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Thread: Black Pearl II Hydro - 2020

  1. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaike5 View Post
    Is that an apple juice on the rocks I see there ?
    Scotch. Glenmorangie LaSanta 12 year old.

    I've always built on a setup board. This new work bench is so nice I could build more than one at a time. Wonder what I could git fer one built.

    BTW If you don't have a work bench like this that you can just draw a line on like I did, you can tape a big piece of paper to your kitchen counter. Wives love this build technique. Or you could tape a number of 8.5x11 pieces together and tape those to the counter. Then draw the square line on that. Lay some wax paper over that. Just trying to help. You have to check your counter top though. They aren't always flat like you would hope.
    Noisy person

  2. #392
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    I just realized how many clamps I own. This isn't even all of them.

    V10.8 - sponsons.jpg
    Noisy person

  3. #393
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    Is that the Q? I just started mine tonight. I'll have to pick up that bottom sheet this week. Maybe Q is the new P. . Less amps. More reasonable speed for the size. I miss running Q's on our pond.

  4. #394
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    Stay away from my office. Three down with RSV. I haven't even been there this week.

    That's my v10.8 P. Building ultra light. Same hull Ty raced for a couple years. The one he lapped Haynes with. haha Shooting for 6 pounds rtr.
    Noisy person

  5. #395
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    I started my Q. Almost a total fail. I realized the build board was warped while positioning the frame. Eeek!! I managed to transfer everything over to a piece of granite with paper, centerline, and wax paper. Ran some new glue over the joints. Without the gridlines there is no 90deg reference for the transom. I ended up drawing a perpendicular line for reference.
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  6. #396
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    Pete, that a good thing you caught it!

  7. #397
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    Jack Lalane! Bet you've had those since you were a kid.
    Noisy person

  8. #398
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    Family heirlooms.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  9. #399
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    So if you guys are running so much weight in the nose and it?s nose heavy, how do you get it started on plane without submarining?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #400
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    Give it a little Burp of throttle, then as the boat comes backward, hit it.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  11. #401
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    I think the extra weight goes at cog.
    J.

  12. #402
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    Giving left rudder will help it get up.
    :canada

  13. #403
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    May 2018
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    Finished my N2. It just needs paint, and is waiting on some others before that happens. All mounts are integrated CF plate so no screws through hull, transom is inaccessible. Should be much lighter! It needs to be at 27" but should outperform anything else on the course with the advantage of size and handling. Water conditions are often the demise of a good N2 run. The Q is on the board now!
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  14. #404
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    Absolutely gorgeous, as usual, Mike.

  15. #405
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    I've been using this method to build the front portion of the frame for a couple years now. I think this step is the most important of the entire build. The bottom of the sponson frame pcs sit flush to the build surface to ensure they are all on the same plane while curing. I use the gridlines to position them so they are square. The transom is raised up above the build surface, so I put a spacer underneath each side to ensure there is no transom twist. A square frame with no twist will sit flat on the sponson ride pads when tipped forward, and the transom should sit flat if tipped backwards.
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  16. #406
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    In another life, I'll add toy tabs in these locations to make it easier to build.
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  17. #407
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    Here's another shot of the front frame position with the stand-offs on the back. Maybe we could cut out a jig for this if there is extra room on the sheet? It could have a flat side and another side that has the angle of the AOA on the sponsons and could slide underneath the frame?
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  18. #408
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    I appreciate all these insights.

    When you say to sand the burn marks with no lower than 220 grit, do you mean all the slots or the slots and some of the part faces?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  19. #409
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    Hi Ray,

    Only the faces, not the edges. It is typically only on the back face where the smoke from the laser is exhausted. Lately, I've been keeping all the parts in the sheet, laying the sheet onto a flat surface, then hitting it with a palm sander. That way I don't round off any of the edges. It makes the build a lot cleaner looking without all those nasty burn marks, otherwise, they will just be sealed in for life!

  20. #410
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    O.k. that's a great idea. I thought the slots where the pieces fit together also need some sanding because of the burning?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  21. #411
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    It seems epoxy would definitely adhere better to "non-burned" surfaces, but I've never had a problem not sanding the edges. The joints are heavily reinforced in later steps when the glass strips are layed in. The framing is mostly just to tack things together, although I've found frames to still be very strong with West Systems.

  22. #412
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    Wow. Here I was in the past trying to clean the burn marks out of the slots, lol... I am learning a lot from you Pete.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  23. #413
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    I sand every slot. Not crystal clean or anything. Just some. When I seal I use thinned epoxy. My thinking is that it can soak in to the joint a bit in the process. I wipe every flat surface after my thinned mixture has cured a bit but those joints I let sponge.

    The trick part about sanding slots is that you have to keep washing your hands. You will get soot on them and it will make the wood surfaces look horrible. If you want to eventually have a wood finish, wash yer hands constantly.

    Latest pic of my 10.8 attached.
    V10.8 - canopy.jpg
    Noisy person

  24. #414
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    I have the V12 version and just a great hydro man. Have you made any new changes or improvements since the version 12.




    Black Pearl.jpg
    Last edited by Ryanj; 11-29-2022 at 04:22 PM.

  25. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryanj View Post
    I have the V12 version and just a great hydro man. Have you made any new changes or improvements since the version 12.
    None that I know of......despite my whining.
    Noisy person

  26. #416
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    Maybe you are learning how do things 'wrong' from me, Ray!

    Terry, that is nuts, as usual. I think I asked what it eats last time.

    Ryan, I love the green and white scheme.

  27. #417
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    I'm a little behind you Terry. Getting ready to install the bottom on the Q. Also, started the framework for the Q cowl. These boats are a labor of love, for sure.
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  28. #418
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    alright....Mid 2022 race season the boat raced well for my club , so 2023 season is coming and Planning ahead.

  29. #419
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    Thank you on the color scheme as it came out well. 2nd place to end the race season in my club. So hats off good competitive boat in my club. Looking forward to 2023.

  30. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    I sand every slot. Not crystal clean or anything. Just some. When I seal I use thinned epoxy. My thinking is that it can soak in to the joint a bit in the process. I wipe every flat surface after my thinned mixture has cured a bit but those joints I let sponge.

    The trick part about sanding slots is that you have to keep washing your hands. You will get soot on them and it will make the wood surfaces look horrible. If you want to eventually have a wood finish, wash yer hands constantly.

    Latest pic of my 10.8 attached.
    V10.8 - canopy.jpg
    Nice, looks angry.

    Yeah, I notice that mess too. I am almost ready to get started. Something was off and it appears it was my square, bent. I just borrowed a proper one so now I can set up the build board and then pull parts to sand.

    Since I cold not get a nice aluminum (long) sanding block I had to make some out of oak. Those Great Planes sanding blocks Pete shows are a thing of the past. Dubro has taken over and doesn't make the long one.
    Nortavlag Bulc

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