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Thread: HK Genesis Build/Help

  1. #1
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    Wink HK Genesis Build/Help

    Hey all,

    I'm still pretty new to RC boating, and I recently purchased and built a Genesis and am now ready for the next upgrade. Right now I'm running the stock 2050kv motor with a 150amp ESC like the one OSE carries: https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...=ose-R-150C-v2 (mine is not the OSE version)

    I can run on 4s, 5s, or 6s but am planning to run on 6s with the upgrade. I am currently using an Octura X445, but also have a X645 that I still have to balance and sharpen. I also feel that I may need to install battery trays a little further back in the hull.

    I would really appreciate some advice on setup (which I know there's other posts), prop choice, and motor/esc size for this boat. I think I would like to be able to run consistently in the 60's, and I do enjoy doing laps with the boat over SAW runs.

    Here's my boat below. I got the boat new from HK, and did an epoxy poor mixed with carbon fiber in both the tips and transom, as well as a carbon fiber lay up to strengthen the hull. I made my own motor mounts from 3mm carbon fiber sheet, and used the original aluminum motor mounts. I installed flush mount water pickups at the bottom of the hull, and also installed a Tenshock carbon fiber rudder offset, instead of the offset mount for the stock rudder. I wanted to get fancy, so I used a stainless linkage rod that fit into a carbon fiber tube for looks (and extra strength right?). I also installed a flood chamber style linkage boot to keep the transom looking clean. I also found a millimeter sticker that I put on the strut for easy adjustments. Since I already had the Traxxas radio, I installed a voltage sensor and temp sensor on the motor, for real time readings on the water.

    Anyway, I really enjoyed building this boat, but now I need some help getting it to really move. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks!






  2. #2
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    Thats a really nice boat you have there. Did you make the hatch screw yourself? Mine i also from HK and did not come with hatch screws. I’ve bought some on ebay cause i hate the tape and it pulls of some of the paint by time.. I have to ask, did your boat come with a 2050kv motor?? Mine is a 2075kv 3674 SSS out of the box?? And the three wires tends to heat up and melt the isolation on the plugs.

  3. #3
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    The setup on mine at the moment is: stock 2075kv 3674 SSS, Turnigy Marine 120amp esc, 4414 2 blade prop and 6s (2x3s). Here the problem is overheating the three wires in the motor cause they are so thin.
    I’ve bought a flycolor 150amp esc. And a cheap goolrc motor 1900kv 4082. I was planning on testing that setup when it arrives.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Lovely workmanship. :)
    2075kv is too high to run on 6S, single drive.
    Most here will say that should be a 4S setup. The reason that the wires are so hot are they are pushing more current than they were designed to. You should either prop down, or go back to a 4S setup. Else, you risk burning up your motor, and perhaps your boat.
    Another option may be a larger motor.
    Cheetah, Super Rio, (Mod) Starship (Mod and sold),

  5. #5
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    Beautiful results on your first build. Looks a lot like mine. I love the way those Tenshock rudders look and have used them on a couple of my boats. The wrap on the water lines is a nice touch too. What size sleeve is that? Every time I decide to order it, I get overwhelmed with the options and don't bother.

    I've found the faster the Genesis hull runs, the more weight it prefers forward. My trays do run a little further back than yours, but for the most part, I run my packs no further back that the front motor mount, usually more towards the bow than that. I set my strut level and just a few mm above the bottom of the sponsons.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  6. #6
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    In my experience, that hull can only handle so much speed. At some point it becomes unenjoyable. i dont know what that point is because I modded mine out of the box and made it too fast to the point it would flip over without predictably. It happened often enough that I didnt want to run it. I eventually sold it and moved on. I never did get to run it stock and I wish I did. Now, I cant remember if I was running 3S per side or 4S per side. I've had a lot of boats. The Genesis is by far the easiest to make go too fast. Otherwise its a great hull. Good quality, easy to work on and modify, super sleek, easy to balance out. I'm just reaching out so you dont have the same experience as I did and think about starting of slower so you enjoy it.

    Best,

    e

  7. #7
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    Awesome build! When I had mine I ran it on 6s with a 180 Seaking ESC with a UBEC, 1600kv 4082 Leopard motor with 45mm prop, but only did straight line high speed runs. It was stupid fast and I would never have tried to turn that boat at high speed.

  8. #8
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    I'm sorry, yes my stock motor is the 2075kv 3674 SSS as well. The hatch screws aren't stock, and I used pieces of carbon fiber epoxied in place. I do agree that the wires on the stock motor are small, just another reason to upgrade! I never realized how much voltage and heat run through all these wires until I ran this boat for the first time with Traxxas battery connectors. The solder points melted, and luckily the boat was headed towards shore when it lost power!

