESC and cells.

    Grimracer: the distance between the back of the strut and the front of the drive dog should be one dia of the shaft (0.187").

    Fluid: Most will get plenty of speed from prop, CG changes, and minor strut adjustments.

    Fluid: The boat is not nose heavy when using a more aggressive prop than the factory one. With two 2S/5000mAh TP the CG is about 2.7" behind the sponsons. My personal LSH and P Sport hulls have the CG within 1.5" or less of the sponsons to help keep the boat on the water at speed. The UL-1 has so much lifting area that I believe that we can use the heaviest cells we can fit to keep the boat on the water. Air dams and lead weights are cheaper means of preventing blow-overs. I may try 4S2P setup; TP 3300s will fit cross-wise in the hull, so I can move the CG forward with a single 4S1P pack - or use two for 4S2P and more ballast.

    Fluid: Waterproofing Rcvr - Take off the receiver case and spray board with CorrosionX, then reassemble.

    Properchopper/UB-Hauled: M445. The strut at zero, 2S Elite 35C 5000's - violently fast; almost too much to handle. I adjusted the strut for a little down force. One or two throttle pulls got 'er up. Added a small air dam & it was simply ripping up the water. Temps were minimal after 2-3 minute runs. No water leaks. I put a paper towel (Jay). My strut is 1 1/16 " from the bottom of the hull to the bottom of the strut & is angled down at the back @ 5 deg.

    Ray: To prevent Submarining - Very common with sport hydro's that have the CG up front. Trick - blip the throttle just enough to raise the front end and let off. Once the nose drops down and starts to pop back up nail the throttle and the hydro will jump up on plain.

    Tunfin Reinforcement:
    -Properchopper: The area where the fin is located is just as thin as the rest of the hull and the fin bracket reinforcing plate inside the hull has a very small footprint. With the lateral leverage imparted on the fin at high cornering speeds or an unfortunate blower like mine, this is likely to be an issue. My plan to fix this on mine is to fill the hole with epoxy or resin/microballoons. Then attach the sheet aluminum reinforcing plate outside the hull, probably with 3M 5200 slow cure {it's really strong and adheres better than anything I know of}. Then mount & either tack-weld or JB the fin bracket on the plate. The bracket also will still screw into the inside-the hull-plate which will be epoxied in to fill the hole. I'd advise anyone who is going to push this boat hard make an outside-the-hull reinforcing plate like mine.
    More reinforcement? I drilled a hole in the inside of the sponson; Mixed up some 30 min. epoxy thinned with alcohol & poured it in. Held the boat at various angles to let the epoxy flow all around & let it set. Small abs patch will be next. How did you attach the aluminum to the hull, JB? First I JB'd the broken piece in & let it cure overnight . Then I laid play-dough on the back of the plate, pushed in place to make an impression of the fin bracket bolt holes & drilled them out. Then scuffed up the boat & the reinforcing bracket & JB'd it in place with clamps. Let it dry overnight & then faired the bracket to the sponson surface with various abrasives. Then bolted on the fin bracket with small "spot welds" of JB to the plate to keep it strong but allow removal if needed for other fins.
    -Ken Haines: Turn fin Reinforcement (see RRR Forum)
    -Longballlumber: Not only do you want to increase the surface area that is bonding to the sponson transom, but you want to also tie in the sponson transom and the sponson ride pad. The intersection of the sponson transom (surface that the turn fin bracket is mounted on) and the sponson rid pad are at a 90 degree angle, you want to try and form a fillet or a chamfer in that corner that will tie the 2 surfaces together and make it much stronger.

    Grimracer: Strut bushing is replaceable.

    Fluid: You can build the boat to have the correct amount of lift and down force - But the amount of force changes with the speed, and a boat that has optimum aerodynamics at 40 mph probably won't have them at 65 mph. The air dam - or tunnel spoiler - or turbulator - interrupts the airflow in the tunnel, "spoiling" some of the lift produced. It adds drag of course - virtually all aerodynamic add-ons do - but the end result is higher speeds because the boat stays on the water. It is a cheap and easy mod with excellent results.

    10gauge: Battery Space: 170mm (L); 28mm (H) front; 45mm (H) motor.

