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Thread: Proboat Sonicwake 36" w/ Turnigy Graphene 6000?

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    Default Proboat Sonicwake 36" w/ Turnigy Graphene 6000?

    Hi all! This is my first post. I've been in the hobby for over 20 years and prefer boats over any other RC vehicles.

    A few months ago, I purchased a Proboat Sonicwake 36" and have been preparing it for spring. I recently bought a set of 3S Turnigy Graphene 6000 batteries. I was not paying attention to the size of these when buying, and the batteries are massive and heavy(630g per). They fit perfectly but I'm concerned that they're too heavy for the hull. I'm not sure if the boat will sit right in the water, whether the self-righting function will still work and most importantly, what will happen when the boat eventually takes flight. I'm concerned that they'll rip out and take the whole boat down.

    Anyone running these? What batteries are you running? I'm thinking that I made a poor choice with this purchase and might try to return for something else.

    Any info would be greatly appreciated!
    Last edited by pdegene; 04-07-2020 at 03:06 PM.

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    Performance wise, they're awesome batteries, but you're correct, they are indeed massive. Strap them in and float the boat in your bath tub. See how close it it to flipping on its own with the extra weight.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

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    Not trying to, or interested, in 'hijacking' the Ops thread, but...I just ordered (from Steve, at OSE) the SonicWake, and I'm sorta-kinda wondering similar things. For one thing, I have the same "any battery recommendations" question...but, I also have other questions (which the Op might be interested in knowing answers to, or might already have the answers).

    First, and foremost, does the SonicWake handle and/or perform better when using a single pack centered along the 'V' of the hull, or when using two packs in-series? Tacked onto that (since mine is shipping today, I have no firsthand knowledge), is there even enough room to place two packs, side-by-side...and, if so, what would the maximum capacity and/or dimensions (per pack) be when planning to packs side-by-side? I'm under the impression (and, please, correct me if I'm wrong) that two packs in-series will run cooler than a single 4S, thus a major reason why I'm considering running 2x 2S.

    Second, what QUALITY batteries can be recommended? I do emphasize "quality"...I have several 'wheeled' vehicles (the SonicWake is my first boat), and most of my batteries are SMC & ProTek. I also have a few Gens Ace, and a couple Reedy WolfPacks. From experience (my own, plus that of several racers at our local track, incl a few team drivers), SMC & ProTek tend to be the best for off-road race vehicles...but, for boats, I have no clue. Help is greatly appreciated.

    As an 'extra' question, what 3rd-party props can be recommended for increasing speed, but still maintaining stability (giving 60-40 priority to stability). Don't know about the Op, but I know nothing about balancing/sharpening props, nor do I have the tools to do so, so I'm assuming a CNC machined prop might be best.

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    the boat can fit pretty large packs .i run 2-3s turnigy 60c heavy duty packs and they arent small . i can run them stacked or side by side .enough room to do both . your smc packs should be fine .
    you want minimum 50c packs but the higher the c the better . this boat can swell a cheap lipo pretty quick .
    on 4s you might not get on plane ,especially with the stock prop .out the gate it cavitates pretty bad until you get on plane .i worry 4s might not get you there . wont know until you try .

    i run a cnc 4514. very much like the stock prop without all the cavitation .i am in low 50`s with this prop .but i stopped doing gps tests long ago .i just send it!
    https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...od=cnc-4514251
    volantex vector pro ,proboat veles 29 , traxxas spartan, hobbyking/tfl pursuit ,ft009 with rescue rigging

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    Quote Originally Posted by pdegene View Post
    Hi all! This is my first post. I've been in the hobby for over 20 years and prefer boats over any other RC vehicles. I recently bought a set of 3S Turnigy Graphene 6000 batteries...the batteries are massive and heavy(630g per). I'm concerned that they're too heavy for the hull.

