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Thread: PRO BOAT UL-19XR_Bashing a UL-19 into an outrigger...

  1. #31

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    Lots of great info/documentation …… not to fast though, this build has to last an other 6 weeks till the ice is gone!!

  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by jaike5 View Post
    Lots of great info/documentation …… not to fast though, this build has to last an other 6 weeks till the ice is gone!!
    Appreciate it... Haha! So true, this one has to last the rest of the hard water season...

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  3. #33

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    There's two layers of blue tape under the hatch. That will make the lip slightly deeper so the hatch will sit flush. The hatch is also covered with contact paper.

    The second picture is a close up of thin strips of the blue tape so the edge releases.

    I also secured the corner pocket pieces with double sided scotch tape. It's not thick enough to worry about...

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  4. #34

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    Here's a shot of it all layed up with fiberglass...


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    Last edited by sammyha; 03-02-2019 at 12:47 AM.

  5. #35

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    I'm posting this because I can cover more information by talking in a video. I get into the assembly plan in the second half of the video...

    https://youtu.be/r3RnlPP-euA

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    Last edited by sammyha; 03-02-2019 at 12:48 AM.

  6. #36

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    Cool idea...maybe I'll do with with my UL-1 since all she wants to do is blow over at speed. Once I get my Whip finished that is.

  7. #37

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    I pulled it from the mold and cleaned it up. Everything fit beautifully. It's all in the prep and setup.

    There's a satisfaction that's hard to describe when you pull a molded part...

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  8. #38

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    This is what I refer to as an inspirational mockup. It's still soft, so I put the part back in the mold to cure overnight...

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  9. #39

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    Ultimately the success of this project will come down to running the boat I suppose. But, at this point it's looking like this will work.

    Here's some key things I'm doing for anyone that wants to try something like this...

    1) The contact paper. It's low adhesion so sometimes when the part releases from the mold, the contact paper is still stuck to the part. Then just peel it from the part. Sometimes the part releases out of the mold from the contact paper.

    The epoxy does not fish eye when brushing it on the contact paper. This is a big deal.

    Here's the link to where I got it on Amazon...

    12" X 10ft Clear Transfer Paper Roll for Cameo Self Adhesive Vinyl for Signs Stickers Decals Walls Doors Windows Application with Low Initial Tack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XY8CLCG..._CZUyCb5D6RADV

    Note: This concept would not work for compounds curves. The contact paper would wrinkle. You would have to use spray on mold release that I know nothing about, yet...

    2) Six ounce cloth and 30 minute Zpoxy.

    Both bought on Ebay...

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F253998559776

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F132738124168

    I bought the Zpoxy twice. I should have enough to close in the sponsons.

    West Systems resin would also work...

    3) Measure and cut out all the pieces of fiberglass. I lay down the first coat mixed with micro balloons so it's sand able. Wait until it's tacky so the cloth doesn't sink thru to the finished surface. I drag a small wood spatula over it to smooth the cloth out.

    I immediately continue with the next layer. I'm spreading an even coat of full strength epoxy(no micro balloons), then laying down the cloth and smoothing and pressing the cloth into the epoxy with the wood spatula. The key here is spreading an even layer of epoxy.

    Repeat for the third layer.

    Each layer is just getting tacky before laying down the next one. I have not been fighting fiberglass stuck to everything but where I want it. It's been quite easy to do actually...

    That's it... Use your imagination for making the molds. Chop up an old boat! It's been great fun!

    I'll stiffen the bottom with carbon fiber. Epoxy in all the formers and mounts. And fill and sand and paint the hull. With epoxy paint. No compatibility issues that way...


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  10. #40

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    BTW, the only air bubbles(which make voids) that I've had were in the bottom corners of the tub.

    In hind sight I should have laid down the gel coat all the way to the corners. Basically cover the entire flat surface. It was a bit of a struggle to pull the cloth back and fill the corners...

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  11. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by sammyha View Post
    That's your contribution to this thread?

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    Not trying to contribute, very interested & didn't want to miss the running video.

    Good Luck!
    AquaCraft UL-1 59mph. Leo 2650kv.
    Motley Crew 61mph. Leo 2200kv.
    JAE 21FE ~~~ 70 MPH Club ~~~

  12. #42

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    Subscribed
    Cheetah, Super Rio, (Mod) Starship (Mod and sold),

  13. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by 704Authentic View Post
    Not trying to contribute, very interested & didn't want to miss the running video.

    Good Luck!
    Thanks. I hope I don't disappoint. It will be awhile for ice out up here.

    My thinking is by qualifying all the running surfaces back to where they were, it should perform well. That way I'm utilizing Pro Boat's design, not mine.

    I'm just rearranging things a little, hehe...

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  14. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by larryrose11 View Post
    Subscribed
    Thanks. Enjoy the build, I think I can pull it off...

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  15. #45

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    I enjoy your enthusiasm and your willingness to teach yourself , that epoxy is not good for what your doing it will always remain somewhat soft and you cant sand it because it will ball up and clog your paper and remain sticky use west system or Maus it's a 3-1 mixture system,, not sure you need all that cloth you can also use wax paper as a release and get your self some throw away china brushes not those small acid brushes you can thin that epoxy with 90% rubbing alcohol but best to use that stuff for small repairs and gluing blocks of wood good luck and keep up the good work with what your working with !!! live and learn nothing ventured nothing gained !!!

  16. #46

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    Thanks Chris.

    That probably wasn't easy to post. So thank you for that.

    Dang. I'm using the wrong resin. I have bought airplane cowls & wheel pants that say they are epoxy fiberglass construction. That's what I assumed they use to make them. Epoxy...

    So I googled this. There is epoxy resin and polyester resin from what I read.

    Boat manufacturers use polyester resin and boat repair guys use epoxy resin. Something about the epoxy adheres better for a repair. Polyester needs more heat to cure and is more cost effective.

    But the epoxy they refer to is like West System's stuff?

    So I should toss this in the dumpster?

    Or maybe it will be strong enough and be less prone to cracking?

    I did notice what Chris is saying, it feels hard when I tap on it, but it's flexible. A bit more flexible than I would like it to be. It does stiffen some after a day of curing versus right after it sets.

    Over 600 views, does anyone else have any experience or thoughts on the public abortion I've created?

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    Last edited by sammyha; 02-13-2019 at 10:34 PM.

  17. #47

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    try one layer of 1-1/2 cloth with the mas it might stiffen it up but looking at things you have done I am assuming the boat will be to heavy https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t.do?docId=645

  18. #48

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    IN general, don't bother with polyester resin. Its used because it is 'good enough' while still being cheap. Epoxy is tougher.
    Use the slowest curing epoxy you can. Its stronger.
    I use low viscosity epoxy. because you want the lease amount of epoxy, and the most amount of fiber. Low viscosity epoxy is much easier to squeeze out the extra. Granted, I don't do hand layup, only vacuum bags. you could accomplish some of this by clamping things down with a layer of peel ply as a final layer to squeeze out the extra epoxy.
    West is probably fine for what you are doing with a hand layup.
    If your interested in going the vacuum route, here is a vacuum generator that will work, and uses a compressor as a supply. Really cost effective.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Venturi-Vac...aIfQ:rk:7:pf:0
    Last edited by larryrose11; 02-14-2019 at 08:24 AM.
    Cheetah, Super Rio, (Mod) Starship (Mod and sold),

  19. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by dasboata View Post
    I enjoy your enthusiasm and your willingness to teach yourself , that epoxy is not good for what your doing it will always remain somewhat soft and you cant sand it because it will ball up and clog your paper and remain sticky use west system or Maus it's a 3-1 mixture system,, not sure you need all that cloth you can also use wax paper as a release and get your self some throw away china brushes not those small acid brushes you can thin that epoxy with 90% rubbing alcohol but best to use that stuff for small repairs and gluing blocks of wood good luck and keep up the good work with what your working with !!! live and learn nothing ventured nothing gained !!!
    Isn't West System just the brand name for a marine epoxy?

  20. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
    Isn't West System just the brand name for a marine epoxy?
    Yes it’s a line of resins, fast cure, slow cure, finishing, and many different fillers and thickeners.


