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Thread: Black Pearl II Hydro - 2020

  1. #61
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    Nice build as usual Pete!

    I would encourage you to greatly reduce the rear sheeting length. That much depth to the interior rear transom makes working on transom hardware a PIA!. Heck you could make a rear "bait box" in turn shortening your vacuum molded cowling. The long flat section of the cowling is the weakest anyhow. Just food for thought.

    Eventually I am going to finish/build one of these super fast designs!

  2. #62
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    I like this idea. That front two frame pcs could have the contour of the nose in them. I hate taping with a hump though.... ugh.

    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    Pete, a nose of sorts that's attached to the front of the tube. Maybe a laser cut piece of bass wood. Contour file and sand that to blend with a canopy with the canopy tape line on top. Sorta like the tape line on a Thomas.

  3. #63
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    Thanks Mike. Yeah, I've been so focused on reducing the length of the canopy to fit my new vacuum former that I forgot about the option of making a well or a separate cavity. Definitely will incorporate that.

    If you set a record with the obsolete design, I can't imagine what you could do with the "SUPER FAST" version!

    Quote Originally Posted by longballlumber View Post
    Nice build as usual Pete!

    I would encourage you to greatly reduce the rear sheeting length. That much depth to the interior rear transom makes working on transom hardware a PIA!. Heck you could make a rear "bait box" in turn shortening your vacuum molded cowling. The long flat section of the cowling is the weakest anyhow. Just food for thought.

    Eventually I am going to finish/build one of these super fast designs!

  4. #64
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    Hi Pete, We did the formed wood nose screwed and glued to the canopy with a 1/16 step up, about an inch back from the front edge of the canopy where you can slide the tape under the nose so you don't have to tape over the hump.
    If you like I can send you a pic of grape nutz with Larry's canopy. Need your email address.
    Cheers, Jay.

  5. #65
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    Jay, text it to me and I'll post it here for you.
    Noisy person

  6. #66
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    Sanded, sealed, and sanded again. Ready for hardware and primer.

    I also cut parts for the P-Sport boat. Just finished sanding all the burn marks from the laser with the palm sander. I know it's not necessary, but it sure makes the boat look cleaner. I also laser cut the first 'skins' to see how they will fit.
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  7. #67
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    Looking good Pete!!! We had so much water down here in Bama I could have just tossed a boat out the front door!!!
    JOHN A. GROSS
    MILLBROOK, AL
    Crickety Crack Racing Team

  8. #68
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    Caught myself referring to this new boat as the Mini Pearl again. Maybe hang a tag off an antenna tube or something.
    Noisy person

  9. #69
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    I'm making a lot of progress on the full P boat. The bottom width is just slightly over 12" , so we will need two separate bottom sheets. This might better define the kick-up angle. I will miss the straight line on the full length of the bottom sheet though, as it helps keep the build straight, but we will still have that from the bulkhead back.
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  10. #70
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    Just get a 24" wide sheet.
    Noisy person

  11. #71
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    Yep. I was thinking long term......for kitting/shipping.

    More progress on the P.
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  12. #72
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    Installed the stuffing tube in the LSH. Used WS and about 20pcs of very thin glass strips. I also started adding fillets to inside radii using WS and micro balloons whenever I have extra epoxy. I honestly think this is what separates a boat that has a cup of water in it after a run, and a boat that is bone dry!
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  13. #73
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    Everything we took to Florida was stone dry. Even Ty's Stealth. We stuffed all his new Futaba gear in balloons just in case too. We'll leave em in there. Why tempt fate right?

    That rough water did de-laminate the deck on the outside sponson of Ty's Pearl. Couple inches at the outside edge. Thanks to some Tyvek tape from Jay he didn't miss a heat. Adding that to my tool box for sure. All fixed now. It's the only failure we've had with the G10 boat. Some of us were wondering about that epoxy bond to the G10. Debatable whether it was the bond or just Tyler pushing harder than was necessary in horrible water. You know how he is. Especially if he sees an opportunity to lap someone he can give the business to later. He did but no razzing that I saw.
    Noisy person

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    I also started adding fillets to inside radii using WS and micro balloons whenever I have extra epoxy.
    I'll be doing this to the Whip40 I'm building for Danno too. Joints need attention if they're going to stay together.
    Noisy person

  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Installed the stuffing tube in the LSH. Used WS and about 20pcs of very thin glass strips. I also started adding fillets to inside radii using WS and micro balloons whenever I have extra epoxy. I honestly think this is what separates a boat that has a cup of water in it after a run, and a boat that is bone dry!
    Why all the hassle with tiny (20pcs) of glass vs. 1-3 normal sizes? Isn't that the point of using glass because it conforms to complex shapes and curves? Seems like extra work... Just my 2 pennies.

    How did you get such a nice, consistent fillet?

  16. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    Everything we took to Florida was stone dry. Even Ty's Stealth. We stuffed all his new Futaba gear in balloons just in case too. We'll leave em in there. Why tempt fate right?
    I would caution the use of balloons around any receiver. You run the risk of condensation inside, it traps heat in the RX not allow it to breath, and IF you do get water in the boat what guarantee's your not getting moisture inside...

    Try building a tray or shelf to elevate the RX above the hull floor. You could also take another step by putting a kitchen sponge around the perimeter of the elevated RX to minimize water "splashing" around.

  17. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by longballlumber View Post
    I would caution the use of balloons around any receiver. You run the risk of condensation inside, it traps heat in the RX not allow it to breath, and IF you do get water in the boat what guarantee's your not getting moisture inside...

    Try building a tray or shelf to elevate the RX above the hull floor. You could also take another step by putting a kitchen sponge around the perimeter of the elevated RX to minimize water "splashing" around.
    Great stuff. Thanks Mike. Changes will be made.
    Noisy person

  18. #78
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    The red tuck tape is no longer code in Ontario. The new blue tuck tape is even more sticky, horrible if you have a beard and a gust of wind !!
    I find the balloons a PIA, so I use press and seal plastic wrap . It seals out splash water really well around the wires in/out of the RX. Worked great for my 24 hr submersion at the Michigan cup some years ago (p-mono) popped up at the start of the next days race!
    Cheers, Jay.

  19. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    Everything we took to Florida was stone dry. Even Ty's Stealth. We stuffed all his new Futaba gear in balloons just in case too. We'll leave em in there. Why tempt fate right?

    That rough water did de-laminate the deck on the outside sponson of Ty's Pearl. Couple inches at the outside edge. Thanks to some Tyvek tape from Jay he didn't miss a heat. Adding that to my tool box for sure. All fixed now. It's the only failure we've had with the G10 boat. Some of us were wondering about that epoxy bond to the G10. Debatable whether it was the bond or just Tyler pushing harder than was necessary in horrible water. You know how he is. Especially if he sees an opportunity to lap someone he can give the business to later. He did but no razzing that I saw.
    Getting the deck to adhere is the most difficult IMO. You can't really get underneath to glass in the seams. I remember talking to Sean years ago. He covered the entire boat in lightweight glass. That would do it!

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by longballlumber View Post
    Why all the hassle with tiny (20pcs) of glass vs. 1-3 normal sizes? Isn't that the point of using glass because it conforms to complex shapes and curves? Seems like extra work... Just my 2 pennies.

    How did you get such a nice, consistent fillet?
    But I like extra work! What other excuse am I going to use to enjoy ginger ales in the basement! Seriously, I like to overlap them and create cross hatching. Seems to create a really strong bond. I bet the amount of epoxy I use is equivalent to a drop!

  21. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by longballlumber View Post

    How did you get such a nice, consistent fillet?
    I actually just used my finger! (wearing rubber glove)

  22. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    But I like extra work! What other excuse am I going to use to enjoy ginger ales in the basement! Seriously, I like to overlap them and create cross hatching. Seems to create a really strong bond. I bet the amount of epoxy I use is equivalent to a drop!
    That fabric cutting wheel and mat makes quick work of veil cloth. You could cut 50 pieces in 2 minutes if you went really slow and drug it out. What a great investment of $25 that thing is.

    Why has it not occur to me to use that veil at the outside edge of the sponson? Just cut a strip and lay it on. It would be nothing to fill that. Even with a clear finish I think it would vanish. Better than nothing.
    Noisy person

  23. #83
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    Good call. Maybe just a strip around the perimeter.

    Yeah, that cutting wheel is amazing. Perfect edge glass strips in seconds. I usually lay a sheet of glass out and cut a grid pattern of about 100pcs. Then, pick them up with the brush and dab them on. Planning on glassing all the seams tonight.

  24. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Good call. Maybe just a strip around the perimeter.

    Yeah, that cutting wheel is amazing. Perfect edge glass strips in seconds. I usually lay a sheet of glass out and cut a grid pattern of about 100pcs. Then, pick them up with the brush and dab them on. Planning on glassing all the seams tonight.
    great job on the boat , I know about those ginger ales in the basement , what's a fabric cutting wheel ?

  25. #85
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    Anybody that fiddles with glass should own this. Get the mat for cutting on too.

    https://www.fiskars.com/en-us/crafti...ats-and-rulers
    Noisy person

  26. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    Anybody that fiddles with glass should own this. Get the mat for cutting on too.

    https://www.fiskars.com/en-us/crafti...ats-and-rulers
    Thanks got what you suggested !

  27. #87
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    Well, it's been a couple weeks since I've been able to post. Hope everyone is doing OK. What a crazy time to be alive!

    The P-Sport is moving along nicely. The deck is on. Installing the turn fin. I ordered the hardware last night.
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  28. #88
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    Pete
    What are the measurements of the battery space, side to side and front to back?

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  29. #89
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    On the small one the more important dimension was the height. Really shallow at the nose.
    Noisy person

  30. #90
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    Hey Larry, On the P-Sport size boat, the tubwidth is 148mm (wall to wall on the inside) and the length to put reasonably sized batteries is 165mm. You could probably get thinner Batts to tuck further under the nose though. Like Terry said, the nose really dips down aggressively.

    I installed the nose deck last night. Took Ball's advice and divided the back hatch into two openings. A lot of work sizing and sanding.
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