    Anyone running these? What batteries are you running? I'm thinking that I made a poor choice with this purchase and might try to return for something else. Any info would be greatly appreciated!
    Not trying to 'hijack' your thread, but this could be of interest to you...and, depending on any replies to it by others, could be extremely helpful to both of us, as well as to others.
    Quote Originally Posted by boatsrnew2me View Post
    the boat can fit pretty large packs .i run 2-3s turnigy 60c heavy duty packs and they arent small . i can run them stacked or side by side .enough room to do both . your smc packs should be fine .
    you want minimum 50c packs but the higher the c the better . this boat can swell a cheap lipo pretty quick .
    on 4s you might not get on plane ,especially with the stock prop .out the gate it cavitates pretty bad until you get on plane .i worry 4s might not get you there . wont know until you try .

    i run a cnc 4514. very much like the stock prop without all the cavitation .i am in low 50`s with this prop .but i stopped doing gps tests long ago .i just send it!
    https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...od=cnc-4514251
    First, thanks for the prop info...GREATLY appreciated. I ordered the CNC-4514 from Steve (actually, I ordered 2...good to have a backup). As for batteries, to start, I've ordered 4 PowerHobby 2S 5200mAh 50C. From what I've read (did a fairly decent amount of research), they appear to be very highly rated. Once my next deposit makes its way into my account, I'll probably turn to SMC for 6 more batteries...although which, I am uncertain, and could use some help (this will probably also be if help to the Op, pdegene). These are the batteries I'm considering, in order of preference:

    1) True Spec DV 7.4V 6500mAh 120Amps/75C wired hardcase (303gr)
    2) True Spec DV 7.4V 8000mAh 110Amps/75C wired hardcase (351gr)
    3) True Spec Extreme Graphene 7.4V 5200mAh 162Amps/50C Hardcase (309gr)
    4) True Spec Premium V2 7.4V 5200mAh 390PF/75C (275gr)

    All have the same 139mm length, and 47mm width, with the thickness varying between 24-25mm. The only real different between them (other than capacity) is that the fourth one uses 12AWG wires, while the first the use thicker 10AWG wires. Between the first two, it's a real toss-up...considering they have the same dimensions, it's a matter of capacity (8000mAh vs 6500mAh) vs weight (351gr vs 303gr). My 'concern' (which is very minimal) is whether, or not, the 351gr of the 8000mAh is more weight than the SonicWake can deal with. A pair of the 8000mAh comes in at 702gr, while the 6500mAh comes in at 606gr...thus, the 8000mAh pair weighs 96gr more than the 6500mAh pair. Suggestions? Recommendations?

    As for SMC batteries, some people only look at the price, and (incorrectly) think they must be low-quality. What they're not taking into consideration is that, when purchasing from SMC, you're purchasing directly from the manufacturer (no, they don't manufacture the individual cells, but no RC battery brands manufactures the individual cells themselves), thus cutting out the "middleman". I know several off-road racers that use (and have been using) SMC, and have never had problems. I've been using them in my buggies, truggies, STs, SCTs, and USGT, for the past 16 months, and I find them to be just as good as (if not better than) Gens Ace, Venom, Spektrum, Traxxas, Reedy, etc.

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    Right after posting the above post, something just popped into my mind, but I didn't want to do it as an edit...needs to be it's own post. With any given prop...for example, the stock and/or the CNC-4514 mentioned above...what would the typical runtime be in a pair of 2S 5000mAh packs? I ask this because of my next question. Using the same (again, stock and/or CNC-4514) props, what might the expected runtimes be for a pair of the above-mentioned SMC 6500mAh & 8000mAh packs? I'm a cat, after all...call me curious.

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    Last edited by Panther6834; 04-18-2020 at 04:36 PM.

