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Thread: Water jacket stuck on motor...

  1. #1
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    Default Water jacket stuck on motor...

    Big fail here. I'm trying to get my leopard 4050 jacket onto the 4074 motor. I greased the o-rings and motor housing but perhaps not enough. It's on but just barely (not on far enough) and I CAN'T BUDGE IT ANY MORE. I can't get it off to add more grease, or advance it into the proper position...

    Is there any easy trick out there?
    Thanks,
    Andre

  2. #2
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    If it's that difficult, you have the wrong size O-rings in the jacket or the jacket isn't sized correctly. I've had some 40mm jackets fit better than others on various brands of 40mm motors. Are you installing a Leopard jacket on a Leopard motor?
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    If it's that difficult, you have the wrong size O-rings in the jacket or the jacket isn't sized correctly. I've had some 40mm jackets fit better than others on various brands of 40mm motors. Are you installing a Leopard jacket on a Leopard motor?
    Thank you, yes - it's the leopard 40mm sized jacket made specifically for this motor (leopard 4074). It went on smooth without the O rings when I tested it...

    It's so tight now I can't even get it to turn at all. I tried some lubricant spray on it but of course it doesn't get past the O ring seal.

    Frustrating!

  4. #4
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    Put a couple of screws into the mounting holes. Then gently close vice jaws around the shaft, so you can twist the water jacket without the motor housing turning too.
    Ron - The Villages, FL

    https://castawaysboatworx.org/

  5. #5
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    I will try that, thanks!

  6. #6
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    also heat expands metal. try a hair dryer on the jacket until its nice and warm then it should be able to turn.

  7. #7
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    Great, I'll do that too!

  8. #8
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    Put some oil inside the jacket where the water goes.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  9. #9
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    edit: I see Larry just beat me to the answer

    inject a few drops of some oil and heat the just jacket

  10. #10
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    Thanks - I'll try some different oil. The only thing I sprayed in there was some "release-all", but that didn't seem to help, even with a big volume of it and lots of soak time. I tried heating the jacket before that, but I'll try the heat in combination with the oil. What oil would you recommend?

  11. #11
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    Some of these jackets take a lot of effort to get them on. I've had some that take every bit of strength and body weight I had.

  12. #12
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    Some of the water jackets vary on the depth of the O ring groove, this is on the same make motors along with the same make water jackets. I have had a few jackets that were nigh on impossible to get onto the motor even using oil/grease etc. Where the O ring groove is machined to shallow in the jacket i put them up in the lathe & skim the groove deeper & they then go on a treat & also dont tear the silicon O rings getting them on.

  13. #13
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    If you do get it off try using dish washing, like Dawn, to lubricate the O rings, super slippery and easy to get off next time

  14. #14
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    I think he is still trying to get the jacket off. could always call 911.

  15. #15
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    spray it up with WD 40 let just the water jacket rest on a vice edge in a way your not going to chew it up ,, upright with the jaws open just enough to catch the water jacket and let the motor fall threw motor shaft side down tap the motor body not the shaft with a plastic hammer go back and forth on all sides of the housing never seen this not work

  16. #16
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    All good post.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dasboata View Post
    spray it up with WD 40 let just the water jacket rest on a vice edge in a way your not going to chew it up ,, upright with the jaws open just enough to catch the water jacket and let the motor fall threw motor shaft side down tap the motor body not the shaft with a plastic hammer go back and forth on all sides of the housing never seen this not work
    Yes, I will have to try this next. I'm beyond frustrated at this point. I've filled the water jacket with oil, let it soak, heated the jacket nice and hot with a hair dryer (hard not to also heat the motor) and it just wont budge. Going on 3 days of trying so far. It's like it's fused in place. Both water outlet/inlets snapped off, which is also annoying.

    I'd attach a picture, but I'm not sure how it would help, and the upload function doesn't seem to be working...

  18. #18
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    maybe if you give up how about a cut off wheel on the dremmel, for the cost of a new jacket and no more stress its worth the dollars.