    Darin Jordan: Race Prep Blueprint (See Sticky)

    Mike Martin: Flotation/Rigidity - Remove motor; drill 3/4" hole each side of tub wall toward front; pour 4-6oz TOTAL urethane foam mix 1 side @ a time; shake toward front; reinstall motor. (Don't use spray foam). <uscomposites.com> (561) 588-1001 $30.00

    Grimracer: COG at 3 to 3 1/4" back from the sponson backs. Typically, COG around center of back of turn fin. Reason my turn fin design is swept - better turning on a wider COG range. The bottom of the rudder can make lift - sharpen rudder.
    Last edited by 10gauge; 03-14-2009 at 02:36 PM. Reason: Update
    Mean Machine Cat: 9XL, 4S2P, CC120, M545 (50mph) -- DF22 Hydro: 8L, 3S1P/4500, CC120, x637 (49mph) -- M-1 SuperCat: 1521/1Y, 6S2P, CC240, x447 (61mph) -- SV27 Mono: stock setup, 14-cell/4200, x642 (42mph) -- Micro Scat Cat: 28-3600, 3S1P/2100, Turnigy 60, x430 (41mph)

  2. #2
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    Very Nice 10gauge!!!

    Can you go through the SV & BJ Forums and do the same?
    There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."

  3. #3
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    Awesome post dude!

    One question...am I the only one testing the Aquacraft recommended Grim Racer Props? How are they comparing and what is the equivalent "M" prop for the below GR's.

    40 x 52 3-blade metal,
    L38 x 55 Lifter,
    L40 x 57 3 blade metal

    Thanks,

    Crash

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    Good Job Bro ! Keeps me from navigating through alll the posts to see what's been tried & what results are achieved.
    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
    2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
    '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

  5. #5
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    Thanks to everyone who has contributed to the UL-1 threads! I will try to periodically add relevant information as it is posted.
    Mean Machine Cat: 9XL, 4S2P, CC120, M545 (50mph) -- DF22 Hydro: 8L, 3S1P/4500, CC120, x637 (49mph) -- M-1 SuperCat: 1521/1Y, 6S2P, CC240, x447 (61mph) -- SV27 Mono: stock setup, 14-cell/4200, x642 (42mph) -- Micro Scat Cat: 28-3600, 3S1P/2100, Turnigy 60, x430 (41mph)

  6. #6
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    Grimracer has spoken: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=6341

    Quote Originally Posted by Grimracer View Post
    racers,

    every time we start talking handling Brians post comes back regarding his SAW run..

    DO NOT EXPECT YOUR BOAT TO HEAT RACE AT THAT SET UP.. and please do not START THERE. I personly have NEVER ran the strut that deep.. as I go faster I might but to set the boat.. never..

    Start with the strut set where its at from the factory.. if you want to change it (and I recomend it depending on the prop) do it after the first few runs.

    Starters.

    Set the strut at 15/16"
    Set the strut flat on the setup board, I see you have the L40x57/3. Better yet lets start with the 40x52/3.. Just a note.. the L38x55 - 63 and the new L40x57/3 were designed around 0 strut angle.. having said this you MIGHT? have to cup slighty to remove some lift.
    Round or shapren the bottom of the rudder
    Set the turn fin so the top break is parrell to the foot print with your 15/16" strut height. My setup board has marker lines on the side of it for this.

    Test and report.

    As a side not.. I do not like turn fins that enter the water at an angle.. and.. truth is that is why the fin is the way it is. its a smaller version of my US-1 Ninja fin with a slight change to the LE..

    Grim

  7. #7
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    Default Plumbing Mod

    Here is little mod I did today. I don't see a need for a long transom tube or one that points up...I won't be able to see the discharge stream anyway. This thing is moving too fast... with too much rooster tail.

    I added the alum tubing to help with cooling and flow and moved the ESC forward to add a little badly needed ESC wire length to the battery connections. Now I can get the deans off the GPS window and a get better seal on the hatch too. I also moved the receiver because it was in the way of the tubing...I also didn't care for the location. I hope this small move doesn't affect reception? The down side to moving the ESC forward is I can not move my battery pack on that side all the way back....only the port side can be slide back....shouldn't be an issue for my set up though.

    Note...there is NOT any support between the glass tub and transom where the water inlet/outlets are....I hope there is some behind the rudder. RightTurnOnly cracked his transom and sponson after he ran aground yesterday....exactly why I made my rudder swing up through a shear pin...which it did when I hit a pile of floating debris.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Get that rooster tail flatter. It makes a difference.

    Sounds like you two need a better pond! Turtles, debris, what's next?!

    Andy
    Spektrum Development Team

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    Has anyone tried an Octura Y537/3 prop?

