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Thread: Black Pearl II Hydro - 2020

  1. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    I would say - If you run an "H" prop (lifting Prop) - Round bottom.
    _ If you run a non lifting prop - Flat Bottom.


    Larry
    If flat do you use a normal length strut or an extended one?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  2. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    OK, back to the build. I sanded the ride pad framework flat in prep for the pads. I usually use this super long sanding block to keep both sides in check.
    Is that an aluminum block or wood? Do you peel off the shelf paper from the backing with the grid pattern on it or do you just leave it on? I need to start gluing up these boats.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  3. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    If flat do you use a normal length strut or an extended one?
    Ray you have a choice of round or flat.
    https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...=ros-spdss-001

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  4. #364
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    Hi Ray. I just leave the backing on.

  5. #365
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    I also agree with Larry's assessment. If you are running a non lifting prop, flat strut.

  6. #366
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    Did some testing on local pond. The video starts on tail end of my run. Still running 1814 prop. I did tilt the turn fin back 1-2mm. It made it stable,predictable can hold full thottle whole time. But did scrub my speed down to 62 from 63mph. Will be racing it next Saturday.

  7. #367
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    Wow Eric. You have it turning very nicely! That thing looks like a handful in the straights though. She's showing a lot of bottom. What is your RTR weight? CG?

  8. #368
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    Pete, my RTR weight 7.4lbs and here my CG

  9. #369
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    Looks good Eric. My boat is almost an entire pound heavier!

  10. #370
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    He's running a small fuel tank
    Nortavlag Bulc

  11. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Looks good Eric. My boat is almost an entire pound heavier!
    Thanks, what is making yours heavier than mine? Don?t know if you?re on facebook.. but if you are, you should join our boat club group.

    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    He's running a small fuel tank
    Don?t really need 10,000Mah. They actually been doing really good.

  12. #372
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    For my 70mph heat race set-up, I'm running (2) 4S 5000's, and I add 5oz of copper at the CG. That probably amounts to most of the weight. My motor may weigh more as well. Personally, I've never been a fan of light boats for heat racing, but they are faster for sure.

  13. #373
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    We had 10k in the Version 11 and the boat is too heavy. It's too heavy on it's own with all the G10 in there. Ended up with 8k on board in the end. Next boat will be lighter.

    I mentioned this in the other thread but I plan to do some build videos of a Pearl this winter. Hope to get started soon. I have three Pearls and a scale to do this winter. Already behind.
    Noisy person

  14. #374
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    I really appreciate the advice and insight to save me some time with figuring things out. Even with this help I'm going to need a LOT of pond time and hopefully find a body of water close by to do some testing.
    Thank you all.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  15. #375
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    I started an older v10.8 last night. I wont document that build as it's an experiment. Might be just a trials runner. I've never built a trial specific boat. Most rigger SAW boats are purpose built. Why not a sport? The question is.......how much to change it? Just go straight or roundy rounds?

    The v12 I'll try to get video of every step. Down side to that is you'll have to listen to me run on about why I do what I do. Annoyingggggg. haha

    Testing is good but laps are better. I know how hard it is to find pond time but actual laps with buoy............there's no substitute. We've seen some of our guys run cars all winter and then turn lap after lap on the pond. It pays dividends. Both with race results and the fun factor. You get to where you trust yourself to go the speeds you built the boat to go. Like being "in the zone". That hand/eye/muscle memory thing is a real. It's what has been missing from my racing for a couple seasons. Just not putting in the time my boats deserve.
    Noisy person

  16. #376
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    Go the TT route...your Pearl builds are already pretty darn fast. Hard to think there's more in them. Bad enough being lapped, any faster and we'll have to make the Davis' spot the field between 1-2 laps head start - kinda make it challenging for ya. The rest of us mere mortals are considering taking up scale - as in tugboats.

