I like your little green stators! Ha ha
I like your little green stators! Ha ha
Yeah, I had a friend make those for me. Thanks.
Still trying to understand. When we're looking at the lead end of the motor. Each of your bundles crosses to their next slot location twice. How is that three turns? It feels like two turns.
I'll make another drawing of the Dynomite 2K motor if I can understand that. Really hard to follow your sketch. Lot going on there. The AQ motor makes perfect sense. Just the turn counts has me scratching my head.
Any chance of doing another Cat5 tutorial on that weird wind? Would the earth shatter if we wound a Dynamite motor all CCW? Thing there is any advantage either way?
Full of questions. Sorry Don.
Noisy person
Terry-
Your diagram is a 2T not a 3T ( also wire code need a S3 and a F3)
Look at the pictures in Don's posts #23 -#25 and #27
Their are three wires in each slot not two.
Larry
Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
I was duplicating the sketch from post 19. Good catch on the labeling Larry.
In my head the bundle goes end to end through the stator three times on Don's cat 5 sample but doesn't form three full loops. On the exit of the third pass it goes to the next coil (3 slots over). Feels very much like a 2.75 turn motor. Maybe Don can fix my head.
18n6p - 2 turn rev.JPG
Noisy person
Damn, good call Larry.
Terry, this is so hard to do with pictures and words. In person, I would have ya'll doing this in no time at all. I like your drawings cause it keeps things in order better than my hand drawn ones. But do another one and stretch it out, left to right more, so it's not so bunched up.
A turn will not be able to "close" a complete loop around the teeth. The number of times a single strand (if we were using a single strand instead of a bundle) goes through a slot, around the bottom of the teeth, then back up and out of that coil, is considered a turn.
DSC_0002.jpg
this is what you would call three turns.
Then you skip over to the next coil, on that same leg and with that same wire, then do it one more time for an 18 slot stator.
The wire on the "end turns" does absolutely nothing for the motor. NOTHING so forget about them. The only wire that matters is what is running through the slots.
In my head the bundle goes end to end through the stator three times on Don's cat 5 sample but doesn't form three full loops. On the exit of the third pass it goes to the next coil (3 slots over). Feels very much like a 2.75 turn motor. Maybe Don can fix my head.
Thats right Terry. end to end three times, BUT DOES NOT CLOSE UP THE LAST LOOP. It don't have to, so forget about that. How many times it goes through the slots is what determines the turn count.
" Any chance of doing another Cat5 tutorial on that weird wind? Would the earth shatter if we wound a Dynamite motor all CCW? Thing there is any advantage either way? "
Yes I can do that but..... ya need to get the simple one first!
Winding it all CCW would be OK. Or doing it all CW would be ok. That would just make the motor run in the other direction, switch any two leads and your back running the other way again. CW or CCW the motor doesn't care, as long as they are all the same, on this particular wind.
Like I said before. I have done the same exact DYNM3831 motor, both ways and didn't see any difference. DO IT THE SIMPLER WAY FIRST!
Terry -
I just noticed something else in your diagram.
Your #2 wire should start in the slot to the left of #1 - (not the right)
#3 would then start to the left of #2
The way you have it your pairs will not match up to be joined together.
S1 - S2 ------- S3 - F1 --------- F2 - F3
Just change your #3 wires to #1 and your #1 wires to #3
Larry
Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
Larry,
It will still work doing it that way. I actually was going to mention in my description that you could put #2 on the left of #1, or on the right. It really doesn't matter, just when you go to twist them together, get any two that are side by side.
And you could just renumber Terry's wire like mine. The wire is still in the same place. Or do away with the numbers completely. I was using them to try and help keep track of what is going on.
This type of wind is not particular about the termination as long as you get any two that are beside each other. Not so with some other winds, they require 1S- 2F, 2S-3F, 3S-1F, and wont run any other way.