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    4-5 minutes tops .harder you push it the less time you will get . boats are very amp hungry . the longest run time i ever had was with my traxxas spartan ,i could get 8-10 minutes with that boat . it gets a bad rep from the fiberglass guys but the stock system was very efficient.

    ps- bigger lipos is not exactly what you want in a boat unless you have a very cool running system . a 5000 mah lipo should get you 4-5 minute run times . to push it all the way to a 8000 mah lipo you really have to have a cool running system . after 4-5 minutes things are already pretty warm ,hot even depending on your system and how you have it set up.
    volantex vector pro ,proboat veles 29 , traxxas spartan, hobbyking/tfl pursuit ,ft009 with rescue rigging

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    Quote Originally Posted by boatsrnew2me View Post
    4-5 minutes tops .harder you push it the less time you will get . boats are very amp hungry . the longest run time i ever had was with my traxxas spartan ,i could get 8-10 minutes with that boat . it gets a bad rep from the fiberglass guys but the stock system was very efficient.

    ps- bigger lipos is not exactly what you want in a boat unless you have a very cool running system . a 5000 mah lipo should get you 4-5 minute run times . to push it all the way to a 8000 mah lipo you really have to have a cool running system . after 4-5 minutes things are already pretty warm ,hot even depending on your system and how you have it set up.
    I'm guessing the heating matter would be related to run time - the longer it's run, the hotter the motor and ESC. Coming from land-based surface vehicles, I'm not used to that...I'm used a fan on the ESC, as well as a fan on, or blowing towards, the motor, to provide cooling. I can say my SonicWake isn't stock. The pickup has been replaced with Steve's dual pickup rudder (plus the HD flex cable) which would help keep both the motor, and ESC, running cooler. Plus, I am strongly considering replacing the Dynamite ESC with the Seaking 180A.

    Currently, be one water line runs through the motor cooling, while the other runs through the ESC. Right now, the ESC water line runs in one end, out the other, and then back through on the other side. However, as I mentioned, I also have the CNC-4514 prop on the way. I'm sure that, whichever battery I go with, I'll also be adjusting the strut angle, which will take a few times to find the 'appropriate' angle. Would going with the Seaking ESC affect ESC temp (and, if so, up or down)? Eventually, I'll replace the motor with something more appropriate for running 6S, but, until then, 4S is it.

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    the seaking 180 only has 1 inlet and outlet ,the dynamite has 2 and it flows thru the heatsink twice(once coming in then thru a loop and back out) ,so in theory it may run cooler then the 180 . get yourself a temp gun(they are cheap ) .keep your first couple runs short ,bring it in and check the temps on motor and esc .you want them to be under 150 degrees .
    if you dont have a temp gun right away ,run it for 2-3 minutes and bring it in .put your finger on the motor and esc if you cant hold it there for more then a few seconds its too hot. with the dual cooling and the cnc prop you should be fine .
    but if you plan to run that large 8000 mah lipo get a temp gun and bring it in every few minutes to keep an eye on temps .boats ,unlike cars and trucks aren't made for long run times .

    another thing ,running them slower doesnt exactly help keep things cooler .in theory you think it would but it needs speed to get the cooling water thru the line .
    volantex vector pro ,proboat veles 29 , traxxas spartan, hobbyking/tfl pursuit ,ft009 with rescue rigging

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    Quote Originally Posted by boatsrnew2me View Post
    the seaking 180 only has 1 inlet and outlet ,the dynamite has 2 and it flows thru the heatsink twice(once coming in then thru a loop and back out) ,so in theory it may run cooler then the 180 . get yourself a temp gun(they are cheap ) .keep your first couple runs short ,bring it in and check the temps on motor and esc .you want them to be under 150 degrees .

    boats ,unlike cars and trucks aren't made for long run times. another thing ,running them slower doesnt exactly help keep things cooler .in theory you think it would but it needs speed to get the cooling water thru the line .
    I race...I have a temp gun...lol. Plus, I know running slower doesn't keep motor cooler (well, except in crawlers, but they're going super-slow). I was figuring, since I'm only running 4S, the ESC & motor wouldn't get as hot...plus, the motor is only 1900kV. Whereas the Dynamite ESC has two water tubes (which go straight though), what about the Seaking 130A-HV? Or the Seaking Pro 160A, which I believe uses a directional water channel (someone told me this, sleigh I still haven't found 'proof') running through the entire cooling block?

    If not the 8000mAh, then maybe the 6500mAh?

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    Thanks everyone for the great replies! I decided to return the Turnigy batteries for SMC. I've purchased a couple SMC sets in the past and am always impressed with their quality. My concerns with the Turnigy batteries were purely weight based. The batteries were just awkward and needed to be stacked in the battery tray. My main concern with their weight was what could happen in a flip... I could see those trays ripping out because the batteries are so large. I didn't even bother with seeing if the self righting feature would still work with them.

    I contacted SMC and had a conversation with Danny about my options. He recommended that I go with this set, which are 300g lighter than Turnigy with more capacity:
    https://www.smc-racing.net/index.php...product_id=570

    I ordered two and a lipo alarm to go with it. I initially wanted a set that I could also run in my Rustler 4x4, but he couldn't guarantee that they'd work well in the boat without any cooling. I'm a little concerned with the fact that they don't come with a warranty, but I'm willing to try them out and always like having more C than is needed. There's little to no information about what a boat truly needs C-wise.

    I'll let you guys know how they work!

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    Quote Originally Posted by pdegene View Post
    Thanks everyone for the great replies! I decided to return the Turnigy batteries for SMC. I've purchased a couple SMC sets in the past and am always impressed with their quality. My concerns with the Turnigy batteries were purely weight based. The batteries were just awkward and needed to be stacked in the battery tray. My main concern with their weight was what could happen in a flip... I could see those trays ripping out because the batteries are so large. I didn't even bother with seeing if the self righting feature would still work with them.

    I contacted SMC and had a conversation with Danny about my options. He recommended that I go with this set, which are 300g lighter than Turnigy with more capacity:
    https://www.smc-racing.net/index.php...product_id=570

    I ordered two and a lipo alarm to go with it. I initially wanted a set that I could also run in my Rustler 4x4, but he couldn't guarantee that they'd work well in the boat without any cooling. I'm a little concerned with the fact that they don't come with a warranty, but I'm willing to try them out and always like having more C than is needed. There's little to no information about what a boat truly needs C-wise.

    I'll let you guys know how they work!
    The funny thing is, I've also been in contact with SMC, about batteries for the same boat, and several days ago, Danny recommended the same battery to me. As I'm about to head to Vegas for another 2-3 well visit with family, I'm holding off ordering them until after I return. Hopefully, you'll receive them while I'm away, and can test them & post your results.

    ~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    Last edited by Panther6834; 05-12-2020 at 05:40 PM.

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    Default Sonicwake Temp reduction options

    New to RC boats.

    I would like to decrease the temperature of the electronics for longer runs and more frequent runs. What decrease should I expect with Product ID ose-83359
    Dual Pickup Rudder Blade for the ProBoat Sonic Wake 36?

    Is there another method to reduce the heat which may be more efficient?

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    Quote Originally Posted by travisbelldds@gmail.com View Post
    New to RC boats.

    I would like to decrease the temperature of the electronics for longer runs and more frequent runs. What decrease should I expect with Product ID ose-83359
    Dual Pickup Rudder Blade for the ProBoat Sonic Wake 36?

    Is there another method to reduce the heat which may be more efficient?
    I went with the same system, but haven't run the boat yet. It was on the list of upgrades that I purchased along with the boat. I think the dual pickup rudder setup will be good for routing one line through the ESC and the other through the motor. You could go one step further and add an additional pickup and route two different lines trough the ESC, but I highly doubt that's necessary. I bought additional tubing because I wanted everything to be the same.

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    Quote Originally Posted by travisbelldds@gmail.com View Post
    New to RC boats.

    I would like to decrease the temperature of the electronics for longer runs and more frequent runs. What decrease should I expect with Product ID ose-83359
    Dual Pickup Rudder Blade for the ProBoat Sonic Wake 36?

    Is there another method to reduce the heat which may be more efficient?
    I bought mine from Steve, with the OSE upgrades (dual-pickup rudder & HD flex cable) pre-installed. I haven't actually checked temps with a temp gun, but I also haven't needed to...even with the larger 45mm diameter prop I'm currently running. Granted, I'm still only running 4S, but, I can easily place fingers on the ESC & motor for as long as I want. As for the battery, they're a bit on the 'hot' side, but I can still place fingers in them for 10+ seconds before it's too much. I have a studying feeling that, once I replaced the EC5 connectors with the 6mm OSE-qs6 connectors, that would eliminate any temperature problem with the batteries.

    ~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

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    Quick update:

    I received the batteries in the mail. Lightning fast shipping even when requesting soldered connectors. Thank you, SMC! The packs are really nice and quite a bit smaller than the others. The battery tray in this thing kinda sucks in that no battery fits well. They fit side by side, but they slide up and down in the tray after being strapped in. How do people solve this issue? My first thought was just a little Velcro on the bottom to hold it in place, but I don't necessarily want that on my battery. I'm fabricating a tray with integrated spacers by adhering wood blocks to a 1/32" sheet of aluminum.

    I have everything I need to run it now and cant wait to see it in action. I just need to visit a relative on the lake!

  17. #17

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    @pdegene - I have the best luck with my boat, running 2 DINOGY GRAPHENE 2.0 3S 5000MAH 70C LIPO's since they are not as heavy as the Turnigy Graphene 6000 lipo's, see below for comparison and spec size! Actually #MrMad2424 on Youtube recommended the DINOGY GRAPHENE to me and they are awesome! Plus, I run the BoatsBitz dual rudder pickup for my cooling systems and as far as my props, i run a few different ones! For my Speed runs, i use the Supersonic3prop from Chris Hoffman which I have been able to get 60MPH out of my boat no problem with all stock electronics! Today, I JUST bought a lighter prop to get longer run times from Dasboata and got the 440/3 prop!

    DINOGY GRAPHENE 2.0 3S 5000MAH 70C LIPO's
    Specifications:
    Capacity: 5000MAH
    Cell Count: 3
    Constant Discharge: 70C
    Voltage: 11.1V
    Max Charge Rate 5C
    Pack Weight 407g
    Pack Size 27x48x165mm
    Pack Weight 407g
    https://www.dinogylipos.com/collecti...00mah-70c-lipo
    vs

    Turnigy Graphene Panther 6000mAh 3S 75C
    Specs:

    Capacity: 6000mAh
    Cell Count: 3
    Voltage: 11.1V
    Constant Discharge: 75C
    Peak Discharge (3s): 150C
    Battery Size: 168x69x27mm
    Weight: 630g
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by UpliFT-RC; 07-31-2020 at 07:18 AM.
    BJ42'' / Miss Geico 36'' / TFL Hydro 35'' / Retrieval boat 30'' Tug
    Make sure you check out my Youtube channel -----> shorturl.at/ntFQ7

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    I finally had an opportunity to get the boat on the water and am thoroughly impressed. The thing is fast, stable, and when I needed the self-righting feature, it worked. The batteries and motor were warm, but the ESC/wires were HOT. Since it was a new boat, I brought it back often to check temps and even with the dual pickup, the ESC/wires were hotter than I wanted. Had I gone all out, the thing would have smoked something. There's a lot of cavitation and it takes 2/3 throttle to get going, but once the prop bites, it BOOGIES.

    I need to find a prop that bites more, beef up the ESC, or both... I'm going to start with a Seaking 180A ESC and am also looking into different cooling options. I plan to order larger diameter tubing and will most likely upgrade to the larger intake diameter of the BoatsBitz rudder kit as well.

    For those that have the BoatsBitz parts, how do you like them?
    Anyone have any prop recommendations?
    I'm using XT-90's. Should I consider bullets or a larger connector? (XT-150?)

    Here's a 12sec video of it. Sorry about the quality. When I rotated the video, it got worse.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SA-6feKIn6E
    Last edited by pdegene; 07-21-2020 at 02:12 PM.

