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Thread: -Proboat Miss Elam Full Rebuild-

  1. #1
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    Default -Proboat Miss Elam Full Rebuild-

    Getting closer to inlay time, already took out waterproof tub, started by getting rid of the wood mounts and stock strut and stock drive system as it is garbage and stock strut is non adjustable. Hull is very flimsy next step is to inlay and strengthen before new motor mount and drive system. First full rebuild that I'm doing so taking time to do it right, if anyone wants to follow and give tips or tricks along the way feel free :)


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  2. #2
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    Looking good. How long is this boat.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaux View Post
    Looking good. How long is this boat.
    Length is 27"

  4. #4
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    20190118_163454.jpg


    Some more parts came in today! Going to be getting ready for inlay and mounting stuffing tube and motor!

  5. #5
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    Wow, the final brushless version of that hull is certainly much easier to work on compared to the narrow tunnel in the original boats. You've got lots of room.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    Wow, the final brushless version of that hull is certainly much easier to work on compared to the narrow tunnel in the original boats. You've got lots of room.
    Yea it doesn't seem bad at all. The only thing is bolting on the new strut in back is gonna take a lot of patience since its so tight to get your fingers in

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mbires12 View Post
    Yea it doesn't seem bad at all. The only thing is bolting on the new strut in back is gonna take a lot of patience since its so tight to get your fingers in
    You should see my hull, it's why I keep putting it off

  8. #8
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    When I did the one Ryan has, I had good luck sticking the motor as far forward as possible.
    That FE version has the weight way too far back for anything beyond the 40s. I’d be trying to get the cog to within 1” behind the trailing edge of the sponson.
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse J View Post
    When I did the one Ryan has, I had good luck sticking the motor as far forward as possible.
    That FE version has the weight way too far back for anything beyond the 40s. I’d be trying to get the cog to within 1” behind the trailing edge of the sponson.
    Thanks for the tip! I ran the stock setup when I got it a couple months ago and I noticed that a bit. I figured a new strut that you can adjust vs the stock one will help that too.

  10. #10
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    2 Layers of Carbon fiber inlay just put in i think it came out decent for my first time



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  11. #11
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    So i got everything ready to epoxy the motor mount and brass tube i was just wondering if the stuff i picked up will work, its jb weld 2 part 4400 psi clear epoxy, i plan on doing the o-ring method for a clean look if anyone has tips let me know!



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  12. #12
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    Sand the attachment points both on the hull, the mount and the stuffing tube for better adhesion. I've also been sleeving my stuffing tubes where they pass through the floor with a small section of brass one size larger. About 1.5 to 2 inches long depending on the angle.

  13. #13
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    I pretty much got it all wrapped up just got to mount servo and put my RX in and shrink wrap the strut and paint the bottom of the hull and stuffing tube. I think it turned out well! What do you guys think?

  14. #14
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    Very clean. Nice work with the epoxy. I would replumb your motor water jacket so that the water enters at the rear barb, and exits through the forward barb. Clock the jacket so that the forward barb is as close to the 12:00 position as possible.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

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