Results 1 to 16 of 16

Thread: Proboat Zelos 36' custom build questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    30

    Default Proboat Zelos 36' custom build questions

    Hey everyone,

    Im about to purchase my second Zelos 36" because i love the first one I got so much.

    I want to make this second one custom inside and out and I dont want to cut corners.

    What im doing externally is having a body shop friend of mine spray the hull metallic orange with a gloss black underbelly. My son drives the boats and his name is mitch so by the cockpit im going to have "Driver: Mitchell" above the mock windshield on the starboard side in matte black.

    As for internally, I wanted to put in the following:

    Replace the 2 stock Dynamite 120a, with 2 Hobby Wing Seaking 180a v3 to handle more speed and acceleration. I did this upgrade to my Sonicwake 36" and now the thing runs beautifully on 6s with no cooling problems and it runs amazingly well and fast.

    The questions I have mainly arise from my desire to change the motors to give it even more umph than my stock one I already have. I havent built a boat before so I obviously dont want to buy anything i dont need or isnt worth it.

    The stock motors are Dynamite 36.68mm, 6 Pole, 2000KV and Id like to replace them with something, again, to give it more top speed, acceleration and just overall more range of speed, but im not sure what motor I can get that will fit inside the Zelos 36" hull.

    I dont drive my boats for speed runs then bring it in before it gets too hot. I like to putt them around for a bit then do a couple quick runs here and there but pretty calmy driving it for the most part. On my stock one I can squeeze about ~15 minutes out of it driving it like that so i dont want to get a bigger motor just to have it suck up all the power and limit its run time to the single digit minutes. So when looking for a new motor I dont want all out speed, just a decent step up from the stock ones without destroying the run time. Id like to be able to use the same batteries on both of my Zelos' (6s wired to each half of the boat). Ive seen many people mention in their videos "lepoard motors" - I see on this sites online store there are many leopard motors for purchase and im not sure which one to get. Like I said i want to upgrade everything in my new/second Zelos. And a better motor ontop of the 180s Seakings, im hoping will have good results - I just dont know how to determine power to speed ratio when considering upgrading a motor in an rc boat!

    Next Id want to give it some subtle style by swapping out the stock battery/parts tray for a carbon fiber tray - I think the one to get for this would be https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...rod=tfl-858b15

    As for the Radio and Servo Im sure the stock radio will be fine as I will not be needing auxiliary fuctions besides throttle and steering so this 2 channel radio should do but maybe upgrading this will make the controls feel more crisp?

    However the servo, dealing with upgraded motors (Ideally) id like the reassurance of a strong one that can handle what I want to throw at it.

    The stock Servo is a 9KG Servo, WP, Metal Center Case, 23T. This being my first build I'm not sure how to research replacements for a servo or what is important to consider when upgrading one but I see there are servos in themselves as well as servo arms.

    For the arms, the stock zelos being a dual armed Im looking towards https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...hp?prod=hh-672 for a dual arm set up.
    Can anyone recommend a better servo unit that is compatible with these stronger arms?

    also does anyone know if there exists a replacement for the hatch hand screws for push-in type locks? Like tops you push in and they click and lock in place then you press again to release?


    Thank you all for your contributions and thank you for reading through this mess I am very excited and will keep you all posted on the build if you want!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    1,012

    Default

    Not knowing the hull personally...

    I take it you are running 3s total volts? not 6s to the motors?

    Leopard 3674/2.5D maybe ?
    Hpr 06 / 09 / 150 /185, Mhz Skater H45 hydro.
    Uk SAW record holder

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    fl
    Posts
    22

    Default

    You are better off with the new Proboat Geiko !
    Or check out RC GROUP NEW Pro Boat 36" twin Miss Geico
    Willi !

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vvviivvv View Post
    Not knowing the hull personally...

    I take it you are running 3s total volts? not 6s to the motors?

    Leopard 3674/2.5D maybe ?
    I am running 6s directly to each motor

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by willy43 View Post
    You are better off with the new Proboat Geiko !
    Or check out RC GROUP NEW Pro Boat 36" twin Miss Geico
    Willi !
    Ive seen that geico youre talking about, the reason im doing the zelos is because I like the thicker hull and a buddy of mine is giving me the boat for 400$ with all internals and batteries which is pretty hard price to beat so why not :)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    You're contradicting yourself with the motor upgrade goals. You say you want more top speed and acceleration, but then you say you don't want a hit in run time and don't care about top speed. Regardless, a more efficient motor will pull less amps at any given RPM which will help with run time and will also have more peak performance. You'll probably be happy with something similar in size to what's already in the boat, whether that's the new 2000kV motor from the Miss Geico Twin/Sonicwake, or a similar sized 36mm Leopard.

    The stock electronics tray can be modified to hold the new ESC's. While I like the look of carbon and do use it myself, most of that TFL tray you linked to will be hidden once the electronics are installed and the batteries strapped in for the effort required to install it, not to mention it's too short for 4 3S packs in the stock configuration. It holds the servo in a different position, so you'd have to re-engineer the servo mount too. If its truely just a cosmetic upgrade, you can try a thin, adhesive backed carbon fiber veneer and cover the existing tray with it. Just an idea.

    I use a Spektrum S6230 servo in my Zelos, and many of my other similar sized boats. It's rated for 311oz of torque at 6V and works very well. They're low profile, waterproof, and hold the rudder on center much better than the stock servos do. The plastic servo horn works fine, but if you replace to something alloy, you'll be limited by the 23T spline size and the radius of the stock mounting holes. I ended up modifying one I found on eBay this winter to keep the stock geometry in tact.

    I didn't like the stock canopy hatch screws either and have replaced them with the push and turn style locks on my last two hulls. They are not plug and play and do require some drilling of both the canopy and hull to increase the mounting hole size. You can see the 180A ESC's mounted to the stock tray and the hatch locks in these two photos.


    2019-05-27 12.26.15.jpg 2019-09-08 10.58.52 (Medium).jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Youre right - I wrote that late at night and worded that rather poorly. I think as far as speed goes ill stick with the 180a ESC upgrade and ill probably get what im looking for in that alone.

    You saved me on the tray though, thank you! That carbon fiber wrap idea is really cool too i didnt think of that.

    Hatch screws are a pain! I really like the look of the black ones its a great looking contrast to the yellow hull you got. Ive drilled into my boats before for cooling tubes so im sure i can widen one well enough to make up for the larger mounting sizes.

    That servo sounds like what im looking for as well, I read your comments and took it for another drive and youre right I think mine could hold a better line and this sounds great - thank you for the insight!

    I guess if anything for the motors - can you suggest possibly the same motor but a higher quality one/better brand perhaps?

    You have a great set up im jealous! nice and clean lookin.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    Thanks. The boat looks better in pictures than it does in person. It's been around the block a few times and has even fallen off my work bench twice!

    Get in touch with Steven Vacarro from Offshore Electrics and he'll get you setup with the motors you need.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    30

    Default

    How did it not crack a hole or two from your bench! id be pissed!

    And thanks for the name - ill be sure to contact him :)

    Any links to the carbon fiber you laid in your boat? sorry to be sucha copy cat!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    My boat is heavily reinforced, so the fall only caused some minor gelcoat cracks.

    2018-05-29 07.37.22.jpg

    I use 3K 2x2 twill weave carbon fiber cloth and West Systems 105/207 resin. I've bought the rolls of cloth from CJ Composites on eBay as well as Composite Envisions.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    My boat is heavily reinforced, so the fall only caused some minor gelcoat cracks.

    2018-05-29 07.37.22.jpg

    I use 3K 2x2 twill weave carbon fiber cloth and West Systems 105/207 resin. I've bought the rolls of cloth from CJ Composites on eBay as well as Composite Envisions.
    thanks for the pic of the inside helps me get a better idea how to do mine. I ordered a a sheet of black and orange to match the future paint job with the spec you mentioned along with a quart of the resin and hardener - any tips on the laying process? or maybe a video or guide how to lay it in the boat hull? im familiar with auto body work im assuming its similar just want to be 100% when it comes to my door :)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    Here's the basic process that I've followed from Keith Bradley's old website. The key is surface prep. A lot of sanding and degreasing. I spent probably close to 2 hours grinding down the epoxy blobs the factory dribbled along the interior belt line seams, smoothing out some other general imperfections, and general surface prep of every surface I was going to try and bond something to.

