The front part of the frame is the hardest part!
The front part of the frame is the hardest part!
Yes it is. I had just enough useful clamps to do the bottom.
There are 2 parts not mentioned in the instructions and only one CAD image shows it. It's a curved wedge about 2.5" long that would be frame#7??? There is a notch in it for a stick.
Nortavlag Bulc
Yep, already glued down in the right place. The kit is really nice imo.
Next to build up the sponson edges and wood sticks all around
Nortavlag Bulc
What esc is a good fit to stick between 2 x 4s 5000 packs, I have only recently bought mine and it has an older seaking 180a unit that does not allow for two packs.
Sorry I should have worded that better, the wiring is not the issue its the physical size of the seaking, it won't fit between the two batteries, so I'm looking for an esc that is reliable that will fit between them, I was interested if a particular esc is commonly used in the hull due to space limitations.
Hi Pete,
I run that same ESC (seaking 180) in my LSH size boat which has a smaller tubwidth than your full P boat. Do you have any photos? I remember you saying it was an older hull. Thanks!
I have been doing a bit of research and I think the seaking 180 v3 will fit as its 49mm wide, my old seaking 180 is 70mm wide so it should get the job done. The other esc I was considering is the flycolor kraken 180 has anyone tried one of these?
OK so far you have got;
2 x 4s 5000 packs,
Seaking 180 v3,
What motor, and prop are you going to use?
Larry
Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
Its already setup and I have run it in it's current state but the run time is short running one pack, maybe 3 mins and the pack was at 10% which was a bit of a shock for me as I don't like going below 30%.
The Motor is TP but I do not know the specs for it.
Prop is an Octura m445.
First thing I see in your picture is;
Turn the water jacket on the motor, so the output is at the top
(highest point above the bottom of the boat) NOT the side.
The way the water jacket is right now. The water in the jacket will never get above the output nipple.
This is one of the main reasons that motors get over heated.
Also you should use a longer jacket.
Larry
Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
Thanks for the advice Larry I will get that fixed up, I just ordered the seaking 180a v3 which is 21mm narrower than my current esc so that should allow me to run both packs, I just need to come up with a decent battery to esc connection setup for parallel packs.
My new Seaking 180a has arrived, how do people do the parallel input connection, I had a thought of soldering the bullet connector together in pairs and then just running the esc input wire into one of the bullet connections for each positive and negative. Or do I split the input wires off into a Y harness? I want to keep it as compact as possible.
Can do either. soldering the bullets with a piece of copper wire running though, grind off copper ends. Heat shrink it up ! soldered bullets is what I use. I also dipped some, edges are thin tho, I don't use these
J.
Question...since everyone seems to be running the Mojo turning fin...On mine there is no torsional angle adjustment on the bracket. There is only front to back adjustment on the fin itself. Is this normal for a curved turn fin? The curved turn fin on my UL-1 has torsional adjustment as well as front/back. Do you just set it to perpendicular to the ride plane? Thanks!
I always run my turn fins completely neutral. No fore/aft tilt and perpendicular to afterplane. I know a lot of folks like to run a little aft tilt to hold the boat down, but it adds drag. Just my opinion.
You'll trap an air bubble inside the jacket. Outlet on top lets the air purge.
Pete, could you have made the bottom sheet a little smaller? LOL... Holly molly, that's a slim fit. Not much extra anywhere. YOu gotta get the bottom just right!
Maybe add an extra 1/16" on he front end?
Nortavlag Bulc
I was pretty happy with he belly skin. I usually make the skins myself. I don't have those slots open on each side. I'm going to skin my sponson before I fill in those two slots. I can weasel clamps through there to clamp my ride pads. I'll post a pic when I do it.
Noisy person
Very cool, thank you Terry!
Nortavlag Bulc
It's a great cut part and fits really nice. I just find there is not much wiggle front to back is all. After this one I still have one more to build and a JAE 33. I figure with what I learned building this first one that the next one should be a fair bit quicker. I need a few more clamps maybe. We will see shortly.
Nortavlag Bulc
I had two framed and sticked in under a week. Would have had both skinned in under 2 weeks but I gave myself lateral epicondylitis block sanding frames. Dough!
Noisy person
I'd stick to that story too if I had Tennis elbow...
Nortavlag Bulc
Those small clamps juuuust barely fit in there and I had to trim the sticks a bit in mine. I wish I bought 2 larger clamps that you used there. I'm not liking how much tension the bottom sheet has when clamped up like that. It's not a wonder why the bottom sheet can tear off in a heavy stuff etc... What do you reinforce that area with to stop the batteries from dumping out into the lake??
I was going to try to pre-bend the sheet but I was concerned that it would get all wavvy and loose it's flatness and profile.
Cough up some more of your secret Davis, lol...
I'm trying to muster up the courage to glue this part up. My clamps are quite large and heavy so I need to use 10lbs counter weight. My clamps are also use old borrowed and not the same Dewalt quality like the little buggers I just bought.
Nortavlag Bulc
I sheet the battery tray with G10. I've used just another layer of wood before too. I also add sticks to the front bulkhead on the inboard side to give the belly skin more too grab on to.
Noisy person
Reinforcing the bottom sheet especially up front where the battery’s went. I used 5k carbon fiber and Inlayed the bottom to increase the floor strength and i can Velcro my lipo's to the floor on my LSH V12 pearl . Just another idea to what I did. AD81115A-1E53-49BB-B272-499D4FEBD8FE.jpg
I try not to remove that cross support on any of my Pearls. We pull about 3G in the turns at 60 mph. A large percentage of that weight hangs from the turn fin. The fin is attached to the bulkhead with that cross support. I try to keep it if I can make it work.
Noisy person
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