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    Namba District 16
    1/8 Squire Shop nitro,1/8 59 Maverick nitro, 1/8 Executone FE (UC)1/8 Smokin Joe FE,MLGSX380,AC Pro40II Q Sport,AC Pro40II nitro,Twincraft mono 10s,Vision AOPC,VS1 FE,Insane 30.

  21. #51

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    Quote Originally Posted by pescador View Post
    Yes it’s a line of resins, fast cure, slow cure, finishing, and many different fillers and thickeners.


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    Not intending to be rude...I only ask to learn...So I thought epoxy is resin...what is the difference? Initially I went with Z-poxy 30 minute epoxy and Z-poxy finishing epoxy for the Whiplash 20 I'm currently building. But I find that I am going to need to create a new nose and cowl out of fiberglass and I've never done anything like that before.

    Thanks

  22. #52

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    Quote Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
    Not intending to be rude...I only ask to learn...So I thought epoxy is resin...what is the difference? Initially I went with Z-poxy 30 minute epoxy and Z-poxy finishing epoxy for the Whiplash 20 I'm currently building. But I find that I am going to need to create a new nose and cowl out of fiberglass and I've never done anything like that before.

    Thanks
    This has been one of the main reasons for my detailed build threads. To document a how to for what you're doing, in one place. There is a ton of info for just about everything on this forum. But I've spent a lot of time on here reading stuff. And then try to find it again when you need that info...

    Your Whiplash is a wood kit right? I think what you used to build and seal and then finish that is fine.

    Apparently epoxy for fiberglass work is a different thing. Follow the link Chris(dasboata) posted(post #47) and read on that website about their epoxies. It's explained quite well the uses for their products.

    I ordered their low viscosity resin and medium hardener. I'll use it for the carbon fiber layer on the inside of the tub. I was planning for that layer anyway and it should stiffen the tub up a lot...

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    Last edited by sammyha; 03-02-2019 at 12:54 AM.

  23. #53

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    Quote Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
    Not intending to be rude...I only ask to learn...So I thought epoxy is resin...what is the difference? Initially I went with Z-poxy 30 minute epoxy and Z-poxy finishing epoxy for the Whiplash 20 I'm currently building. But I find that I am going to need to create a new nose and cowl out of fiberglass and I've never done anything like that before.

    Thanks
    finishing epoxy can be sanded and used for a finish not for laminating just use darn polyester resin 90% of our model boats are made from polyester

  24. #54

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    Thanks!

    Darn...I was really hoping to avoid spending $75+ on West Systems for resin that I will only use a small fraction of. Oh well. I looked at it once before for sealing my 3d printed rc airplanes...someone had suggested trying marine resin due to the UV blocker in it to help protect the plastic from warping in the sun. I ended up using polyurethane for the planes.

  25. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
    Not intending to be rude...I only ask to learn...So I thought epoxy is resin...what is the difference? Initially I went with Z-poxy 30 minute epoxy and Z-poxy finishing epoxy for the Whiplash 20 I'm currently building. But I find that I am going to need to create a new nose and cowl out of fiberglass and I've never done anything like that before.

    Thanks
    Burton

    I have got cowl's for the WIP 20 and 40.
    Look here.

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...hp?60814-Cowls

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  26. #56

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    Thanks Larry...not quite what I'm looking for but I appreciate it.

  27. #57

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    I got the top joined. I epoxied it together turned upside down in the bent plexiglass mold. This is another whatever it takes moment. The fruit was just the right weight to maintain the alignment...

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    Last edited by sammyha; 02-15-2019 at 12:24 AM.

  28. #58

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    There's an amazing amount of work in just fabricating the hatch lip! Here it is trimmed up.

    How do they produce all those beautiful RTR boats with the nice fit and finish they come with? SMH...

    The sides of the tub are trimmed to match the top. It turns out it's a 1/4" deeper at the highest point than my RSX380 and the transom height is the same. I made the tub the same length also. Very interesting, it might work out...


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    Last edited by sammyha; 03-02-2019 at 12:56 AM.

  29. #59

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    Here's a shot that shows the transformation I pictured when I first had this idea...

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  30. #60

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    Nice job. You got me checking the forum every couple hours to see if there is anything new on the build.
    I have power tool's, it will fit

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