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Thread: 1/12 scale miss budweiser

  1. #1
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    Default 1/12 scale miss budweiser

    hello,i have a 1/12 scale miss Budweiser that was nitro powered.i ran the boat years ago and loved it until the motor finally blew.i would like to get back into the hobby and im wondering if any of you guys think I can convert the boat from nitro power to electric power.i am wondering about the motor size,should I use the existing drive shaft of change to a flex shaft,and I also need to change out the servos because they seem to be bad since the boat has set to long.ive never built a boat before obviously as you can tell so where should I start.thanks!

  2. #2
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    I have one yet to convert and one that already has been. Bit of an issue keeping water out of them but a bit of waterproofing work and an OSE Raider ESC and good to go. Mine is powered by a Castle 1512 2650kv on 3s

  3. #3
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    thanks for the reply.did you use the same drive shaft of did you have to replace it.also how much run time do you get on your set up.

  4. #4
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    It has a flex cable on it now. I bought it converted but reworked it a bit.
    This is one of the vids: https://youtu.be/A2BJr5w0Vkc

    And another: https://youtu.be/xbB4JnZDcu0

  5. #5
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    Thank you. Some of the parts to this boat are missing so what do I need to get to operate the servos. I assume the esc operates the motor only or am I wrong

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tritontr19 View Post
    Thank you. Some of the parts to this boat are missing so what do I need to get to operate the servos. I assume the esc operates the motor only or am I wrong
    You are correct. Any chance of a pic of the rear and interior? Perhaps I can see what else is needed.

  7. #7
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    for some reason I cant get the pictures to upload here.all I have is a servo that operated the steering,nothing else.so I assume that I need to get a receiver for the boat with an antenna,and a servo as well for steering am I correct.can ou point me in that direction,or should I call in to the shop to get advice there
    .

  8. #8
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    This is the only image of the inside that I could find on mine.


    There are a few more HERE from when I sold her.
    "A quick temper will make a fool of you soon enough."
    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Bruce Lee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

  9. #9
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    Yea that’s what mine looks like exactly.nitro motor is gone in front and in that back compartment there is only a servo connected to the steering rudder

  10. #10
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    So is that box possibly waterproof? If so that would be helpful. Mine is open.

    And yes you will need a transmitter and receiver, an ESC and motor. I see Danny was running a stock class motor. Anything should do. 36mm and up.

  11. #11
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    ok thank you.yes the box is water proof with a clear plastic lid that tapes on.another question,does the esc wire in to the receiver in the boat,in other words what controls the throttle.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tritontr19 View Post
    ok thank you.yes the box is water proof with a clear plastic lid that tapes on.another question,does the esc wire in to the receiver in the boat,in other words what controls the throttle.
    The ESC will plug into the receiver which controls it. The ESC plug into the battery (red/black wires) and then into motor(blue/yellow/black wires. Or all black wires. Or red/white/black, you get the picture).

  13. #13
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    ok thanks for your help on this.i have one more question that I would like to ask then ill be done.im not interested in speed as much as some people may be but I would like to have at least the same performance out of It that I had with a nitro motor,i would also like to get as much run time as I can,so with this being said,what would you recommend as far as electronics for the boat,as far as receiver,esc,and motor.and should I switch to a flex drive shaft or stay with the solid drive shaft that is in the boat.again thabk you for your responses,i appreciate your input

  14. #14
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    I would go the flex cable/strut route. I have another boat with the original solid shaft setup and with the brushless power the aft keeps getting tossed out of the water due to the downward facing prop. Do you have any battery packs already?

    Actually y’know if you wanted to stay with the nitro I have a motor from one.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    I would go the flex cable/strut route. I have another boat with the original solid shaft setup and with the brushless power the aft keeps getting tossed out of the water due to the downward facing prop. Do you have any battery packs already?