    Douggie

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    Revised thread summary to include up to March 14, 2009.
    Mean Machine Cat: 9XL, 4S2P, CC120, M545 (50mph) -- DF22 Hydro: 8L, 3S1P/4500, CC120, x637 (49mph) -- M-1 SuperCat: 1521/1Y, 6S2P, CC240, x447 (61mph) -- SV27 Mono: stock setup, 14-cell/4200, x642 (42mph) -- Micro Scat Cat: 28-3600, 3S1P/2100, Turnigy 60, x430 (41mph)

  11. #11
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    was looking at one of these, can you tell me how they compare to other hydros this size??

    Do you keep the motor or replace, what other mods are necessary? What are your speeds with this hull.


    Curt

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    I would assume that the UL-1 is optimized to run stock in the low 40 mph range. Above that is where modifications are warranted - prop, air dam, strut and COG tweaking, turn fin reinforcement, good LiPos, canard wings, etc. Higher the speed, higher the risk of potential failure.

    I bought one to have a RTR model at all times, to explore the realm of hydros, and have a reference level to compare all my builds. It will be another month until I can put it in the water for testing for the first time due to the Northeast thaw.
    Mean Machine Cat: 9XL, 4S2P, CC120, M545 (50mph) -- DF22 Hydro: 8L, 3S1P/4500, CC120, x637 (49mph) -- M-1 SuperCat: 1521/1Y, 6S2P, CC240, x447 (61mph) -- SV27 Mono: stock setup, 14-cell/4200, x642 (42mph) -- Micro Scat Cat: 28-3600, 3S1P/2100, Turnigy 60, x430 (41mph)

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    I had no idea it was a new product. I think I will watch it through spring and see how others rate it + amd - before investing. I like the looks of it better than some of the other 27 inch hydros though.

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    Hello, my name is Jef. Living in a small country Belgium in Europe. Please may I ask you for some explanation concerning UL1 turnfun settings.

    Quote one of Grimracers posts.
    Starters.

    Set the strut at 15/16"
    Set the strut flat on the setup board, I see you have the L40x57/3. Better yet lets start with the 40x52/3.. Just a note.. the L38x55 - 63 and the new L40x57/3 were designed around 0 strut angle.. having said this you MIGHT? have to cup slighty to remove some lift.
    Round or shapren the bottom of the rudder
    [B]Set the turn fin so the top break is parrell to the foot print with your 15/16" strut height. My setup board has marker lines on the side of it for this.[/B]Unquote.

    Sorry, but I don't understand the part in BOLD.
    Please may I ask you to clarify or to make a small (even hand made) drawing or a picture so that I can handle as requested.
    Thanks for your reply.
    Best regards

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    Quote Originally Posted by van aelst jozef View Post
    Sorry, but I don't understand the part in BOLD.
    Please may I ask you to clarify or to make a small (even hand made) drawing or a picture so that I can handle as requested.
    Thanks for your reply.
    Best regards
    Check BEND (top break) on turn fin against setup board or table's edge with hull resting on bottom of strut and back edges of sponsons. As you can see my fin is angle upward, but he states it needs to be level or parallel with set up board or table.
    Last edited by detox; 11-13-2009 at 03:57 PM.

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    Default Turnfin

    Detox, thanks. Appreciate you reply.
    Now , I have got it.

    Greetings.

    Jef.

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    I am new and going through this and was wondering as far as setup boards go I know you can use a flat table but how does it work? do you set the boat flat on the table cause it will rest on the turn fin and front portion of the boat... I guess these are all newbie questions but I had to ask.

    thanks

  18. #18
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    Rest the hydro in the corner so that the turn fin dangles to the side and the strut rests on the edge and the prop dangles away from the edge. This way your 2 sponsons and the bottom of the strut lay flat on the surface.
    Mean Machine Cat: 9XL, 4S2P, CC120, M545 (50mph) -- DF22 Hydro: 8L, 3S1P/4500, CC120, x637 (49mph) -- M-1 SuperCat: 1521/1Y, 6S2P, CC240, x447 (61mph) -- SV27 Mono: stock setup, 14-cell/4200, x642 (42mph) -- Micro Scat Cat: 28-3600, 3S1P/2100, Turnigy 60, x430 (41mph)

  19. #19
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    Looks like I'm a bit late to the party :) I just purchased a UL-1 about a month ago to run with my friend's UL-19. We have a nice big area to run in that is a bit rough...running the Grim Racer 40x57 prop I'm getting up to 46mph but at that speed the boat is bouncing around all over the place whereas the UL-19 is super smooth. The UL-19 doesn't really start to have problems until they drop a 6s battery in. What can I do to calm this boat down and make it competitive? From what I'm reading it sounds like an air dam is the way to go. I did try adding a canard to the front with a slight down angle...didn't help. Thanks!

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