Don, this is way easier in the real world. I didn't have any cat5. I did have some other wire laying around that was a bit larger. I was able to blow threw a 2 turn full phase in 2 minutes based on your drawings and descriptions. So it's work'n. It's super NOT complicated in the real world.
Noisy person
Don, so all that wire that cross the stator to get to the next coil is more or less dead weight.
New drawing attached. See if it's easier to read. Should I do a 3 turn too or do we all feel it's kinda just one more run through the slots and we can all follow that?
18n6p - 2 turn rev 2.jpg
Noisy person
That's right Terry, any wire not in the slots does nothing. My understanding is that if it's not against the steel, or against another strand, that is against the steel, you get no benefit from it.
That's just a part of the DISTRIBUTED wind that sux. But now on the CONCENTRATED wind, the end turns are always tight against the steel and DO add something to the fire.
Look at pics of outrunner stators. That's what's called concentrated winding. Each coil has it's own chunk of steel with no breaks in it like our motors have. And the coils don't overlap each other.
All of our normal motors are the distributed type. There are some concentrated inrunners but they are rare and are usually made for a specific task. Buggies and truggies like them cause the cog less.
OH I forgot,
Yes I like that drawing better. Spreads it out more so it's not so bunched up. Easier to read.
OH I forgot,
Yes I like that drawing better. Spreads it out more so it's not so bunched up. Easier to read.
I don't think that we need a three turn drawing. If ya can't figure out that you just add more turns...to get more turns.... ya probably ought to take up knitting.
DSC_0006.jpg
There Terry, a shot of the bottom side shows all three turns making a complete loop.
Just ordered some 200c magnet wire. I have a number of motors I can practice this process on. Great stuff so far Don.
I'll make that goofy CW/CCW drawing when you get to it.
Noisy person
I just noticed something by looking at the last picture for a little.
There are three DEAD teeth! In between each set of coils, there is one tooth with no wire around it. I never noticed that before and thought that all of them were being used.
I'll have to do a WYE next and we'll see if it ends up the same way. I don't think it does. The Y starts off totally different too.
DSC_0001.jpg
There ya go Terry. Your doing so good I think you'll be able to get it from this limited drawing.
In STS to the right then up,were going CCW here, do one more turn in the same coil and out the top, sts to the right and back in. notice now that you go CW back to the up side of the first coil and through. That makes the third pass through that slot and I'm thinking that's the third turn for the first coil, well it's half of it, we'll get the other half on the downward pass on the third coil of this set. Now finish the second turn of the second coil, (note that there will be 6 coils total, in a way, for each leg in this one) down and out the bottom, sts to the right again and make another CCW coil which finishes the third pass on the second coil and finishes up with the second pass of the third coil!! Holy crap, I'm getting dizzy............... CW again etc etc You end up with the next to last pass going in at the very start slot where there are only two passes through it and the lead is sticking out. That next to last pass gets us the third pass on the first coil on the starting side. Then continuing CW, sts and go up and out for the finish.
I TOLD YOU IT WAS DIFFICULT!!
And remember that when your drawing it, the wire will run off the edge of the flat stator to the right, and will go on to the first three slots on the left, then will come back to the last three slots on the right.
Well Terry, that 200c wire is the best, but if you haven't mastered the hot ass LYE thing, you wont be able to use it. There's no other simple way to get the insulation off!
Yes Larry it does. I did that for a little while just trying to come up with something besides the Lye, that wasn't so dangerous and painful.
The antifreeze will work but it's so danged slow.
OK good. The lye makes it all a lot easier to do. Especially when we do a Wye bundle.
Terry, can you understand the CW/CCW drawing and text?
The drawing looks simple enough when there is just one leg on it. But add the other two legs, and holy ship it's a mess!
The text will have you pulling your hair out real quick, unless you kinda know what's going on. But by following the drawing with a finger, you'll see it just two turns one way, then two the other way, then do it again a few times until you run out of slots.
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