Black Pearl II Hydro - 2020

[Ryanj]

I try not to remove that cross support on any of my Pearls. We pull about 3G in the turns at 60 mph. A large percentage of that weight hangs from the turn fin. The fin is attached to the bulkhead with that cross support. I try to keep it if I can make it work.

With no doubt with the upper brace and the added support to the fin to the boat. Just a few ways and preferences to building the boat to desired plan. I removed the upper brace where the batteries lay and sanded a few MM off the bottom brace for the battery's to lay flatter to the floor. lower the battery CG and more forward adjustments. So far since july of last year Club racing the boat handles and runs like a top. 62-65mph the boat will run depending my set up as well. What you mentioned is some good food for thought

[ray schrauwen]

Lots of great info, thanks guys!

I was planning to take a carbon fiber tub ans slice it length wise in half and use it as a front nose block. They come in numerous sizes like 22mm ID etc... Usually only 1mm - 1.5mm thick.

[ray schrauwen]

How thick of ply should I use for the front reinforcement? 1/16" ??

If G-10 then what thickness? I can get .5mm and 1.5mm

[T.S.Davis]

I cut my G10 tube on the band saw which is NOT the best way but hey....use what ya got. Then I drop the piece on my belt sander to get it close to straight.

1/16" ply is plenty Ray. I used 1/32 G10 up there but only because I had it already laying around.

The LSH boats are a bit lighter and take less of a beating when they take flight. The P boats I build like a brick poop house. The extra weight and speed makes landing even on the water.......hateful. Better to just not take flight obviously but sometimes you catch that freak breeze, climb a rooster tail, whatever. Then you don't breath until it lands. Unless Tyler is driving. Then I hold my breath at every pin. He's never more than a sponson away from them.

[ray schrauwen]

Thank you.. O.k. I'll just use some ply. Do you use a size of G10 tube so that there is a bit of overhang (my thinking to lock in both the top and bottom sheet) or jut size it so it's a smooth transition?

I don't want to mess with it's aerodynamics unless it's a benefit. The overhang would only be 1mm

[T.S.Davis]

Well.......I don't have that down to science yet Ray. The one I just did was a little undersized for the LSH so I'll need to fill a bit. I "think" the tube I have is right for the P boat but haven't checked it yet. I would think a tic oversized would be better in truth. Line up the top side and sand back to flush on the bottom side. I don't "think" it's an aero thing but have no data to back that up.

[T.S.Davis]

By the way. Ty's last P sport that was pulling mid 10 second laps had a G10 belly pan. Held up for a number of years but eventually all that bouncing and flex at the battery tray broke the bond between the frames and the G10. It's mechanical bond verses a matrix across the joint with wood. You gain strength from the G10 but only as long as the bonds hold. Opened up like a tuna can once it broke. Not suggesting any shy from G10. Just realize it may not hold forever. Almost like a "choose your poison" sort of thing. Better in spots in my experience.

None of what we're doing with these is necessarily right or necessarily wrong and certainly not bullet proof. They're race boats. If we're not out at the edge are we really having fun? haha

Every boat is an experiment. Build it, break it, race it, or don't, even discover your big idea sucked.........then tweak it, shave it, add to it, subtract from it......or heck.......build another. It's just wood. We learn from every stick. Weird way to think about it but sometimes I feel my boat graveyard is proof I've enjoyed my journey.

[RandyatBBY]

Back to the 31 inch P LTD Sport now that I have the cowl mold done. first one out mold, more pictures to come as I finish.
IMG-3540.jpg
I got a turn fin from Bob at Mojo racing for it too. I hear Terry had a little to do with design.

[ray schrauwen]

I get it now Terry. I'll just build it. Wood is easier to cut than G10 also...

[ray schrauwen]

I wonder why one part was not laser cut? No rear hatch... There is extra wood but I sorta used a bunch for front battery tray reinforcement. I might make a plastic one or if I have spare CF I could use that.

[T.S.Davis]

Here are two of the 4 boats I have going right now. A V10.8 P sized built ultra light and a V12 LSH version

Two Pearls.jpg

[RandyatBBY]

Up date on boat paint time and graphics.
IMG-3565.jpgIMG-3563.jpgIMG-3551.jpgIMG-3552.jpgIMG-3550.jpg

[ray schrauwen]

I'm sorta regretting building a full P Pearl but I'll make it work. I thought before I ordered them that it was just one hull size used in both classes.

Whoops...

Nice build Randy.

[RandyatBBY]

I'm sorta regretting building a full P Pearl but I'll make it work. I thought before I ordered them that it was just one hull size used in both classes.

Whoops...

Nice build Randy.

Thanks Ray, wish you could see the Metalflake it is so pertty. I am going to hve the boat in the water Sunday. About 4 or 5 coats of clear to put on the bottom and back together it goes.

[T.S.Davis]

I'm sorta regretting building a full P Pearl but I'll make it work. I thought before I ordered them that it was just one hull size used in both classes.

Whoops...

Nice build Randy.

Ray, don't hesitate to run the full P in LSH. I know guys that have raced it that way that actually prefer the extra stability. I built one of the early on out of 1/32" ply and no spruce sticks anywhere. Skipped em'. It was a paper light toy. Silly now but then weight was a bigger deal. Used to call it "Mini Pearl" like the lady that wore the hats with tags cuz she was just a little flighty.

[ray schrauwen]

Sounds good I'll give it a try in limited first. If I built it too robust then I could always try full P. Thanks.

I can ease up a bit on some glue and how heavy the finish is. We will see.

[T.S.Davis]

Sounds good I'll give it a try in limited first. If I built it too robust then I could always try full P. Thanks.

I can ease up a bit on some glue and how heavy the finish is. We will see.

This is why I'm so emphatic about keeping my hands clean while I build these days. I'm like a surgeon. I also wipe up any over flow onto flats etc as I build. That way I can leave most of the boat natural finish and just paint some panels. You can save some weight not having to paint the whole boat.

[ray schrauwen]

I agree. I'm not always so good about mopping up but I'm getting better at it. I'm no surgeon, last night while gluing up a ride pad before bed I leaned my head to the side to look and see if it looked o.k. and I put my right ear and hair into the remnant glue on the table. Now that pissed me off having to leave it be while I clamped her up. Good thing it's slow set. Turns out I'm good at cleaning that up. After hoping all the glue was out I doused it with some olive oil to be sure. Left a grease slick on the pillow though...

[ray schrauwen]

So, how would a pair of Yowoo 4000Mah 4S packs fair in this for limited? I see some people are trying them. Mee sa on a budget!

[ray schrauwen]

Better glue the other pad before it gets too late and I spend an hour cleaning the glue off my head again.... At least it's going well... I'd post pics but they're all on my phone and that's a bit of a pain. Maybe later..

[T.S.Davis]

Oh come on Ray! Who hasn't glued their tongue to their front teeth?!

I use 3300's. The Yowoo are decent believe it or not. They do seem to be all or nothing. They are either perfect out of the box or they're stone dead out of the box.

[jingalls007]

So, how would a pair of Yowoo 4000Mah 4S packs fair in this for limited? I see some people are trying them. Mee sa on a budget!

Stick with CNHL for budget packs. My Yawoos (4x 4s packs and 4x 6s packs) all fell below nominal voltage in storage. I had puffing issues from the start. All of my Dinogys bought at the same time, stored at the same voltage, everything the same and they’re still going strong.

[Mike W]

The Pearl Fleet. Q is absolutely insane!

[T.S.Davis]

Stick with CNHL for budget packs. My Yawoos (4x 4s packs and 4x 6s packs) all fell below nominal voltage in storage. I had puffing issues from the start. All of my Dinogys bought at the same time, stored at the same voltage, everything the same and they’re still going strong.

Makes me wonder if it comes down to which batch we get when we order. We raced HRB for a season. Nice construction. Had lots of puffing.

I read nothing but great things about the CNHL. Bought a lot of them. Puffed most of them. Didn't expect that. They are gigantic packs in comparison to everything else. Tried multiple 4s packs and even some 2s2p packs that we ran in series in a scale boat. Burned those to a crisp. Not their fault really. Fire was glorious though.

Then we tried some Yowoo. I was expecting to get what I paid for. They were cheap......er.....inexpensive. No problems yet. Won a lot of races with them but we have had guys buy the Yowoo's's and they show up DOA.

The Roaring Tops have been super consistent. No weirdness that I've seen with those. I may go back to them just for reliability.

I like the manufacturer that Dinogy carries but supply chain reliability varies and they're pricey.

I don't know anymore. Starting to feel like it's a crap shoot every time.

[ezhitz]

Ray what I was running the last couple of years have been the HRB from Amazon running 1 4s 6000 mah in my lsh hydro. I know I’m not running as hard as the guys racing. https://www.amazon.ca/HRB-6000mAh-50...s%2C93&sr=8-38

[Greg Schweers]

I started using CNHL batteries two years ago not a single one has puffed. Last year I race 13 times and 5 boats. For the money you can’t go wrong. I think the only battery with a smaller footprint Are SMC If I was running SAWor 2 lap I would definitely run smc.

[ray schrauwen]

THe trouble with CHNL is that they rarely have stock of what I need when I need them. I don't like buying cells 6 months before I can use them.

[ray schrauwen]

Ray what I was running the last couple of years have been the HRB from Amazon running 1 4s 6000 mah in my lsh hydro. I know I’m not running as hard as the guys racing. https://www.amazon.ca/HRB-6000mAh-50...s%2C93&sr=8-38

I've tried some of those in 4000mah and 3300mah for smaller boats and I was not thrilled at all. It doesn't mean they aren't good but it made me leery of buying the larger packs.

CHNL are quite nice but a pain to buy when needed.

[ray schrauwen]

Makes me wonder if it comes down to which batch we get when we order. We raced HRB for a season. Nice construction. Had lots of puffing.

I read nothing but great things about the CNHL. Bought a lot of them. Puffed most of them. Didn't expect that. They are gigantic packs in comparison to everything else. Tried multiple 4s packs and even some 2s2p packs that we ran in series in a scale boat. Burned those to a crisp. Not their fault really. Fire was glorious though.

Then we tried some Yowoo. I was expecting to get what I paid for. They were cheap......er.....inexpensive. No problems yet. Won a lot of races with them but we have had guys buy the Yowoo's's and they show up DOA.

The Roaring Tops have been super consistent. No weirdness that I've seen with those. I may go back to them just for reliability.

I like the manufacturer that Dinogy carries but supply chain reliability varies and they're pricey.

I don't know anymore. Starting to feel like it's a crap shoot every time.

That's something I'll 100% agree on.

[TRUCKPULL]

I have been using the CHNL for 3 years now. The only dead battery was one that I destroyed.
4- 4000 70C 4S packs for 2 Speck classes.
10 - 5000 70C 4s Packs for "P" classes
4 - 6000 70C 6S Packs for Q class
8 - 6000 70c 4S packs for S class

All packs are under 6 thousands of a volt between all cells.

If you look at all the comparison charts, these packs maintain the lowest Voltage differential between cells under full load
And the second highest volage under full load.
I buy my packs at the end of FEB. when they have their biggest sales with free shipping.

Larry