    Actually y’know if you wanted to stay with the nitro I have a motor from one.
    I don’t have batteries or anything at all right now,I’ve been trying to study on batteries but I’m still not sure what type would best suit what I want to do with the set up I’m looking for.what battery pack would you recommend

  16. #16
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    There are good deals on packs at hobbyking. I was fitting 3s 4400mah packs on either side on mine 40c or better is good. Turnigy or Zippy are decent. I think a 90-120amp ESC and 2600kv (or so) motor. Since this is kinda your first go hobbyking would be a good hunting ground for parts. Should keep costs down.

  17. #17
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    ok thank you so much for the help.so I need to also get a wireing harness to attach two batteries together

  18. #18
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    Not the OP’s version, but this pic demonstrates that it is possible to fit everything inside.

    66C4F833-B2D4-49CD-8D34-5333D5593809.jpeg
    ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for


  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    Not the OP’s version, but this pic demonstrates that it is possible to fit everything inside.

    66C4F833-B2D4-49CD-8D34-5333D5593809.jpeg
    Yup, but with the PB Bud the batteries can go on the sides due to the fuller body.

    Triton, yes a parallel harness would be in order. Just run something better than Deans plugs. EC5, or something similar.

  20. #20
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    thanks to both of you on your patience.i checked out hobby king and I like the prices for sure,im planning to order some parts to begin my rebuild shortly.as far as the drive shaft,strut,and prop goes,can I install the new flex shaft in the same hole as the old shaft went.and how much of the old shaft guide should be cut away to allow for the strut to be installed.is there a (correct)size I should try to get as far as the strut that should work with a boat this size.and as for the prop,which one would you recommend.again I thank you for your help and advice.

  21. #21
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    I got some pics for you here:

    63BED870-CAE6-4B70-850E-3415F2D8C74B.jpg0C60289C-7CAF-4B07-8432-A32AD60921C4.jpg6DA65EF2-0689-49E3-84CD-217F69E229CA.jpg

    First pic is layout, second the hardware, and third is the tube out the bottom. I did not set this one up but I can get a measurement for you when the time comes. I can dig up the strut and rudder for you. I believe they are OSE

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  23. #23
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    thank you for the pics.looks like on the drive shaft assembly you cut off the entire rudder that was on the bottom of the boat to install the flexible shaft.also looks like you cut out the old electrical box to install the batteries behind the motor.at least that's how im seeing it.again I appreciate the advice,glad someone is willing to help out with this.

  24. #24
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    The battery packs actually go on either side of the motor kinda up in The sponsons. I do have a ‘yet to be converted ‘ hull here in the attic. I should pull it down for reference.

  25. #25
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    im going to start work on mine this weekend.when I was last running the boat I had a crash right before the motor went south.going to fix the hull up and clean the inside up good before I order parts and begin building.i wanted to thank you guys again for your help and as I start building the boat back I may ask some more questions from time to time,as since ive been looking at sec,motors,recievers,etc my brain is going in circles.thanks again!

  26. #26
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    Ask away and I shall be here.

  27. #27
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    another question.how were you able to access the back of the boat to install the new rudder and strut assembly.my electrical box is in the way and I would have to cut it out in order to get back there to install it

  28. #28
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    Wow, site was down for a bit. I pulled down my spare Bud. I see your issue, mine too. I would say cut the back wall of that radio box out so you can access the transom. I quite like the waterproof box so try to retain it. Water intrusion is kind of an issue in that area when the boat slows/stops.

  29. #29
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    that's what I was thinking as well,im gonna cut the back of the elec box out and try to save it to epoxy back in when im done installing the rudder and strut.about this flex shaft,there are several sizes and lengths that I see.what would be needed to attach the motor to the shaft and also the prop to the cable.basically what im asking is how do I make this all work.

  30. #30
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    All you need is an assembled .150 flex with a 3/16” prop shaft. Short prop shaft should be good. You will be looking at a 37mm prop or possibly bigger

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