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Thread: The Evil Doctor's Next Project

  1. #91
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    Last edited by eXoNerated; 06-30-2020 at 09:15 PM.

  2. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    Dr. Jet,
    I think I may have told you this elsewhere, but I am not sure, so sorry if I am repeating myself but if not it could be useful info to you. Did you know that if you add the saltwater snorkel, and a flood chamber down the left side you can make this hull self-righting?
    Yes, you have said that in the past and I have not forgotten, it is good information to know. But since my existing hull is essentially "finished" at this time, adding a flood chamber now would mean re-doing everything inside the hull. I'm going to leave it as-is, since it is actually quite stable as currently setup. I think I have only flipped it once. Were I to build another from a bare empty hull, I would certainly consider it. Who knows, I might build another around that 1112/1.5D I have and take it to another level. Does MHZ make a snorkel, or would I have to cut some foam and 'glass it?

    I have put Hubert on my "Ignore List" and his posts are no longer visible to me. I will no longer be responding to them anywhere. I've asked that this thread be deleted and that I'll start another. It's up to the Mods now if the deletion will happen.

    With that said, I will get back to the topic of this thread; i.e. my "next" project.

    As I have said, it's in the paint shop. The process I am doing on it requires layers upon layers upon layers of finishing materials with substantial drying/curing time (many days) between applications. I am hoping it will achieve the desired result; this is my first attempt at it.
    Last edited by Dr. Jet; 06-30-2020 at 02:14 PM.
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  3. #93
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    Sorry for the misunderstandings enjoying your build.

    Regards,
    Hubert.
    Last edited by eXoNerated; 06-30-2020 at 08:54 PM.

  4. #94
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    I've already revealed that the New Neu project will be done in the Auric Enterprises theme again. Since I already did that theme on the Micro Scat Cat and one of the MPRs, you might ask: Why another? Well, as I was falling down some YouTube rabbit hole, I came across this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LsygAUWFs0. I thought this process would make the ULTIMATE Auric Enterprises boat.

    So here's where I'm at in duplicating his process: I've made the exterior of the hull as smooth and joint-free as humanly possible, while blueprinting all the ride surfaces and edges, sanded to 2000 grit. Then primered, filled, sanded, primered again, and sanded to 2000 grit. First coat of base white sprayed on and sanded to 2000 grit. Second coat of base white sprayed on.

    Here's where I think I will deviate from his process: At the end of his video, he talks of the orange peel finish of the base coat creating that, and that the varnish/tint smoothed the final surface to the touch. As sprayed today, my hull has that same appearance: It looks "wet" but on super close inspection, I can see that same orange peel. Some of that may diminish as the paint de-gasses and cures. I think I'll sand it to 2000 after it cures and follow up with Meguiar's polishing compound. Then, I'll coat it with clear, then sand and polish that to as smooth and shiny as possible.

    At that point, I'll continue to follow his process of the chrome and tint.
    Last edited by Dr. Jet; 07-01-2020 at 04:11 PM. Reason: Spell Meguiar's right
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  5. #95
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    You are right surface prep is everything for painting chrome, if it isn't polished before the chrome goes on you will see the texture in the end result however shiny it is.

    I have used several chromes and chrome golds and all are a VERY fragile finish with the chrome only appearing on the very outer surface of the paint. Cleanliness of the spraying area is of phugely important too, as you cant sand or buff out any dust in the chrome or even wipe of any overspray. Most that I have tried will turn from a chrome to a metallic with just a gentle touch leaving fingerprints in it forever, ink from a Molotow chrome pen is the best I have used, it is fairly forgiving to spray for a chrome, and it can be GENTLY handled a couple of days after spraying, though I cant emphasize gently enough, and buffing or sanding is still impossible.

    To give these finishes any kind of practicality they need to be clear coated but most clear coats turn them into metallic grey almost instantly, there are some that don't, but they all affect the brightness of the chrome to some extent and not all are that hard a finish, I really recommend the Alclad 2 klearkote Gloss for this at least in combination with Molotow, as it is both the hardest and the one that lost the least amount of shininess, you can spray it too.

    If you do brush a clear like in the video, chose as soft a brush as you can find to minimize the chances of rubbing the chrome surface off, while applying the clear when I was doing research on it I saw several recommendations for makeup brushes for this purpose, but I can't attest to that as I have either sprayed it or been doing tiny pieces with tiny and soft modeling brushes.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  6. #96
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    This is the first time I've tried this process, so I appreciate the tips. I think shooting the chrome on with an airbrush may help eliminate the possibility of dust getting on the chrome as it will go on REALLY thin and should only be in the dust-attracting "tacky" state for a short moment. I'll make sure the panting environment is as dust-free as possible. My plan is to have the varnish ready to go on the moment the chrome is dry enough, in order to minimize the possibility of fingerprints, dust, and other contaminants.

    I have no plans of putting ANYTHING on the chrome except for the tinted varnish because I know a clearcoat of paint could kill the chrome effect. He claims the varnish gives a durable finish, and from the video, the brushes do not appear to scratch it. I do plan to clearcoat over the finished product as I have some waterslide decals that will be going on it and I want them sealed.

    I have some soft sable brushes, and even some make-up brushes, so I'll do some testing on my spoons before attempting the final product.
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  7. #97
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    Well, I've sanded and polished the white base coat to where it looks like a gel-coated fiberglass hull right out of the mold. I used Barkeeper's Friend and my fingers to clean any possible residue leftover from the Meguiar's and buffed dry with a micro fiber cloth. It's not quite "wet" looking but it looks like the surface of a brand-new glider wing: Smooth and sexy. Held at an angle in the light looks mirror-smooth. I was planning on shooting a coat of clear on it, but now I'm not 100% certain it would be worth the effort. I'd have to sand and polish the clear as well, so I see no advantage in it.

    When I put my nose up against the paint, I can still smell a tiny hint of the paint solvent, meaning that while dry enough to handle and sand, it's not 100% cured. I'll give it a few more days then attack it with some even finer polishing compound (I used the Ultra-Cut 105 thus far) and buff with a micro fiber cloth until my arm falls off.
    Last edited by Dr. Jet; 07-01-2020 at 04:12 PM. Reason: Spell Meguiar's right
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  8. #98
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    Hold the phone!!!

    I just buffed it out with Meguiar's 50 and it's beginning to get that "wet" look....... It's shinier than anything I've seen from MHZ or H&M. It looks like the bumper of a 1950 Buick.
    Last edited by Dr. Jet; 07-01-2020 at 04:12 PM. Reason: Spell Meguiar's right
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  9. #99
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    I am excited for you just thinking about it, I think that it is going to look absolutely epic!

    I believe the snorkels were homemade, glass over foam.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    ......... I believe the snorkels were homemade, glass over foam.
    That's what I thought. I may do another Miss Madison like that. Do you have photos of how they did the flood chamber? Looking at my hull, it seems the aft half of the port side of the hull could be walled-off to make a chamber. I kinda wonder if making it too big would make it float at an awkward angle when at rest.
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  11. #101
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    It seems like the acrylic varnish I ordered is "lost in shipping". Actually, that is OK as I can still smell a bit of solvent gassing out of the paint, even though it's been several days. I want to apply the varnish within a very short time of shooting the chrome, so some additional drying time for the base coat won't hurt a thing.

    The New Neu Project has "wet" side and a "dry" side of the hull. The "wet" part (that part that is actually in the water) will be gloss white and the "dry" part (the deck) will be done in the AE Gold. I pondered a long time how to make the joint between the two colors. If I did the whole thing in white first, then masked off that portion to be done in gold, the masking tape might make for an ugly paint joint with all the layers required to make the gold. Since the tint will be flowed on with a brush, it could cause a dark shadow edge along the masking tape. Instead, I'll do the gold on the deck first, allowing it to overlap onto portions that will eventually be painted white. Then I'll mask off the gold and shoot the white on the bottom. I think that would make for a better paint joint that will smooth out easily under the final clear coats.
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  12. #102
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    If you recall from my first Auric Enterprises boat (a "chopped" BBY Micro Scat Cat - See photo), I painted a light blue windscreen on it. The effect turned out pretty well. For the New Neu Project, I have drawn up a windscreen in AutoCAD with the screen being a solid and somewhat darker blue. I will print that up on some super-thin waterslide decal paper I got from a supplier in Australia. My experience with laser printers and decal paper is that the ink is not fully opaque enough to fully hide the underlying base color; it will allow the color underneath to show through.

    My plan is to take advantage of the translucence of the laser ink with a golden sheen "behind" the windscreen and some of the other graphics I have planned.

    Epic indeed!

    Stay tuned.....
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  13. #103
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    Default New Neu Project Revealed!

    Enough cloak-and-dagger secrecy, I am going to reveal the project. Now Paul might chime in that my choice of hull isn't competitive, but that isn't my goal. Just something that's fast enough to wow the locals and look good doing it.

    Here are some progress photos with more to come in another post. I've revised the rudder linkage from what is in the photos.
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  14. #104
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    Default More Photos

    More.

    I printed the proposed decal graphics onto plain paper, cut out the pieces, wetted them, and applied them to check for fit and appearance. I've changed the shape of the windscreen a bit, enlarged the Rolls Royce logos and I'll move the name "Grand Slam" to the rather tiny transom. Hopefully, the gold will show through the windscreen and the yellow areas in the decals.

    Stay tuned....
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  15. #105
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    Default Air-Cooled

    If you haven't noticed, the running gear in this project is all air-cooled. The 11-Series Neu helicopter motors have a very efficient air-cooling system "built-in", so I opted to use some fan-cooled (and waterproof) ODAY RC car ESCs of a suitable amperage rating. The shape of the cockpit and the placement of the ESCs will allow for unobstructed cooling airflow. One of the benefits of sticking with 2S systems is I can use really cheap speed controllers without the headaches that the guys running 8S~10S systems face. Those guys NEED data logging.
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  16. #106
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    I finally have the varnish to tint the chrome! That's a story worth a thread of it's own......

    So I think I have the base color to the point where it looks "wet" and it's time to fire up the airbrush. Here's where it's "make it or break it" time.....

    I stuck a paint mixing stick on the bottom of the hull with double-sided tape so I could move the hull around when painting it.
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  17. #107
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    I shot the chrome on and it looks really good. It wasn't until I got it in the sunlight that I saw the paint was a little thin in one area. The product says less than 1 hour or more than 48 for a re-coat. Looks like a couple more days before anything happens.
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  18. #108
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    Default Learned Something New Today

    After putting the hull in the sun for a few hours, it was dry enough to handle. I had a fine mist of over spray in a few areas, but it really wasn't bonded with the surface. Native Paul had me concerned about the durability of the finish, so I wiped the over spray off a small area with my finger. Lo and behold, it was smooth and shiny underneath. I dusted a larger are with a micro fiber cloth. Eventually, I was buffing it with the micro fiber and getting a spit shine out of it! This stuff is hard and durable. DO NOT get ANY solvent near it until it is sealed with a clear coat, or in my case, the tinted varnish, then clear.

    The areas where the paint was thicker (e.g. the cockpit) look much, much better, so I think I may be a bit more generous with the next coat, especially the front deck.
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  19. #109
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    Bill, in a way, it's a 'shame' you're going to "cover up" this gorgeous chrome look, as I'd have the perfect name for the boat, as-is: Liquid Metal. Or, as an 'alternate', you could have given it a Terminator theme, and called it 'T-1000'.

  20. #110
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    When I was buffing it out, I thought "T-1000"......
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  21. #111
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    Default More Photos

    Someone wanted to see more photos of my Micro Drifter build so here they are.

    The motors don't really experience any side-to side loads while running, only vertical ones, so I make sure the mounts will withstand them. I orient the motor mount screws in the vertical plane for this reason. I made sure the outboard edges of the CF mounts are tied into the hull by wrapping carbon fiber strands up and along the motor mount, then along the sides of the hull. These mounts are rock-solid and the motors aren't going to be moving or flexing at all. They do not need a forward support like the really long motors do.
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    Last edited by Dr. Jet; 07-12-2020 at 12:38 PM.
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  22. #112
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    Default More Photos

    I used an HS-77BB servo because it would fit and because I had one in my servo bin. I just used a couple of short pieces of CF angle to make the mount.

    I'm going to use the same servo linkage as I used in the 1/20 scale hydro, except it will be in a Pull-Pull arrangement. I had to do this because the geometry of the linkage induces some differential throw. I compensated for it at the servo horn (wheel) but it is not 100% equal. My linkage will allow the "push" side to flex just a tiny bit to make it all work.
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    Last edited by Dr. Jet; 07-12-2020 at 12:51 PM.
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  23. #113
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    Default If I Needed a Forward Motor Support.

    The motor mount in my Micro Iceberg was not as rigid as the MD and that motor needed a forward support. I made a rectangular hole in a small piece of CF plate that a wire tie could slip through. Then I sanded the CF bit down to where it would slide under the motor. Some epoxy and Voila! The forward end of you motor is secure yet easily removable. I did the same thing with my Graupner Systems. It works especially well in the minis where space is at a premium.
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  24. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Jet View Post
    Someone wanted to see more photos of my Micro Drifter build so here they are.

    The motors don't really experience any side-to side loads while running, only vertical ones, so I make sure the mounts will withstand them. I orient the motor mount screws in the vertical plane for this reason. I made sure the outboard edges of the CF mounts are tied into the hull by wrapping carbon fiber strands up and along the motor mount, then along the sides of the hull. These mounts are rock-solid and the motors aren't going to be moving or flexing at all. They do not need a forward support like the really long motors do.
    Looks great...I like.

  25. #115
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    Sorry Doc, it was a long time ago, and before I inherited my camera, I don't recall the shape of the Miss Madison flood chamber, I have some feelers out for more info and will let you know if/when I get something back.
    All I have found of it so far is this grainy video.


    I saw this new Mini Hydro Canard on facebook, and thought it might be up your street.
    103304413_3199594963425500_1432813646892581176_o.jpg
    102703483_3200115793373417_2913688361659393332_n.jpg
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  26. #116
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    NP: That's about the exact same way my Miss Madison ran. Really fast, but chop = flip. I'm in no hurry, but if you find any info let me know.

    Now the mini Canard is just weird enough to tempt me for another "off the wall" project. Who makes that hull?
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  27. #117
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    It is made by a chap called Pavel Rudenko. I don't know him myself though.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  28. #118
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    There were some questions on hardware. I am using this stinger on the MD: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TFL-55MM-Ad...kAAOSwAE9b17uL
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  29. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Jet View Post
    There were some questions on hardware. I am using this stinger on the MD: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TFL-55MM-Ad...kAAOSwAE9b17uL
    Thanks. Just added it to my 'Watch' list. Tomorrow, I'll compare it against the 6 I listed in the PM.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

  30. #120
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    Default My Favorite Cooling Water Pickup

    No drag, Lots of pressure and flow. See Photos.
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