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Thread: PRO BOAT UL-19XR_Bashing a UL-19 into an outrigger...

  1. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    I'm interested in the Preval system. I wait to see your results.
    I love it. It's real handy to use. I sprayed that yellow stand with it. No problems at all with the Preval system.

    I did spray the boat with it at first. Then I made the decision to go with the Pactra True Blue Pearl (spray cans) for a better match.

    The problems were not with the Preval sprayer. It was the paint. The thinned Klass Kote Indigo Blue didn't cover well and I got runs spraying it on the sides. You can take off the screen on the pickup tube for thicker paint that's not thinned. It sprayed well not thinned until it started to set up on me, then I got some spatters. So I wet sanded the runs and used the True Blue Pearl.

    Again, I sprayed the yellow stand (post #179 above) with thinned Klass Kote using the Preval system. Yellow covers well even when thinned and the sprayer works fine, very handy to setup and use.

    Per Klass Kote, after mixing the paint 1/1, you then thin it 6/1. So not using much thinner at all.

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  2. #182
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    More progress, I'm getting closer to my original vision of transforming this into a Pro Boat outrigger.

    Allow me to post a few pictures, I've worked hard to reach this point.

    Here's the two side by side, I've got a couple coats of clear on and the stickers I saved on wax freezer paper are on...



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  3. #183
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    Here's pictures of the Pro Boat UL19XR only, in the original paint scheme. I knew from the beginning it had to be done that way.

    Staying true to Pro Boat's color scheme is the cherry on top as far as I'm concerned...



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  4. #184
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    Wow. that is sweet looking! Thanks for building it for me. . .LOL. . .real nice work Samuel. I know many of us are dying to see how it performs in the water. Proboat might be contacting you soon.. .fantastic job and the paint seem to match very well.

  5. #185
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    Looks great...looking forward to seeing how it runs!

  6. #186
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    Truly impressive!
    Nortavlag Bulc

  7. #187
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    Wrapping up some final details that I fuss over just because it makes me happy about my build.

    The factory paint on the fins was almost a match. It bugged me enough that I pulled the stickers and stripped and repainted them.

    The second picture shows an extra factory fin that's a little darker...

    I also sealed them so they'll float if they come off...


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  8. #188
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    Here's another detail and a tip. I cut out the XR lettering from iron-on airplane covering. Then sealed them with conformal coating. I like things to last and look nice over use and time.

    Note: In my RSX380 build thread, I used airplane canopy glue to seal the windshield and the painted rivets. It turned milky white when it got wet. I went over that with this conformal coating too...


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  9. #189
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    I laid carbon fiber on the floor in the front of the tub. That finishes the CF inside and strengthens that joint...


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    Last edited by sammyha; 04-05-2019 at 09:29 AM.

  10. #190
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    Lastly, here's that side view again with paint. The jet fighter plane view. It's time to install the motor, electronics and rigging. I'm in range now...


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    Last edited by sammyha; 04-05-2019 at 03:44 PM.

  11. #191
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    Coming along nicely! On my UL-1 I changed the foam double stick tape on the fins for silicon double stick tape which seals the fin and it floats too :) I'm thinking on magnetizing them now since they have come off often and ruined the paint every time.

  12. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
    Coming along nicely! On my UL-1 I changed the foam double stick tape on the fins for silicon double stick tape which seals the fin and it floats too :) I'm thinking on magnetizing them now since they have come off often and ruined the paint every time.
    Thanks. Yup. I've pulled off paint too. I'm using the 3M tape we use to mount our helicopter gyros. Holds well. Going to try to be sensible, run fast with good setups, and stay on the water...

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  13. #193
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    That's a lot easier done with the UL-19 than the UL-1 :)

  14. #194
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    More progress. My reservoir is starting to open up. Good timing...

    This top loading OSE motor mount sure is handy. Easy access to glassing the inside joints after getting the alignment and epoxying it in place...


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  15. #195
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    I also have all the hardware mounted on the transom...


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  16. #196
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    Looks fabulous Sammy. Awesome

  17. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    Looks fabulous Sammy. Awesome
    Thank you...

    I salvaged these from the Ul-19 hull I cut up. They're actually nice components. They all have a small lip on them for the epoxy to get a purchase on. The strips have nylok nuts buried in them...


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  18. #198
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    I don't see lightweight plastic y-fittings on OSE anymore. So I shopped Ebay.

    These are the perfect size and of high quality. I'm using the extra large 9/32" OD tubing. It goes on snug, and the fitting ID is actually bigger than the tubing ID. Here's the link...

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F382544598833

    Btw, it's a pack of ten, so that's $2.23 each...



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    Last edited by sammyha; 04-13-2019 at 05:37 AM.

  19. #199
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    The progress is awesome and the final appearance is exactly as I imagined what the stock boat would look like as a rigger. Well done. Love the graphics.

    The hose barbs on your water jacket look pretty restrictive, or maybe it's just the lighting. I'd suggest drilling them out, or replacing them with larger diameter barbs and re-threading if necessary. I've used those TFL jackets before and replaced the barbs on mine Also, I would recommend against the Y fitting coupler design as there's no guarantee on equal water flow distribution through the system. If it were my boat, I would plumb the ESC and motor in series and address cooling inefficiencies after the first few runs based on temperature readings, but assuming that the electronics are up to the task with the prop selected, I bet the single path design will work out just fine.

    And my last observation, based on my own troubles, is watch the cooling hose between the rudder and transom after a crash. I had a layout like that on my Mini Zonda result in a sliced cooling hose after contact with the prop. I didn't even see it happen and was about to make another pass before another driver pointed it out to me. I no longer crossover the propshaft center line with cooling hose on my builds to prevent that from happening again. Anyways, just thought I would share that story so you were aware.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  20. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    The progress is awesome and the final appearance is exactly as I imagined what the stock boat would look like as a rigger. Well done. Love the graphics.

    The hose barbs on your water jacket look pretty restrictive, or maybe it's just the lighting. I'd suggest drilling them out, or replacing them with larger diameter barbs and re-threading if necessary. I've used those TFL jackets before and replaced the barbs on mine Also, I would recommend against the Y fitting coupler design as there's no guarantee on equal water flow distribution through the system. If it were my boat, I would plumb the ESC and motor in series and address cooling inefficiencies after the first few runs based on temperature readings, but assuming that the electronics are up to the task with the prop selected, I bet the single path design will work out just fine.

    And my last observation, based on my own troubles, is watch the cooling hose between the rudder and transom after a crash. I had a layout like that on my Mini Zonda result in a sliced cooling hose after contact with the prop. I didn't even see it happen and was about to make another pass before another driver pointed it out to me. I no longer crossover the propshaft center line with cooling hose on my builds to prevent that from happening again. Anyways, just thought I would share that story so you were aware.
    Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience...

    Yes, I've cut the cooling line on the prop twice flipping the UL-19. Never thought to not cross it over the prop. I do keep them as short as possible so they can't reach the prop.

    And that's the first time I heard the cooling lines to the ESC and motor setup in series is more dependable versus unequal water flow with a y-fitting. Just make sure the electronics are up to task and the setup is propped right. Interesting...

    I will check out the TFL water barbs size too.

    Great insight...

    Thank you, fweasel

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    Last edited by sammyha; 04-14-2019 at 06:21 AM.

  21. #201
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    My reservoir is open. The water is still very cold and I have to watch out for sticks and other runoff debris. It's getting close to go time here...

    I'm almost finished with the electronics install. Steering servo and linkage is done. I got a nice straight shot with the linkage. I used way less epoxy on the strips with the locknuts than Pro Boat used...


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    Last edited by sammyha; 04-14-2019 at 10:56 AM.

  22. #202
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    I replaced the fittings on the TFL water jacket with OSE 5mm fittings. They are larger and measure the same(.095 ID) as the fittings on the Swordfish ESC, so I went with the y-fitting on my coolant line.

    I figure the pressure thru them will be the same now, should get equal cooling...


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  23. #203
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    This is very interesting...I have room in this wider tub to mount my batteries sideways. Using these CF trays I'll have a huge range of CG adjustment...

    Very cool feature...


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  24. #204
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    I have a question- why the auto- Bailer on a FE boat?

    Years ago - I found that they let water in when sitting in the water.

    If your boat is sealed completely you should not need one.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  25. #205
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    Fill your motor water jacket from the bottom, rear barb and exit out through the top, forward barb. More water in the jacket that way and better heat transfer.

  26. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    I have a question- why the auto- Bailer on a FE boat?

    Years ago - I found that they let water in when sitting in the water.

    If your boat is sealed completely you should not need one.

    Larry
    Because I'm not using tape on my canopies. I'm going with the silicone seals I mold in place using Saran wrap. So what they're not perfect and I need a way to dump a little water. I just don't want to deal with tape.

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  27. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    Fill your motor water jacket from the bottom, rear barb and exit out through the top, forward barb. More water in the jacket that way and better heat transfer.
    Thanks, I'll switch the lines...

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  28. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by sammyha View Post
    Because I'm not using tape on my canopies. I'm going with the silicone seals I mold in place using Saran wrap. So what they're not perfect and I need a way to dump a little water. I just don't want to deal with tape.

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    Keep the bailer clean, any little weed or debris will keep the ball from sealing.


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    Namba District 16
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  29. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by pescador View Post
    Keep the bailer clean, any little weed or debris will keep the ball from sealing.


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    Very good... I noticed that doing my float test. Had a fiberglass shaving in there from drilling the transom holes. Easy to test with your mouth by blowing in it. Mine seals instantly, if it becomes a problem I'll switch to a transom plug...

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  30. #210
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    Rolling a couple of pictures...

    First, the carbon fiber trays with the feet epoxied on.

    Next is the trays epoxied in the tub.

    Last is the ESC strapped in place, the coolant tubing ran, and the batteries strapped in. This looks to be a handy setup for changing batteries and moving them to adjust the CG...

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