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Thread: Black Pearl II Hydro - 2020

  1. #91
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    Pete
    What is the max battery height at the 165mm length on the front.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  2. #92
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    Hi Larry. Looks like 32mm. You could always shave some material off the motor mount gussets to give yourself a little more length. What batteries are you trying to fit?

    I'm going to seal it tonight. I've been using an old T-shirt to work it into the wood. Sounds ridiculous, but it's the best method I've found so far. Excellent results.
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  3. #93
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    Also, forgot to mention. I cut the top cross member of the bulkhead. I do this with all my boats. I sanded down the lower cross member as well.

  4. #94
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    Pete - the 165mm length, is that to the motor mount gussets at the floor??

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  5. #95
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    Yes Larry, exactly. Keep in mind that the height drastically increases as well as you move back.

  6. #96
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    A little more work on the P boat. I sealed the it with West using a small cotton rag. Rubbed it in. Starting to mount hardware and bend the stuffing tube. Hopefully I'll be priming both boats by the end of the week.
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  7. #97
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    I glassed in the stuffing tube. Many schools of thought on the bend. I typically go straight from the motor shaft and then a gradual "J" bend to the strut.
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  8. #98
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    Love these wood build threads. My BP17 is still in the box. I wonder if there could be a way to seal the wood before laser cutting it? It sure would be nice to only have to worry about the edges being sealed when building a wood boat. I'm surprised the ply manufacturer's don't offer such a product. The premium in cost would be worth it IMO and surely it would result in a lighter boat if it was some sort of adhesive film applied under pressure with heat. Something almost like magic transparent scotch tape.

  9. #99
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    Hey Mike. Not a bad idea. I've considered sealing parts before assembling for sure, and think I'll try it next build. I suppose we could rub it into the wood before laser cutting, but I'm not sure if the fumes would be hazardous or not.

  10. #100
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    EAEE1DF4-4F24-4060-BACB-ACD47699CECF.jpgHey Shooter I noticed you cut out the former top brace I there is no problem with strength when doing that. I assume this means you will run your batteries length wise. I think I will do the same seams like it will make setup easier.
    :canada

  11. #101
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    Hi, your boat looks nice! Yes, I remove that upper brace on all my builds, and I do run my batts and esc lengthwise. That being said, I glass every seam and joint on the boat for srength. I also think the curved hatch stiffens up the boat more than people think, and acts like a top cross brace.
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  12. #102
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    Thanks, I will remove mine to as I also glass all the seams.
    :canada

  13. #103
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    On the full sized Pearl I always keep that top brace. One the smaller I broke it off. I'm not that concerned with the lower power and weight.
    Noisy person

  14. #104
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    Hey Shooter. There's a guy on Facebook looking for a nose cone for the ul1. Would yours work for him? Here's his profile to contact him if you're on Facebook lol. https://www.facebook.com/brandon.groothouse
    Tommy Levescy sponsored by: Panther Tires, CowRC, Scorpion Precision Performance, TheBuildRc.com, FTMGrip, and RCJuice.

  15. #105
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    Sorry, no the UL-1 is much smaller than the original Black Pearl nose cone that comes in the kit. They are not compatible.

  16. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Hi, your boat looks nice! Yes, I remove that upper brace on all my builds, and I do run my batts and esc lengthwise. That being said, I glass every seam and joint on the boat for srength. I also think the curved hatch stiffens up the boat more than people think, and acts like a top cross brace.
    What weight cloth do you use Pete?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  17. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    A little more work on the P boat. I sealed the it with West using a small cotton rag. Rubbed it in. Starting to mount hardware and bend the stuffing tube. Hopefully I'll be priming both boats by the end of the week.
    Just one coat of epoxy or two? Both inside and out? Thank you.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  18. #108
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    Hi Ray! I use very thin cloth. 3/4oz. It folds real nice into inside corners. I've been rubbing west systems into the wood on the outside (1 coat). The inside is brushed, only because I apply it while I'm glassing all of the seams. Someone mentioned earlier of sealing the wood prior to starting the build. I'm going to try this next time. Sand both sides of each pc and then rub epoxy into the wood.

  19. #109
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    Finally put the first coat of primer on. Time to sand and then add another coat.

  20. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Hi Ray! I use very thin cloth. 3/4oz. It folds real nice into inside corners. I've been rubbing west systems into the wood on the outside (1 coat). The inside is brushed, only because I apply it while I'm glassing all of the seams. Someone mentioned earlier of sealing the wood prior to starting the build. I'm going to try this next time. Sand both sides of each pc and then rub epoxy into the wood.
    Thank you. Do you use long pieces? Do you leave any joint areas bare of glass? Or do you use little pieces all over?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  21. #111
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    Hi Pete,
    If you pre coat all the flat surfaces will that not make the bendy parts harder to bend when assembling . West systems hardens up real good !!
    cheers, Jay.

  22. #112
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    They usually stay bendy if you coat them like Pete does with a T-shirt and rub it in and off.

    It's when you put a thick coat on that it goes rigid. Pete will chime in eventually.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  23. #113
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    I coat them when I deck. So basically it isn't cured when I'm applying the deck.
    Noisy person

  24. #114
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    Good point Jay. Something to consider, especially for the sheeting. I guess I'll find out someday when I build the Q version. For now, back to the LSH and P. Both have been primed, sanded, and primed again. I've been filling small defects with Elmer's wood filler.
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  25. #115
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    Ray, see post #72 for size of glass strips. They are very small. I cut them with a fabric wheel and then dab with brush to pick up and apply. I find it funny that Ray asks me questions. Awfully humble. I bet he's built 10x the amount of boats that I have!!

  26. #116
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    Nooo. Well, if you count the balsa ones from round cell days maybe, lol...

    Thanks again. I'll go see #72. :)
    Nortavlag Bulc

  27. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    I'll be doing this to the Whip40 I'm building for Danno too. Joints need attention if they're going to stay together.
    I have a Whip 20 left to build. I got it from Kevin Sheren about 5 or 7 years ago in MI. I wanted to built it juuust right. This will help.

    Sorry Pete. I sold the kit I got from you a while back. I had to cutback what I had and I'm eliminating larger boats like Q, P-sport, P- cat (Cheetah).

    I went to the dark side and started building riggers.. Wood at least!
    Nortavlag Bulc

  28. #118
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    Hey Pete...boats are looking great!! Thought I would add my 2 cents to the coating the parts before the build. From what I have always understood is that after epoxy cures it leaves a waxy kind of coating on the surface. So you need to sand off the top coating so you get good adhesion. But since your only really filling the pours lightly it might work out fine. The only parts I pre-treat is what Terry is doing...basically all the top deck skins are bent then get a light coating on the underside just before I install them.

    Won’t be able to make it to the May 31 race due to a confliction, but will definitely be there for the June race.

    All the boats are getting close to prime and paint. I’m excited to get them in the water.....:)
    Posted a new picture of the Q boat on my build thread.

    Talk to you guys soon.

  29. #119
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    Hi Pete,
    On Grape Nutz the strut depth the is 19mm from the bottom of the hull to the bottom of the strut, the prop is H-1816.
    Cheers, Jay.

  30. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    I have a Whip 20 left to build.
    The 20 will benefit from the extra reinforcement but it isn't as prone to seem failures as the 40. My opinion at least.
    Noisy person

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