    Your driving - uh huh...I watched you and the other MMEU guys driving lots in the races I attended since August. Nothing lacking there! I do agree though that there is absolutely no substitute for running laps around a course. That's why I am prepared to drive 5 hours round trip to spend all day running a course. Looking forward to your build notes!
    Reesor Boat Works

  17. #377
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    Here is Terry's boat running 11s laps, and some in the high 10's. It looks so smooth, you can't even tell how fast it is.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiWbv6ipGaY

    Here is mine. Terry would smoke it in his pipe. 12s laps with one in the mid 11's. GPS was 70mph.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3ssnN1Und0

  18. #378
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    Yeah but I think Tyler was driving Pete. That boat is fast but unpredictable. It will absolutely stuff without warning. It's fat from all the boats it's eaten I guess. It doesn't come off the water fly a bit and then stuff. It submerges out of nowhere. Violently. Almost always comes up upright like fresh water manta ray.

    Steve, the gang is pretty solid. I think at least. I used to run at least 9 times per month. Did that for years. Was a bit better then. Ty races twice a week minimum. Usually more. Then add boats in the summer. Sunday he raced 2 wheel. The transponders track lap consistency. Helps to tell you if your lines are the same lap to lap. He laid down a 5 minute heat with 99.16% consistency. Holy crap. Lapslapslapslapslaps. There is no substitute. Think I'll build this trial sport and bribe him to drive it. Maybe a bag of tires.
    Noisy person

  19. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    For my 70mph heat race set-up, I'm running (2) 4S 5000's, and I add 5oz of copper at the CG. That probably amounts to most of the weight. My motor may weigh more as well. Personally, I've never been a fan of light boats for heat racing, but they are faster for sure.
    I think y’all run bigger motors than me. I’m running TP4050 so it smallish motor. But you’re right light boats don’t do all that well in windy, race waters.
    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Here is Terry's boat running 11s laps, and some in the high 10's. It looks so smooth, you can't even tell how fast it is.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiWbv6ipGaY

    Here is mine. Terry would smoke it in his pipe. 12s laps with one in the mid 11's. GPS was 70mph.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3ssnN1Und0
    Holy sh!t! I got some catching up to do. I need 8 more mph and I will be at 70mph on my P sport.
    But Terry also right about practicing turning laps with buoys.

  20. #380
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    I was finding, with my "P" if I let off of the throttle too fast and too much entering the corner. The tail end would ride up on the prop and stuff.
    I have been playing with the throttle curve to help prevent that.

    Larry
    Last edited by TRUCKPULL; 11-09-2022 at 09:27 PM.
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  21. #381
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    I think that's what we were seeing too Larry. Almost better off to prop down. Slow the boat down so there's no need to check up.

    Using everything we learned on the v11 to build the v12. Every boat gets a little better. The v11 is a good boat but I think I screwed up building it like a brick crap house.
    Noisy person

  22. #382
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    Eric,

    I'm running a TP 4050 as well. 2400Kv.

  23. #383
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    Hi Pete, do you let the glue dry after step 4 before step5? I would think so? TIA...

    And do you use the really wide 2 sided tape or just some 1/2" wide stuff? I'm going to try what I have later today.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  24. #384
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    I have a confession......I don't look at the instructions.
    Noisy person

  25. #385
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    I got the wood building jitters. It's been a while since I've done a sporty and riggers are just square boxes easy peazy. I only cared about the center line in all my Whips because it was too much a pita to use all the squares. They all ran well regardless.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  26. #386
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    Did you see this? Line drawn on my bench perpendicular to the leading edge of the bench. Then I lay wax paper on that so I can epoxy at will.

    V10.8.jpg
    Noisy person

  27. #387
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    I need to get more clamps. Have that same dewalt set of clamps, but wish I had more when building sponsons and such. Right now I can only build one at time. Thanks for the center line tip Terry.

  28. #388
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    Ray has the wood boat jitters!! Haha! Ray, I bet you've probably built more wood boats than me! I would hope Terry doesn't need the instructions. This is his 209th boat, and he designed the sponsons!

  29. #389
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    It's a bit OCD, lol.. I've built a few but Davis might have me beat for sure. Terry's method is a bit more simple and maybe easier for me. Getting the shelf paper to be square WRT to one edge is actually a bit of a challenge for me.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  30. #390
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    Is that an apple juice on the rocks I see there ?

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