Black Pearl II Hydro - 2020

[RandyatBBY]

Randy it looks like you screwed the transom down to the build board.

Yup
edit; I was thinking about the real reason for the screw. I use to locate the hull to the building board. I remove the hull from the building board several times this makes sure it is allways in the same spot when I put it back on.

[T.S.Davis]

Terry
Do you mean like this?


Larry

Yes but something stiffer. I always have random pieces of crap laying around my shop to use. I'm like a junk collector. The struggle is real.

[TRUCKPULL]

Yes but something stiffer. I always have random pieces of crap laying around my shop to use. I'm like a junk collector. The struggle is real.

My wife calls me a Pack Rat.

Larry

[RandyatBBY]

My wife calls me a Pack Rat.

Larry

Mine too, but she allways will come to me for help with her project. I guess it is on a everything in my life scale not just RC boats. I built a green huse with her this fall.

[RandyatBBY]

any way mote pictures of my BP PLTD. My change to the sponson.
IMG-3361.jpg
I think this will help hold the boat to the water better.
IMG-3359.jpg
IMG-3356.jpg
I am going to have one long opening and only one hatch.
IMG-3357.jpg
IMG-3358.jpg

[RandyatBBY]

other skin on the BP
IMG-3362.jpg
IMG-3368.jpg

[RandyatBBY]

I got the last deck and nose pieces done, now a little filler and ready to install hardware. I will not be bugging you guys for a while I have a Q sport to build for a friend and two 1/8 scales all wood except the deck and cowl.
Attachment 176178

[Shooter]

Wow, you guys have been busy! Family has been sick, so I took a bit of a break from boats. That's a good idea with the flat stock. I've used it for the deck before, but never the skis. Dang it, Eric! What happened???? Randy, those mods look cool! I like the steep recovery pad. She should plane real easy. I'm interested to see how it runs like that. Oh, and Larry...you ARE a pack rat.

[Mike W]

I went with the extra-short hatch on the N2. Worked out well with the hardware brackets bonded into the hull and no screws through hull. Doing the same on the Q right now. It should be finished in a couple weeks.

[eric113]

I went with the extra-short hatch on the N2. Worked out well with the hardware brackets bonded into the hull and no screws through hull. Doing the same on the Q right now. It should be finished in a couple weeks.

Looks great! Cool concept on the brackets.

[Mike W]

Who else has a Q? Qv12#106 rigged and ready to bond decks:

[ray schrauwen]

A Hobbywing motor, neet.

[ray schrauwen]

I started my Q. Almost a total fail. I realized the build board was warped while positioning the frame. Eeek!! I managed to transfer everything over to a piece of granite with paper, centerline, and wax paper. Ran some new glue over the joints. Without the gridlines there is no 90deg reference for the transom. I ended up drawing a perpendicular line for reference.

What is the purpose of the tiny yellow clamps on the motor mount bulkhead? No weight on top while glue dries?Pearl rear bulkheads.jpg

[Shooter]

Mike, that N is a work of art.

I have a Q, I have a Q!! :) You are way ahead of me though.

Ray, Good question! Those yellow clamps hold the fore/aft stringers centered between the slots for the spruce sticks. I found sometimes the pcs would drift and cover part of the slots and I'd have to sand the slots larger. You learn a few things after build #52. :)

[Shooter]

Just admiring Mike's Q again. That is the cleanest wiring and cleanest cooling line strategy that I've ever seen on any boat. You're a master at your craft!

[Mike W]

Just admiring Mike's Q again. That is the cleanest wiring and cleanest cooling line strategy that I've ever seen on any boat. You're a master at your craft!

Thanks so much Pete! After resisting both hydros and wood builds for years I'm hooked on both and can't get enough. For those unaware I build custom boats exclusively every day so if you've been putting off owning one of these because of the build I'm eager to build one for you!

The Q is ready for nose and seam reinforcements with 6 oz. cloth, epoxy sealing and primer:

[ray schrauwen]

Mike, that N is a work of art.

I have a Q, I have a Q!! :) You are way ahead of me though.

Ray, Good question! Those yellow clamps hold the fore/aft stringers centered between the slots for the spruce sticks. I found sometimes the pcs would drift and cover part of the slots and I'd have to sand the slots larger. You learn a few things after build #52. :)

Thank you! I'm learning as I go now. I'm just planning out the first gluing of the rear section. I want a n assembly plan so it all goes smoothly and I don't forget anything like having enough weights to keep it all straight.

It's really odd that I went and searched out some Duck brand shelf paper and the backing is not glue safe like yours. Same brand and same paper as far as I can see but glue sticks to mine so there is a layer of parchment on top.

The grid lines really do help a lot and it's almost like they were thought of when you designed the hull since the center motor mount section stringers line right up with a pair of grid lines.

I also pre-bent the outer stringers so I do not have to use very much weight at all to keep them exactly where they need to be. I really don't like leaving any tension in a wood part when that tension doesn't create strength. Heck maybe I'm wrong and talking through my hat?

[ray schrauwen]

Who else has a Q? Qv12#106 rigged and ready to bond decks:

Where does your esc water pickup source? Nice build!!

[T.S.Davis]

Doesn't add strength or anything but when I put the motor mount stringers in place I clamp everything to 1-2-3 blocks so it ends up square. Just looks more gooder. I sometimes add mahogany sticks where the motor plate and stringers meet the tub. Depends on the abuse I'm planning to put the boat through.

[ray schrauwen]

Cool, thanks Mr.T.

You can actually pre-glue the motor mount bulkhead and stringers before you do the whole rear section. It makes it more simple to do as it just drops in.

[Mike W]

Where does your esc water pickup source? Nice build!!

Just a dual-pickup rudder.

[T.S.Davis]

You can actually pre-glue the motor mount bulkhead and stringers before you do the whole rear section. It makes it more simple to do as it just drops in.

That's how I do it too. One less thing to align.

[Shooter]

Wow. I never thought of doing that! Good call!!

[jaike5]

Hi Pete,
Any movement on the Xcat plans
Happy New year, Jay.

[Shooter]

Stagnant. Little free time these days.

[jaike5]

Ugh!! I get it tho !! I'm 15 year's ahead of you, my kids are 20/30 now.
Cheers, Jay,

[ray schrauwen]

I have the rear all tacked up well. The front I'm trying to understand tilting the boat forward. I get that the formers all need to be flat however I don't know how high to raise the rear? It seems that is variable.

[T.S.Davis]

Stagnant. Little free time these days.

I get about an hour a day. This scale is killing me though.

[Shooter]

Hi Ray. I could give you the dimension the rear has to be raised. I'm planning on designing a jig for that eventually. I think I had a picture in a previous post.

[ray schrauwen]

I think mine was about 37mm high. I glued it up yesterday and it's now upside down to get the little bits glued in. Then comes the sticks etc...

I don't have nice clamps to do the bottom bits so I'll improvise. So far so good. It's a really nice kit to build.