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Thread: HK Genesis Build/Help

  1. #1

    Wink HK Genesis Build/Help

    Hey all,

    I'm still pretty new to RC boating, and I recently purchased and built a Genesis and am now ready for the next upgrade. Right now I'm running the stock 2050kv motor with a 150amp ESC like the one OSE carries: https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...=ose-R-150C-v2 (mine is not the OSE version)

    I can run on 4s, 5s, or 6s but am planning to run on 6s with the upgrade. I am currently using an Octura X445, but also have a X645 that I still have to balance and sharpen. I also feel that I may need to install battery trays a little further back in the hull.

    I would really appreciate some advice on setup (which I know there's other posts), prop choice, and motor/esc size for this boat. I think I would like to be able to run consistently in the 60's, and I do enjoy doing laps with the boat over SAW runs.

    Here's my boat below. I got the boat new from HK, and did an epoxy poor mixed with carbon fiber in both the tips and transom, as well as a carbon fiber lay up to strengthen the hull. I made my own motor mounts from 3mm carbon fiber sheet, and used the original aluminum motor mounts. I installed flush mount water pickups at the bottom of the hull, and also installed a Tenshock carbon fiber rudder offset, instead of the offset mount for the stock rudder. I wanted to get fancy, so I used a stainless linkage rod that fit into a carbon fiber tube for looks (and extra strength right?). I also installed a flood chamber style linkage boot to keep the transom looking clean. I also found a millimeter sticker that I put on the strut for easy adjustments. Since I already had the Traxxas radio, I installed a voltage sensor and temp sensor on the motor, for real time readings on the water.

    Anyway, I really enjoyed building this boat, but now I need some help getting it to really move. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks!






  2. #2

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    Thats a really nice boat you have there. Did you make the hatch screw yourself? Mine i also from HK and did not come with hatch screws. I’ve bought some on ebay cause i hate the tape and it pulls of some of the paint by time.. I have to ask, did your boat come with a 2050kv motor?? Mine is a 2075kv 3674 SSS out of the box?? And the three wires tends to heat up and melt the isolation on the plugs.

  3. #3

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    The setup on mine at the moment is: stock 2075kv 3674 SSS, Turnigy Marine 120amp esc, 4414 2 blade prop and 6s (2x3s). Here the problem is overheating the three wires in the motor cause they are so thin.
    I’ve bought a flycolor 150amp esc. And a cheap goolrc motor 1900kv 4082. I was planning on testing that setup when it arrives.

  4. #4

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    Lovely workmanship. :)
    2075kv is too high to run on 6S, single drive.
    Most here will say that should be a 4S setup. The reason that the wires are so hot are they are pushing more current than they were designed to. You should either prop down, or go back to a 4S setup. Else, you risk burning up your motor, and perhaps your boat.
    Another option may be a larger motor.
    Cheetah, Super Rio, (Mod) Starship (Mod and sold),

  5. #5

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    Beautiful results on your first build. Looks a lot like mine. I love the way those Tenshock rudders look and have used them on a couple of my boats. The wrap on the water lines is a nice touch too. What size sleeve is that? Every time I decide to order it, I get overwhelmed with the options and don't bother.

    I've found the faster the Genesis hull runs, the more weight it prefers forward. My trays do run a little further back than yours, but for the most part, I run my packs no further back that the front motor mount, usually more towards the bow than that. I set my strut level and just a few mm above the bottom of the sponsons.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  6. #6

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    In my experience, that hull can only handle so much speed. At some point it becomes unenjoyable. i dont know what that point is because I modded mine out of the box and made it too fast to the point it would flip over without predictably. It happened often enough that I didnt want to run it. I eventually sold it and moved on. I never did get to run it stock and I wish I did. Now, I cant remember if I was running 3S per side or 4S per side. I've had a lot of boats. The Genesis is by far the easiest to make go too fast. Otherwise its a great hull. Good quality, easy to work on and modify, super sleek, easy to balance out. I'm just reaching out so you dont have the same experience as I did and think about starting of slower so you enjoy it.

    Best,

    e

  7. #7

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    Awesome build! When I had mine I ran it on 6s with a 180 Seaking ESC with a UBEC, 1600kv 4082 Leopard motor with 45mm prop, but only did straight line high speed runs. It was stupid fast and I would never have tried to turn that boat at high speed.

  8. #8

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    I'm sorry, yes my stock motor is the 2075kv 3674 SSS as well. The hatch screws aren't stock, and I used pieces of carbon fiber epoxied in place. I do agree that the wires on the stock motor are small, just another reason to upgrade! I never realized how much voltage and heat run through all these wires until I ran this boat for the first time with Traxxas battery connectors. The solder points melted, and luckily the boat was headed towards shore when it lost power!

    Fweasel, I did read through your Genesis build and it helped me out quite a bit. I followed some of your steps, and really appreciate you posting the build. I'm tempted to add to my battery tray so I can get the battery further back, but feel that if I bump the motor up I may not need the batteries that far back.

    I would like to run on 6s (3s per side), so I'm thinking a motor around a 1500kv. I'm also curious about the strut adjustment. If i set the strut height to level with the bottom of the sponsons on a table, I only have another millimeter or two to raise the strut. Is this typical, and I just need to open up the adjustment hole on the strut, or is this a sign my COG is off?

  9. #9

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    Strut height is going to also depend on your COG and prop choice. Octura props will lift the rear of the boat and force the bow down more than an ABC prop like I use with my setup. On this boat, you can use the strut height adjustment to solve issues like prop cavitation. Once your batteries are set to get you in the 30% COG ballpark, no overhang included in that measurement, you can use strut angle to help adjust the ride attitude of the bow. I believe I had to increase the size of the slot in the strut to allow additional adjustment.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  10. #10

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    40000 RPM unload is a maximum imho, you can run a bigger prop and your boat has better reliability.

    6S , 4082/1600kV is fine.

  11. #11

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    Here's a video of the boat running on 5s with the stock SSS 2075kv motor and X445 prop with the strut height set at 2mm higher than flush with the sponsons. I have since moved the batteries back slightly and tried a X645 prop with slightly faster results, though I don't have a GPS for true results. I feel like the hull is still running to wet. I am planning to try some different props like maybe an ABC 1715? Any advice on setup here is greatly appreciated. This thing is so much fun and I'm definitely wanting some more speed.

    https://youtu.be/sG_xDENY22o

  12. #12

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    I found my boat to be more stable getting up to speed with a larger diameter prop vs smaller with greater pitch
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  13. #13

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    Build a twin setup,

    2 x 5S and two BL motors 2000kV

    Stingers : https://mbp-rc.de/MBP-smart-Drive-Po...r-475mm-Flex_1

    Carbon Motor mounts : https://mbp-rc.de/navi.php?a=10747&lang=eng

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