Last edited by RandyatBBY; 12-20-2022 at 05:08 PM.
any way mote pictures of my BP PLTD. My change to the sponson.
IMG-3361.jpg
I think this will help hold the boat to the water better.
IMG-3359.jpg
IMG-3356.jpg
I am going to have one long opening and only one hatch.
IMG-3357.jpg
IMG-3358.jpg
I got the last deck and nose pieces done, now a little filler and ready to install hardware. I will not be bugging you guys for a while I have a Q sport to build for a friend and two 1/8 scales all wood except the deck and cowl.
Attachment 176178
Wow, you guys have been busy! Family has been sick, so I took a bit of a break from boats. That's a good idea with the flat stock. I've used it for the deck before, but never the skis. Dang it, Eric! What happened???? Randy, those mods look cool! I like the steep recovery pad. She should plane real easy. I'm interested to see how it runs like that. Oh, and Larry...you ARE a pack rat.
I went with the extra-short hatch on the N2. Worked out well with the hardware brackets bonded into the hull and no screws through hull. Doing the same on the Q right now. It should be finished in a couple weeks.
Who else has a Q? Qv12#106 rigged and ready to bond decks:
A Hobbywing motor, neet.
Nortavlag Bulc
What is the purpose of the tiny yellow clamps on the motor mount bulkhead? No weight on top while glue dries?Pearl rear bulkheads.jpg
Nortavlag Bulc
Mike, that N is a work of art.
I have a Q, I have a Q!! :) You are way ahead of me though.
Ray, Good question! Those yellow clamps hold the fore/aft stringers centered between the slots for the spruce sticks. I found sometimes the pcs would drift and cover part of the slots and I'd have to sand the slots larger. You learn a few things after build #52. :)
Just admiring Mike's Q again. That is the cleanest wiring and cleanest cooling line strategy that I've ever seen on any boat. You're a master at your craft!
Thanks so much Pete! After resisting both hydros and wood builds for years I'm hooked on both and can't get enough. For those unaware I build custom boats exclusively every day so if you've been putting off owning one of these because of the build I'm eager to build one for you!
The Q is ready for nose and seam reinforcements with 6 oz. cloth, epoxy sealing and primer:
Otto RC Marine
Thank you! I'm learning as I go now. I'm just planning out the first gluing of the rear section. I want a n assembly plan so it all goes smoothly and I don't forget anything like having enough weights to keep it all straight.
It's really odd that I went and searched out some Duck brand shelf paper and the backing is not glue safe like yours. Same brand and same paper as far as I can see but glue sticks to mine so there is a layer of parchment on top.
The grid lines really do help a lot and it's almost like they were thought of when you designed the hull since the center motor mount section stringers line right up with a pair of grid lines.
I also pre-bent the outer stringers so I do not have to use very much weight at all to keep them exactly where they need to be. I really don't like leaving any tension in a wood part when that tension doesn't create strength. Heck maybe I'm wrong and talking through my hat?
Nortavlag Bulc
Doesn't add strength or anything but when I put the motor mount stringers in place I clamp everything to 1-2-3 blocks so it ends up square. Just looks more gooder. I sometimes add mahogany sticks where the motor plate and stringers meet the tub. Depends on the abuse I'm planning to put the boat through.
Noisy person
Cool, thanks Mr.T.
You can actually pre-glue the motor mount bulkhead and stringers before you do the whole rear section. It makes it more simple to do as it just drops in.
Nortavlag Bulc
Wow. I never thought of doing that! Good call!!
Hi Pete,
Any movement on the Xcat plans
Happy New year, Jay.
Stagnant. Little free time these days.
Ugh!! I get it tho !! I'm 15 year's ahead of you, my kids are 20/30 now.
Cheers, Jay,
I have the rear all tacked up well. The front I'm trying to understand tilting the boat forward. I get that the formers all need to be flat however I don't know how high to raise the rear? It seems that is variable.
Nortavlag Bulc
Hi Ray. I could give you the dimension the rear has to be raised. I'm planning on designing a jig for that eventually. I think I had a picture in a previous post.
I think mine was about 37mm high. I glued it up yesterday and it's now upside down to get the little bits glued in. Then comes the sticks etc...
I don't have nice clamps to do the bottom bits so I'll improvise. So far so good. It's a really nice kit to build.
Nortavlag Bulc
Bookmarks