  19. #19

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    Please show us some pictures when you install your Seaking 180 ESC, since I am getting ready to install one in mine?
    Last edited by UpliFT-RC; 08-04-2020 at 06:34 AM.
    BJ42'' / Miss Geico 36'' / TFL Hydro 35'' / Retrieval boat 30'' Tug
    Make sure you check out my Youtube channel -----> shorturl.at/ntFQ7

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    Hi we just purchased the Sonic wake and am kind of confused on which batteries to use? We purchased ph 3s 7600mah 75c & zeee 22.2 100c 6000m, haven't opened either was hoping for some advice as I want the best speed and run time, but after reading problems with weight and overheating I'm kind of leery?? Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boater View Post
    Hi we just purchased the Sonic wake and am kind of confused on which batteries to use? We purchased ph 3s 7600mah 75c & zeee 22.2 100c 6000m, haven't opened either was hoping for some advice as I want the best speed and run time, but after reading problems with weight and overheating I'm kind of leery?? Thanks
    On the stock ESC, while it is 6S 'capable', I would advise only doing full-throttle for short periods of time. The stock ESC is best when running under 4S. However, of you replace the stock ESC with something better...for example, the Spektrum Firma 160A, HW Seaking 180A, OSE Raider 150A, etc...then the SonicWake will be ready for true 6S runs.

    As for the batteries you got, both should be good. The 3S packs you would have to run in-series, combining their power together (exactly the same way you'd run two 2S in-series, creating 4S power). For a single 6S, or 4S, you'll need to get a "loop" (sorry, I'm blanking on the technical name right now, and I don't know the part number).

    UPDATE: For those interested/considering XT90, or EC5, connectors...DON'T. This doesn't come 'from' me. I'm just passing it on from others who have given the same advise. The minimum recommended connector would be Castle 6.5mm, or something similar.


    ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
    Last edited by Panther6834; 07-29-2021 at 03:35 PM.

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by pdegene View Post
    The batteries and motor were warm, but the ESC/wires were HOT. Since it was a new boat, I brought it back often to check temps and even with the dual pickup, the ESC/wires were hotter than I wanted.

    I'm using XT-90's. Should I consider bullets or a larger connector? (XT-150?)
    Any updates on the ESC wires getting hot on your Sonicwake? Do you still have this issue or did you find a solution? Also, did you end up replacing the XT-90s?

    I just picked up a gently used Sonicwake and I'm getting ready to make some improvements. I hear a lot of people talk about their electronics getting really hot.
    Info and pictures about our Invincible Razor build, Lindberg PT Boats; Racing Runabout; Pro Boat Stealthwake and more! Plus videos of our boats including upgrades, repairs, etc.

  23. #23
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    I run 2x TURNIGY RAPID 8000MAH 2S2P 140-280C hardcase lipo's (317g per pack) and my esc/motor/battery temps are 95 degrees or less when I finish a 6:30 second run at wot the entire time, that's running 4 cells. You draw less current (Current = heat) running 6 cells so not sure why the stock ESC wouldn't cut it? I am running the stock prop, stock motor, 5.5mm barrel connectors & the batteries have 5mm barrel connectors on the packs. My connectors get slightly warm. I have drilled out the rudder with a long shank 1/8" bit and replaced most of my silicone tubing with 3/16" od thin walled aluminum tubing with short connecting 5/32" id silicone tubing pieces. I also drilled out the nipples with a 7/64" bit then removed the nipples from the esc, cleaned out the shavings. If anyone wants to do this be careful as the nipples are aluminum so be careful tightening them back on if you remove them. So slightly modified stock cooling system is all I've done.
    Last edited by One-Eye Bandit; 11-09-2021 at 01:16 AM.

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    No, that analogy is incorrect. You assume that power stays the same on 6S which implies less current.
    In reality, current will increase and inefficiencies getting to peak power are higher as well, hence more heat getting to the top and higher current at max power.
    Easy mistake to make, though.
    You are probably running at 80-100A when you are on 4S and that will easily peak out at max ESC capability of close to 120A on 6S.

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    Ok, makes sense. Thanks for that clarification! I haven't run 6s yet, so I haven't experienced it first-hand.

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