  19. #19
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    What I do to crack a seal on a water jacket that has been on a motor for a long time is lube it up both inside the jacket & the outside of the motor.
    Put some jaw protectors in the vice, & open the vice so that one jaw is on the motor & the other is on the edge of the jacket. Then close the vice a tad until the jacket moves.
    Then rotate the motor 180 degrees & squeeze a bit more. Keep doing that until it is flush with the face of the motor.
    Once the jacket has moved to flush with the face of the motor, proceed with placing the end of the shaft on the bench & pushing down on the jacket.
    m_003.jpg

    m_002.jpg

  20. #20
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    I've used a similar approach to 785, but with oversized sockets used as press adapters.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  21. #21
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    Default Works Every Time

    Just reach into your parts draw & pull out an early Harley transmission clutch hub/ mainshaft nut, anchor the motor over a spark plug socket, slide the nut over the motor so that it contacts the water jacket. Lube generously , Hammer around the nut (use a drift to help the accuracy of the "taps") The degree of success depends on your degree of enthusiasm with the "taps".

    Jacket 20190823_132501_resized (1).jpg

    Posts 15 & 19 are the easiest & simplest (especially if you only have two hands)
    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
    2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
    '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by properchopper View Post
    Just reach into your parts draw & pull out an early Harley transmission clutch hub/ mainshaft nut, anchor the motor over a spark plug socket, slide the nut over the motor so that it contacts the water jacket. Lube generously , Hammer around the nut (use a drift to help the accuracy of the "taps") The degree of success depends on your degree of enthusiasm with the "taps".

    Jacket 20190823_132501_resized (1).jpg

    Posts 15 & 19 are the easiest & simplest (especially if you only have two hands)
    These are all great, and entertaining, suggestions.
    Sadly, nothing is working. But here's the thing - the jacket is on, just a touch beyond being flush with the motor. And it fits in my mount. And the boat. I'm assuming that it doesn't matter that it is completely biased to the shaft end of the motor. Any reason I shouldn't run it like that?

    Thanks again everyone.

  23. #23
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    There's no reason that you can't run it like that.
    But be sure to do a water pressure test on the can first, before you install it, to check for leaks.
    You may have split an O ring or rolled one out of its groove. That may even be the reason that it is so hard to move the can in the first place.

  24. #24
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    Yes, it doesn,t take much to roll an o-ring when fitting the jacket to motor can.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    There's no reason that you can't run it like that.
    But be sure to do a water pressure test on the can first, before you install it, to check for leaks.
    You may have split an O ring or rolled one out of its groove. That may even be the reason that it is so hard to move the can in the first place.
    Good advice - any way to properly look for leaks? Are people using pumps or something? I just blocked the exit flow and forced as much pressure (using my mouth on the tubing) through the jacket...

  26. #26
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    That should be enough to spot any leaks as long as you fill the can with water first.
    I use a large syringe to fill the can & then block the exit while keeping pressure on the syringe.

  27. #27
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    Why not check the whole system while you're at it. Nothing spoils a day at the lake worse than when an internal leak somewhere along the cooling path fills the boat up and down she goes ( because you decided to do that "one test run" before adding the flotation ).

    Diver Down

    rig one of these up

    water best 20190824_143639_resized.jpg
    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
    2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
    '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

  28. #28
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    use your mouth. the water jacket doesn,t hold much water atall as so the lines so just take a drink of water and let it out via the water line until water comes out the overflow end then block it and blow harder. you don,t need to over compress the watercooling as when the boat is running , the water is free flowing and not really under any pressures.

  29. #29
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    20190921_200136.jpg

    Well, after about 10 runs of 3 min or less, temps seem reasonable (nothing too hot to touch) with the water jacket in that weird position...

  30. #30
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    If you have a drill press with a vice put a 1/2" socket in the chuck space the vice to hold the motor and push the cooler off

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