    Fweasel, I did read through your Genesis build and it helped me out quite a bit. I followed some of your steps, and really appreciate you posting the build. I'm tempted to add to my battery tray so I can get the battery further back, but feel that if I bump the motor up I may not need the batteries that far back.

    I would like to run on 6s (3s per side), so I'm thinking a motor around a 1500kv. I'm also curious about the strut adjustment. If i set the strut height to level with the bottom of the sponsons on a table, I only have another millimeter or two to raise the strut. Is this typical, and I just need to open up the adjustment hole on the strut, or is this a sign my COG is off?

  9. #9
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    Strut height is going to also depend on your COG and prop choice. Octura props will lift the rear of the boat and force the bow down more than an ABC prop like I use with my setup. On this boat, you can use the strut height adjustment to solve issues like prop cavitation. Once your batteries are set to get you in the 30% COG ballpark, no overhang included in that measurement, you can use strut angle to help adjust the ride attitude of the bow. I believe I had to increase the size of the slot in the strut to allow additional adjustment.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  10. #10
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    40000 RPM unload is a maximum imho, you can run a bigger prop and your boat has better reliability.

    6S , 4082/1600kV is fine.

  11. #11
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    Here's a video of the boat running on 5s with the stock SSS 2075kv motor and X445 prop with the strut height set at 2mm higher than flush with the sponsons. I have since moved the batteries back slightly and tried a X645 prop with slightly faster results, though I don't have a GPS for true results. I feel like the hull is still running to wet. I am planning to try some different props like maybe an ABC 1715? Any advice on setup here is greatly appreciated. This thing is so much fun and I'm definitely wanting some more speed.

    https://youtu.be/sG_xDENY22o

  12. #12
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    I found my boat to be more stable getting up to speed with a larger diameter prop vs smaller with greater pitch
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  13. #13
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    Build a twin setup,

    2 x 5S and two BL motors 2000kV

    Stingers : https://mbp-rc.de/MBP-smart-Drive-Po...r-475mm-Flex_1

    Carbon Motor mounts : https://mbp-rc.de/navi.php?a=10747&lang=eng

  14. #14
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    Thanks for all the comments and advice. I've recently upgraded and installed a TP 4060 1650kv motor. This motor really wakes this thing up, and I'm loving the speed on 6s. This motor really does make the hull torque roll getting onto plane, but once up it is pretty smooth.

    My concern now is with the rudder placement/mount length. If you look at the original pictures, you can see that the rudder is just behind the propeller, similar to where it would sit if it was in line with the prop shaft. When the hull gets onto plane and I start to get to full throttle, it seems to not track very strait or stable. I'm wondering if it has to do with the rudder placement, and the prop wash pushing into the offset rudder? I'm currently using a Savox SB-2273SG "High Torque" Servo which has the following torque settings: @7.4V: 388.8 oz-in
    @6.0V: 319.4 oz-in

    I'll have to get some footage of how it handles on the water. I appreciate all of your help with this!

  15. #15
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    I prefer the rudder in line but more weight on the left transom, 4S + 2S serial, 4S on the left.

  16. #16
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    Your rudder is roughly in the same position as mine, but I run the stock blade with the offset bracket. I don't have issues with tracking once the steering was trimmed out. What prop are you running with the new motor? I noticed low speed stability issues before the hull was fully on plane when I tried a small diameter, higher pitch prop vs. the larger diameter, lower pitch prop I ended up with.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  17. #17
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    Right now I'm using Octura X445 and X645 props. I also have this 48mm CNC prop https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...od=cnc-4814250 that I haven't tried yet.

  18. #18
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    I've run nothing but ABC props on mine, which have significantly noticeable less lift at the transom than the Octura style props. I'm no expert on setup, but I do know that the optimal strut height and trim angle would likely be different between our two setups. By default, you might try a little positive trim angle to help lift the front of the hull, which might be running too low and causing steering issues. The di-hedral style hulls definitely behave differently at slower speeds than those with flat ride pads, and prefer to get up and go before stability sets in.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  19. #19
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    When the hull gets onto plane and I start to get to full throttle, it seems to not track very strait or stable.
    My Genesis is setup for saw runs (same motor as you ) and it gets a little a little unstable after getting on plane, instead of making adjustments to tame it down it slows it down so trying putting a little left turn into it when you get on plane this will bring down the left sponson and then you can pour on the throttle

    its the torque roll off that large prop and skinny hull, I also use the offset bracket and it also improves performance....you may also notice you dont have to do this in choppy water that this hull loves because that chop touches that left sponson and keeps it planted

    good luck!

  20. #20
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    I have a Genesis and it's amazing with a little bit of work. A few mods and tuning & you will have a nice performing boat.

    I run mine with 2x 6S packs in parallel.
    ESC - SeaKing 180Amp V3
    Motor - Leopard 1800kv

    One of the best mods that you can do that hull is fill in the empty pockets on the back of the hull as they catch water and can cause speed issues and twitchy handling. Once i filled these in the boat became much much much better!!!! I also recommend filling the tips with some carbon powder and epoxy to help. I also run added Carbon Fiber 350mm battery trays on each side. This helped stiffen up the hull greatly!


    For props i would say it really depends on what type of running you are doing. I run a CNC 42mm 1.9 pitch and it's perfect for just cruising around. Decent speed & temps after a 7min run ESC/Motor/Batteries all come off around 110-115 degrees. If i am doing just speed passes and getting crazy I run a 48mm 1.9 pitch. This prop i only use for speed runs though as after a few passes things start heating up quick. Really it's just a matter of what you are looking for in the boat with your prop selection. I would just recommend being very diligent about checking temperature of all electronics as you adjust and change props / setups.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thunder29 View Post
    I have a Genesis and it's amazing with a little bit of work. A few mods and tuning & you will have a nice performing boat.

    I run mine with 2x 6S packs in parallel.
    ESC - SeaKing 180Amp V3
    Motor - Leopard 1800kv

    I also run added Carbon Fiber 350mm battery trays on each side. This helped stiffen up the hull greatly!
    What kind of 6S battery do you run?
    I ask this because 6S 5000mAh batteries are too big for the Genesis.

  22. #22
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    Turnigy Heavy Duty 4000mah 65-100C 6S packs.

    Here is a link to the hobbyking website showing the exact packs.

    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds


    They fit perfectly. And running a pair of these in parallel makes for a great setup. Not the best pic's I took these in a hurry to show you.


    GenesisBattery1.jpgGenesisBattery.jpg

  23. #23
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    By the way. These Turnigy Heavy Duty batteries are some of the best i've run in boats. I haven't found any other brands of packs that hold up as well as these guys. Especially for the price they are a knock out deal

  24. #24
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    Ok,

    4000mAh batteries is the max. 6S size for the Genesis.

    5S is the optimal choice for the Genesis hull IMHO. Anyway this Mystic hull is awesome
    Last edited by Alfa Spirit; 10-11-2020 at 10:00 PM.

  25. #25
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    I also run some 5500mah 5S packs. They fit almost exactly the same as the 6S 4000mah.

    And i completely agree this hull is really nice with just a few mods and a good setup.

  26. #26
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    I had that same torque lift on the left side when I started going up in prop sizes. Cured it by moving the left side battery forward a half inch at a time till it stopped torquing over and it planes level now.

  27. #27
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    Alright,

    I did some upgrades to my Genesis. I installed a new TP 4060 Motor 1650Kv 6D wind, and a Seaking 180A ESC. I also made the battery trays longer, giving me more adjustment to the rear. I'm running this setup on 6s, but am disappointed with the results. While the boat is quite fast and has great acceleration, I still feel that the hull runs too wet. I have not once had to worry about the hull flipping from running too dry. I have had the strut at a raised position, I'd say about 3mm up, but maybe I've gone too far? On my last run I adjusted the strut angle so that the front of the prop pointed into the water more, and this made the hull run better, but still wetter than it should run. I've been using Octura X445 and X645, and am planning on getting some ABC props next.

    With the new motor and ESC, the hull currently weighs 111oz, and the center of weight is at 31.8% before batteries. I had to make my battery trays longer to put the weight farther back, and I feel like with the batteries in the back this thing should be trying to flip over? Anybody have advise for what I should try, or what I may be doing wrong. I admit that my batteries are not the best, and I'll need to get a higher C rated battery next, but I'm kinda lost at this point.

    https://youtu.be/qNY_wxuk9g4
    (not the best quality video)


  28. #28
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    still too wet, more positive trim, I had to file my strut to get enough adjustment

    check your private messages..... I have a video I made to setup the genesis for another guy ..
    hope it helps it should run with an attitude like this when you have enough positive trim... running an octura prop
    Last edited by MadProps; 08-03-2019 at 04:18 PM.

  29. #29
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    ABC props have much less lift at the transom than the Octuras. Switching to a 17-45 series prop will dramatically improve your ride attitude situation. I run a 1915 prop on my 6S and 8S setups.

  30. #30
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    If you want to print stickers for the Genesis here' s the new logo, enjoy!



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