    Lot's of info and pictures in this older Zelos 36 modification thread: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...s+modification
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Ive been scrolling through these forums for the past couple hours and fweasel, youre all over this place haha - i cant believe how helpful you are youre almost on every thread giving advice or thoughts on builds or helping out new members like myself.

    Since this is my thread and we got a good convo going instead of making a new thread with these new questions or responding to an ancient thread and hoping for replies - id like to ask a few questions about this build of mine if you dont mind a couple more! lol

    1. I want to make the interior of my boat rather pretty and was thinking of ordering colored cooling tubes - ive seen some people use oxidean 1/4" inner diameter tubing as well as 1/4" outer diameter tubing. some say the 1/4" ID tubing helps tremendously with cooling and others only recommenced it either on exiting tubes or only for entering tubes - any thoughts on this?

    2. Piano wire drives instead of the flex cable drives for a boat's prop? Ive recently discovered that this concept exists and not only that Piano wire drives are virtually better than flex cables in every way - you dont have to account for the gap between strut and prop, no cable flexing so more direct power to the props etc - is this a common/easily doable mod for this build of mine? if so how do I go about finding what Piano wire will work with my boat? I tried my best to research how to go about installing this and ive found very little information!

    Thanks again for all your help - RC boats have much MUCH more to them than meets the eye, im finding out as i get deeper and deeper into this hobby of mine haha. VERY NICHE things haha!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    I try and give back everything I've picked up from others in the short time I've been in this particular hobby. If you're a quick study, the info is out there, and many people are willing to share their knowledge.

    Regarding cooling hose, buy it from a reputable source like OSE, not Oxidean. No need to go crazy on the size as there are a number of other restrictions in the cooling system that can be addressed to increase flow, besides, 1/4 ID tends to fit too loosely on most of our fittings. Hose barbs are usually the biggest restrictions and can be drilled out to increase the ID, filing tear drops in front of the through hull pickups under the hull, and routing the cooling lines efficiently will all help with flow. Temperature control in an open system like an RC boat is all about flow. More flow, more better. Don't try and apply automotive cooling system principles, that's a closed system and completely different.

    I really like piano wires, and used them in my Zelos for a while. The problem is they're fragile and do not like aggressive bends. I was breaking them too often, and ultimately switched back to flex cables for this application, despite the small increase in friction.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    30

    Default

    I think ill stick with the Heavy duty shafts from OSE breaking piano wire after piano wire and custom fitting the drive shaft to have less of a bend sounds like a pain to deal with. and youre right on the cooling tubes inner diameter if anything ill bore out the fitting on the esc and motor jacket. Ontop of that with the piano wire it seems like id have to custom make them and i dont want to deal with that lol.

    Another question came up for me though - I read somewhere (cant remember where) that if you go from a dual blade prop to a triple bladed prop you need to drop 1mm on the diameter to make up for the stress difference? I want to get triples for my Zelos and im pretty sure the stock 2 blade props it comes with are 1.7" x 1.6" . the 1.7 is the diameter in inches and converting that to mm puts it at 43mm roughly. So i should look for a triple bladed prop at 42mm?

    Theres a seller on ebay that has the same polished balanced props all made for a zelos 36 and the only difference I can see between them is the diameter. The pricing seems odd to me so heres a link to check it out yourself - https://www.ebay.com/itm/643-3-3D-Pr...MAAOSwZ6ddW6lB

    134$ = 44mm
    129$ = 43mm
    99$ = 45mm

    I dont understand this pricing

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    2 blade props are more efficient and are what I would recommend for the Zelos. 3 blades can be useful when you need more thrust without increasing overall diameter to counteract problems on V-bottom hulls. I've setup my Zelos with 2 blade props for everything from 60mph to 100mph. Dasboata (Chris Hoffmann) can get you setup with a pair of sharpened, balanced, and heat treated ABC props depending on your ultimate goals for about the price of what you're already looking at on eBay.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •