Page 4 of 9 FirstFirst ... 23456 ... LastLast
Results 91 to 120 of 244

Thread: PRO BOAT UL-19XR_Bashing a UL-19 into an outrigger...

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    Here it is. The top is on...

    The front center support for the brass tube and the extra fiberglass in the front is epoxied. The top is epoxied in the back to the transom. And I've "stitched" it along the top edges with epoxy.

    I screwed the canopy on to hold the shape of the seal while it cures, and put the back hatch in place to make sure nothing is twisted and it's sitting flush.

    After it cures I'll glass it all along the top joint from the inside like a normal fiberglass boat is joined together.

    Whew!

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 03-02-2019 at 12:15 AM.

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    I'm making homemade peanut butter...

    I know, there's the right stuff to buy, the chopped glass and resin for this.

    This is another "whatever it takes" or "Hmmn, I need to come up with something" to make this work.

    In the first picture, I've taped a wax paper dam on the section of joint I'm filling. I cut some fiberglass into 1-1/2" squares and separated it.

    Next I mixed up some MAS resin and added the chopped fiberglass until it thickened. We have peanut butter baby!

    And a look inside at the joint. I used the mixing spoon, just scooped it in there, pushed it around and poked it in place.

    Lastly, propped up to cure...



    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    So here's why I did as much as I could before joining the top to the tub.

    This is looking at the front brass sponson tube. That would be just about impossible to work in there, to epoxy the tube in and the center support and doublers.

    I can just barely get a decent job done poking the peanut butter in there and smoothing it out for a good joint...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 03-02-2019 at 12:16 AM.

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Az
    Posts
    38

    Default

    Great work.
    I have power tool's, it will fit

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by oldbikerarlo View Post
    Great work.
    Thanks. It's gonna float...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    Taking a look ahead at the sponsons. I wonder how they join these ARF's. Production setup I'm sure.

    The fiberglass joint looks like a bead from a caulk gun. Done by a robot? It's rock hard, almost brittle. My guess is the fiberglass would break next to the bead before it would fail.

    This is a continuous bead around the entire boat. Do they run a bead of fiberglass around the hull and drop the top on? Bam, done?

    So interesting...


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 03-02-2019 at 12:18 AM.

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    Starting my setup for qualifying the sponsons to the hull. I have 1" blocks under the tub. This will give me 1-3/16" of height at the back with the height gain of the air relief angle.

    So clearance for up to a 2-3/8" prop, which is more than I need. The largest diameter prop I have is 2.2 diameter...
    Last edited by sammyha; 02-26-2019 at 09:54 PM.

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    I cut a 3/4" block to level the sponson. This surface transitioned to the bottom of the original UL19 hull. It's also parallel to it, so this will qualify the AOA of the sponsons...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    This is how I'll mark the sponsons for height. Then I can transfer the measurements from the tub along that line for the front and back locations.

    Of course I'll need to clamp everything in place on these blocks, with short rods in the tub and sponsons when I final epoxy it together. I got a ways to go, I have some formers to make for inside the sponsons...
    Last edited by sammyha; 02-26-2019 at 09:57 PM.

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    I made a jig. Got tired of fumbling with these components, and realized I needed something more...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  11. #101
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    I built it on my building board. Flattest thing I own. The tub is setting on 1" blocks, so the 3/4" board slides under it. The 3/4" board fits in the pockets underneath the sponsons which is my qualifying surface for AOA...


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 02-27-2019 at 11:53 PM.

  12. #102
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    This gives me a lot of confidence assembling the sponsons to the tub. This will locate everything while I build the formers inside the sponsons. In the last picture I removed the tub to eyeball the top alignment of the sponsons...


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 03-02-2019 at 12:22 AM.

  13. #103
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    The 3/4" board is screwed to my building board. The strips aligning the tub are screwed to that. The vertical strips are epoxied perpendicular to the 3/4" board and the sponsons are held in place square with a screw.


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 03-11-2019 at 12:12 PM.

  14. #104
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    I can remove and replace each component and repeat the location.

    Here I've removed one sponson and I'm marking the other sponson for the boom tube locations...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  15. #105
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    Here's a profile shot of my project just for fun...


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  16. #106
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Az
    Posts
    38

    Default

    So are you using the RSX380, as a ref for the AOA and tub length?
    Nice profile, looks mean.
    I have power tool's, it will fit

  17. #107
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by oldbikerarlo View Post
    So are you using the RSX380, as a ref for the AOA and tub length?
    Nice profile, looks mean.
    Yes. After building one of his designs and studying his build threads, I have a lot of appreciation for what he's doing.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 03-02-2019 at 12:24 AM.

  18. #108
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Mi
    Posts
    738

    Default

    you should pay attention to the relationship between the CG location and the sponson trailing edge is in your design in comparison to the RSX380.
    This will guide you on for / aft placement of your sponsons.
    Cheetah, Super Rio, (Mod) Starship (Mod and sold),

  19. #109
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    Here I'm cutting out the angled corners(cutting on the dotted lines) in the back of the sponsons and molding a square corner before I make the formers that support the boom tubes.

    Everything is set up straight and square in this jig, so I made this mold to attach to the jig.

    I inlaid the plexiglass with a chisel so it sets flush.

    It's symmetrical, so I can unscrew and reverse it for the other sponson...


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 03-02-2019 at 04:05 PM.

  20. #110
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    I did this fiberglass section as proper as I'm going to do glass work. For this build anyway. I'm happy tho with what I've learned about fiberglassing here on the forum.

    If I ever do another glass project, I suppose I would order up all the right materials...

    Here's the sponson with the angle cut out, and setup in the jig with the mold secured in place.

    In the second picture I laid down the gel coat.



    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 03-08-2019 at 09:39 PM.

  21. #111
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    Next I formed a nice corner radius with "peanut butter" for the cloth to make it's bend.

    And here's a couple of shots with the glass in and wet down.

    Three evenings of building for this... Just so I can knock out the angle on the sponsons. One to make the jig, one to make the mold and tonight I glassed one sponson. And I have another one to do.

    Just keep working the plan, there's 8' snow banks outside up here...


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 03-02-2019 at 01:44 PM.

  22. #112
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    Out of the mold. And trimmed. I put it back in the mold after trimming so I could make and epoxy in the back formers.

    Again, it's all about the setup. The up front time is well spent...


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 03-11-2019 at 12:19 PM.

  23. #113
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ma
    Posts
    8,693

    Default

    Ok, ive seen some cool things over the years on this forum that makes me say, I wish I had the thought or skills. This is definitely one my top 10 list.
    Steven Vaccaro

    Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

  24. #114
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    9,488

    Thumbs up

    This is mental and super cool!

    Awesome job and I am looking forward to the final results!!
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  25. #115
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steven Vaccaro View Post
    Ok, ive seen some cool things over the years on this forum that makes me say, I wish I had the thought or skills. This is definitely one my top 10 list.
    Thanks for such a nice comment...AND for fixing the phone app!

    It would be hard to find better support than here on the forum and on the OSE website.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 03-02-2019 at 04:00 PM.

  26. #116
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brushless55 View Post
    This is mental and super cool!

    Awesome job and I am looking forward to the final results!!
    Thank you. Sometimes supportive comments like this keep a guy going...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  27. #117
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    9,488

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sammyha View Post
    Thank you. Sometimes supportive comments like this keep a guy going...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    It's fun watching people think out side the box starting with something factory!
    are you keeping the stock electronics or using something different?
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  28. #118
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brushless55 View Post
    It's fun watching people think out side the box starting with something factory!
    are you keeping the stock electronics or using something different?
    Big time change in electronics. I have a TP Power 4070/ 1650KV motor and a 200A Swordfish ESC that's going in there.

    I show the layout for the motor, esc and batteries in post #70.

    I bought it on this forum from jim82, he said on 6s it would spank the 4092 Leopard in my RSX380.

    I hope it does!

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 03-02-2019 at 11:17 PM.

  29. #119
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    9,488

    Default

    The TP4070 is a big motor for sure!
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  30. #120
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    1,013

    Default

    Someone commented on my YouTube channel to "get a Dremel tool and a diamond blade, it will be much faster".

    This isn't about cutting fast. It's about accurate cuts. Like cutting out the lip for the canopy on this project.

    I use a fine hacksaw blade, hand held. This also makes way less dust...

    Here I'm cutting along angled corners, and leaving an angle for the fiberglass to lay flat over the joint at the same time.

    I'm sure I could cut a RTR boat in half with a hacksaw blade at a race meet in the time it would take the owner to visit the porta potty.

    I know, because I've done it.

    Cut mine in half I mean, hehe...


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 03-03-2019 at 11:40 PM.

Page 4 of 9 FirstFirst ... 23456 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •