Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: 36 inch vintage atlas van lines Dumas build

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    6

    Default 36 inch vintage atlas van lines Dumas build

    I need some opinions on putting in a Leopard 4082 1600 kv with a 180 seaking esc in a vintage old style sport 40 dumas Atlas Van Lines kit. Is this a strong enough combo to use for sport running. It is 36 inches long. Should the strut exit thru the floor or be transom mounted like the RTR hydros. This is my first attempt at converting to electric. Is this hull suitable for this kind of conversion? i am open to all suggestions. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    29

    Default

    I did something similar.The exact same motor and speed control running on 6-S in a Dumas pay n pack that I had built as a nitro boat about 30years ago.The boat is 32" in length so not quite as big as yours but let me tell you it had power to spare. Much stronger and faster than the Pico .21 nitro engine it had back in its day. My biggest problem was trying to keep the inside dry. The way it was set up originally it had a water proof radio box but the rest was almost unprotected as many nitro boats were and the hatch just wasn't designed for a tape on seal. I ran it with a solid straight shaft that exited out the bottom of the hull, the stock Dumas hardware that came with the kit when I built it. I would think you have plenty of horse power as is for your 36" hull. Let us know how it goes. Hope your hatch set up allows you to keep it dry.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    6

    Default good tips

    Quote Originally Posted by Panchothedog View Post
    I did something similar.The exact same motor and speed control running on 6-S in a Dumas pay n pack that I had built as a nitro boat about 30years ago.The boat is 32" in length so not quite as big as yours but let me tell you it had power to spare. Much stronger and faster than the Pico .21 nitro engine it had back in its day. My biggest problem was trying to keep the inside dry. The way it was set up originally it had a water proof radio box but the rest was almost unprotected as many nitro boats were and the hatch just wasn't designed for a tape on seal. I ran it with a solid straight shaft that exited out the bottom of the hull, the stock Dumas hardware that came with the kit when I built it. I would think you have plenty of horse power as is for your 36" hull. Let us know how it goes. Hope your hatch set up allows you to keep it dry.
    Thanks for the tips. I have modified the hatch by adding a tailfin anyway so i will figure out a seal system. May i inquire as to what prop size you run on this setup? I am thinking an X445 or x447 to start with.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    29

    Default

    I think I ran a prather p -220 which is just a tiny bit smaller than the x-445 but has a bit more pitch,and one time I put on a x-448 and it was very very fast but also very uncontrollable . I think your choices of x445 or x447 are a perfect starting point .

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Ql
    Posts
    2,988

    Default

    On boats that have a tricky cowling to seal, I always just tape down a flat sub hatch over the opening in the hull to seal it, & then hold down the main cowling with screws, hatch locks, or magnets etc.
    Here's an example.

    Ply sub hatches.

    m_004.jpg

    Cowling in place over sub hatches.

    m_005.jpg

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •