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Thread: Looking for suggestions on best ways to hold batteries in place

  1. #1
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    Default Looking for suggestions on best ways to hold batteries in place

    I was trying to find the thread I originally read about this in, but can't seem to find it. Anyway, I recall someone who had created a thread where his boat flipped (more like did some aerial acrobatics), and, when it landed, his batteries came loose, smashing though the hull. Unfortunately, he hadn't used all 3 straps...only the middle & rear...and even those he admitted were loose.

    Although the SonicWake is my first FE, and the only water she's seen is the bathtub (to check for leaks), I do plan on getting her in the lake this afternoon, or tomorrow. Not wanting my batteries to go flying, I devised a way that I think should do an excellent job in keeping them in place...but, I wanted to run my idea past those more familiar with the SonicWake, and FEs in-general.
    Due to the length of the packs, they can only be strapped in using two straps, thus allowing them to be positioned forward/rearward on the tray. Unfortunately, there's the possibility that they could side forward/rearward, as ProBoat didn't think to include any sort of blocks to prevent movement. So, what I did was take the "sheet" of styrofoam from the end of the box (the 5/16" thick sheet that 'covers' the Tx), and cut it into 45mm strips (the width of the battery packs). Next, I cut two pieces equal to the battery length, covered the ends in packing tape, then wrapped the length in packing tape. These are visible on each side of the batteries, preventing them from side-to-side movement. For the front, I cut three pieces equal to the width of the battery tray & width of the batteries, then taped them together, and wrapped them similar to the first two pieces.

    Now, if anyone at ProBoat/Horizon Hobby is reading this and/or if anyone reading this knows someone at ProBoat/Horizon Hobby that what I'm about to say can be passed onto, please, take note: As 2S & 3S packs are, essentially, standardized in length (I'm NOT saying they "are standardized", only "essentially standardized"), it would be helpful if 3 blocks were included, so as to prevent the packs from sliding/moving. One block would be thick enough to place in front of, or behind, the batteries, so as to have the packs all the way forward, or all the way rearward. The other two blocks would be half as thick, so as to place the battery packs in the middle of the tray. Whichever is used, all three straps would be used, and the batteries would be prevented from moving.

    I realize that, using the ultra-soft styrofoam I'm currently using isn't the best solution, especially as it's not very heat-resistant. For a long-term solution, I'm leaning towards closed-cell foam, which not only has a higher heat-resistance, but is also more firm, and will hold its shape much better. So...getting back to what I did (which should be only temporary, until I can come up with a better long-term solution)...what are people's thoughts? Is what I did a 'good' idea? A 'bad' idea? Or, does anyone even care? I'm interested in people's thoughts, as well as suggestions/recommendations.

    ~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  2. #2
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    It depends what you are doing with it. For SAWS I do velcro on the bottom, trap it in place with flotation, velcro straps, and duct tape (basically everything I can do to keep them in). For normal use, I just velcro them to the hull, which works fine, is lightweight, and is quick and easy to remove.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  3. #3
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    Default

    20171123_151959.jpg

    Velcro on battery tray, velcro on battery, 2 straps

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    It depends what you are doing with it. For SAWS I do velcro on the bottom, trap it in place with flotation, velcro straps, and duct tape (basically everything I can do to keep them in). For normal use, I just velcro them to the hull, which works fine, is lightweight, and is quick and easy to remove.
    In other words, you do for SAWS what I've (currently) done in my SonicWake, except for the "Velcro on the bottom" part.

    Quote Originally Posted by denboy01 View Post
    20171123_151959.jpg
    Velcro on battery tray, velcro on battery, 2 straps
    Thank you, to both of you. Regarding the Velcro on the bottom, are you using the old-fashioned Velcro (ie. the "fuzzy" stuff), or the newer hook-and-loop style?

    ~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  5. #5
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    Old fashioned velcro is enough to stop the cells moving on the battery tray.

