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Thread: Zonda new prop performance

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
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    Default Zonda new prop performance

    Today I got a chance to run the 44mm de-tounged cnc's I got from OSE and I need your opinions. Temps were good with the exception of one of the cap packs. It was at about 140 degrees when I got done. Is that too hot? Coincidentally, that cap pack is on the same motor that 'clicks' harder than the other one when spun by hand. Don't know if that has anything to do with anything.

    I only managed to get one more MPH out of these props than with the stock 40mm's. Plus, at mid 50's it felt like it was going to take flight at any minute. Do these props tend to lift the nose more? Suggestions?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Apr 2007
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    AZ
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    Default

    De-tongued props have less lift, so it is not uncommon to see the boat become more flighty depending on the original prop.

    It’s not possible to say much about the temps without knowing the run time and how the boat was run - WOT most of the time, lots of on/off throttle, or lots of part throttle running. And what exactly does “temps are good” mean when 140* worries you?


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  3. #3
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    Feb 2008
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    I don't know what ESC you have or what caps it uses, but good caps are rated to 105c (225f), so if it uses good caps it wouldn't be overly worrying to me in the short term with the ESCs and caps I use, but caps do have a finite lifespan and the warmer they run the shorter that is, so long term I do try to keep all my electrics under 60c (140f).

    Caps have little mass and heat up fast with more power or worse batteries, so it shows you don't have much overhead for either left. It is natural for the inside motor, ESC, and battery of a twin to heat up more than the outside, if you are running ovals or otherwise primarily turning in one direction more is it the cap on the ESC supplying the motor on the inside of the more popular turn that is getting hotter? Do a run of figure 8s so you know you have been driving evenly and check temps again. If you still have one being much hotter than the other, then I would suspect that the battery supplying the one with the hot caps has a higher internal resistance, either being batter from the factory, or may be on it's way out.

    You can lower cap temperature by shortening battery/ESC leads if you have room, or adding more caps, as well as by propping down and using more capable batteries.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    TN
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    De-tongued props have less lift, so it is not uncommon to see the boat become more flighty depending on the original prop.

    It’s not possible to say much about the temps without knowing the run time and how the boat was run - WOT most of the time, lots of on/off throttle, or lots of part throttle running. And what exactly does “temps are good” mean when 140* worries you?


    .
    Motor and ESC temps were in the 80-90F range. Should I lower the stinger's slightly to counteract the reduced prop lift?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
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    TN
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    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    I don't know what ESC you have or what caps it uses, but good caps are rated to 105c (225f), so if it uses good caps it wouldn't be overly worrying to me in the short term with the ESCs and caps I use, but caps do have a finite lifespan and the warmer they run the shorter that is, so long term I do try to keep all my electrics under 60c (140f).

    Caps have little mass and heat up fast with more power or worse batteries, so it shows you don't have much overhead for either left. It is natural for the inside motor, ESC, and battery of a twin to heat up more than the outside, if you are running ovals or otherwise primarily turning in one direction more is it the cap on the ESC supplying the motor on the inside of the more popular turn that is getting hotter? Do a run of figure 8s so you know you have been driving evenly and check temps again. If you still have one being much hotter than the other, then I would suspect that the battery supplying the one with the hot caps has a higher internal resistance, either being batter from the factory, or may be on it's way out.

    You can lower cap temperature by shortening battery/ESC leads if you have room, or adding more caps, as well as by propping down and using more capable batteries.


    The ESC's are Seaking 120a. I have no idea if the caps are decent or not. Thanks for the info.

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