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Thread: Seeking advice on setup for a 45" mono

  1. #31
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    Here is what I did. Using double sided tape I stuck some straight aluminium (or small steel angle iron) pieces to the bottom of the hull to push down the high spots and lift the low ones. Then a layer of CF inside to strengthen and hold. I did this on my Pursuit, Osprey and another hull. It doesn't make it perfect but it takes out the worst and means less fiiling and sanding. Just make sure to use good tape. It can be a bit of a mission removing it after but it works.

    This was the other hull, very similar to the Osprey.

    20160826_080337.jpg
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
    BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

  2. #32
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    On other hulls where they had serious hooks, I just filled them with auto body filler. Sand through the gel coat with some 120 grit paper first to get a good bond on the fiberglass.
    Then block sanded flat. Then sealed it with some paint.
    m_Arowana 023.jpg

    m_Arowana 024.jpg

  3. #33
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    Feb 2019
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    Thanks both. I was just about to chuck the hull in the bin and buy a DF33. I'll give it a go

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by UpsideDown View Post
    Holy mother of all hooks. Is this normal for the pursuit?! There's a hook on one side and a bulge on the other. To sand it down I think I'll find myself inside the hull.

    Attachment 163967
    That part of the boat should be out of the water when up to speed.

    I have reviewed many videos of Mono's running and the does get up high sailing on the bottom chim.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speed3 View Post
    That part of the boat should be out of the water when up to speed.

    I have reviewed many videos of Mono's running and the does get up high sailing on the bottom chim.
    Sorry Speed, but you are incorrect. That rear part of the boat is where it should run, especially when turning. That is why a hook is not good in a hull, it creates problems with getting the hull to run correctly. The planing area of the hull needs to be flat and as true as possible. All your video "reviews" do not replace actual on water experience.
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
    BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

  6. #36
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    Totally agree Peter. In the corner there's a larger surface area of the bottom touching the water. Hooks are bad everywhere but especially so in the last inch towards the keel. They create horrible lift and unpredictable driving.

    On the other hand the bottom is finally nice and true. In a weeks' time I'll sand it again.

    IMG_20190303_071734.jpg
    IMG_20190303_195433.jpg

  7. #37
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    Nice work.
    Be prepared to make some changes to the strut angle, cog, and the trim tabs now that there is no suction from the hook. It will probably want to lift the nose now.

  8. #38
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    Hooks are bad unless your a seducer.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    Nice work.
    Be prepared to make some changes to the strut angle, cog, and the trim tabs now that there is no suction from the hook. It will probably want to lift the nose now.
    Very interesting Paul. I've heard many versions on how a hook at the keel effects boat attitude. I agree with your version. Some say that the hook lifts the whole boat out of the water rather than lift the bow and push the nose in the water.

    In my case it had to come off. It was totally uneven and there was a hook on the starboard and a hump on the port side.

  10. #40
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    So the first day out turned out pretty good.

    I ran the 448 (still waiting on the 445), speed was in the 80-82kmh, CG was best at 32%, she was too loose at 30%.
    Motor and ESC were cool. Some water coming in the hull through the stuffing tube, I'll put a piece of silicon tube at the collet side.

    Quite happy with the setup but I think 445 prop would be the sweet spot. It seems to be revving in the mid 20s, so maybe the 445 will push that rev range up.

    I attached the logs, the relevant bits are in the middle section. Do they look ok?

    Thanks all for your advice, it sure made a big difference.

    Amps.jpgrpm.jpgtemps.jpg

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