  6. #6
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    velcro on the bottom and on the lipos .

    if your picture is how you plan to mount them your doing it wrong!! your lipos go under the strap. the strap comes up over the top then down thru the buckle and then back over .look at these pics .

    this and velcro is pretty bulletproof.i have had some pretty good wipeouts and never ejected a lipo

    volantex vector pro ,proboat veles 29 , traxxas spartan, hobbyking/tfl pursuit ,ft009 with rescue rigging

  7. #7
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    heres another view . see how the strap is open ,slide the lipo thru ,push down to secure it to the velcro then pull the other side of that strap and it comes up and over again and thru the other buckle and over again .

    its the best system i have ever used actually .

    volantex vector pro ,proboat veles 29 , traxxas spartan, hobbyking/tfl pursuit ,ft009 with rescue rigging

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by boatsrnew2me View Post
    velcro on the bottom and on the lipos .

    if your picture is how you plan to mount them your doing it wrong!! your lipos go under the strap. the strap comes up over the top then down thru the buckle and then back over .look at these pics .

    this and velcro is pretty bulletproof.i have had some pretty good wipeouts and never ejected a lipo

    My install isn't "wrong"...I know how to use Velcro. Heck, I've probably been using Velcro straps for 40 years. I think you misunderstood, based on the middle & rear straps not being done-up in the photo...for the purpose of the photo, I didn't do-up the two straps that would hold the batteries.

    If you look at the photo, you'll easily see that the straps are laid over the side of the hull. The only strap I tightened was the front one, currently holding the styrofoam 'block' in place (as it would remain strapped in place all the time).

    ~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  9. #9
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    Got her out for the first time today (since the past two days, it got too late)...ran 2 pair of packs. My styrofoam "block & sheets" idea not only worked, but held the packs perfectly in-place. For now, I think I'll stick with this idea, and any 2S packs I'll be getting will be the same thickness, or up to 1mm thicker. However, once I replaced the ESC (with HW Seaking 180A), and start running 6S (3S2P), I'll replace the two side styrofoam pieces with Velcro, as suggested...but, the "block" up front will probably remain.

    Gotta admit, even though she only got 31.7mph (stock...haven't installed the CNC-4514 prop), I was having a blast. Can't wait to see what she can do with the swapped prop, or once I get her up to 6S.

    ~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  10. #10

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    You only need two straps but I upgraded my straps to the boatbitz starps which are a little more thicker.
    Also, here is the link - https://rcboatbitz.com/product/batte...-1-pair-300mm/
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    BJ42'' / Miss Geico 36'' / TFL Hydro 35'' / Retrieval boat 30'' Tug
    Make sure you check out my Youtube channel -----> shorturl.at/ntFQ7

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by UpliFT-RC View Post
    You only need two straps but I upgraded my straps to the boatbitz starps which are a little more thicker.
    Also, here is the link - https://rcboatbitz.com/product/batte...-1-pair-300mm/
    That's for the wider strap info. Just might order some. I got rid of the 'side' foam blocks awhile ago, and applied some Velcro asking the battery tray. Also replaced the motor & ESC, and am running 6S (two 3S, but will soon be ordering some 6S packs specifically for the SonucWake). Unfortunately, she's been down the past few weeks after losing one of the trim tabs to the bottom of the pond, and I've been awaiting arranging of the replacements from BoatBitz.

    Once the replacement trim tab is installed, I'll need to get back to testing props to see what works best with the Leopard 4074-1400kV motor. Not trying to get the fastest speed...just trying to get the longest runtime while at least maintaining the same speed she had on 4S while running the stock 1900kV motor. If I can get double the runtime, and hit 40mph, while still keeping the motor & ESC in the 100-110 degree range, I will have accomplished my goals. If I can get her to 45mph, with the other two goals still accomplished, I will have exceeded my goals. It's just a matter of determining the "best" prop.

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

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