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Thread: Outboard Motors

  1. #1

    Default Outboard Motors

    Has anyone use the Outboards ,,, Sprint F3 Outboard ,,, HobbyKing H2O Style 650EP Outboard

    What one would you pick to put on a 24" - 28" Mono


    22953_5__3.jpg66147.jpg
    HE WHO DIES WITH THE MOST TOYS WINS

    Russ

  2. #2

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    That's a cool little motor, cables are the week spot it breaks and you lose prop and dog every time.

  3. #3

    Default F1 CNC Outboard

    I ran two of my Dragon Hobby F1 boats last summer and lost one prop and dog because I was in deep water. Started running in two feet of water on a sand bar in the upper Niagara. Broke a couple dozen flex shafts but found all the parts. Another member here has suggested trying to use a stainless steel needle bolted in the tower housing exhaust port that extends down to block the prop shaft from coming out of the gear case housing. He has sent me a few samples to try. I'll fabricate one soon and post a photo. Also going to look into the possibility of using 0.130" cable a 0.010" increase in diameter. I have already discarded the Teflon "bushing" for 0.1875" brass tubing. I will share my results. Almost finished painting and decorating a plain white boat to look like my friend Wyatt's boat. Minor detail work ahead. Need some warm water too!
    Jeff
    IMG_3211.JPGIMG_3210.JPGIMG_3213.JPGIMG_3280.JPGIMG_3180.JPG
    Last edited by Jeff39; 01-15-2019 at 04:14 PM. Reason: picture didn't load

  4. #4

  5. #5

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    get the sprint motors and upgrade the motor

    that H2O cnc'd mercury wont push a 28 hull well at all you will just break every shaft trying to push that weight

    I ran twins on a Pursuit, but had to upgrade the shafts using OSE bulk its a bit bigger & better quality I almost stopped breaking shafts unless I get real aggressive and keep in mind thats running twins taking a lot of the stress off each flexie..... the HK H20 motors shaft radius is too tight to work, shame its a great looking motor
    650EP.jpg

    then I switched to a pair of the Sprint motors that I already like and never break shafts! I am even lazy about lubing these motors I trust them so much
    Im getting 42mph but still am in setup stage so there is a little more
    MINI0019.JPG
    Last edited by MadProps; 01-16-2019 at 01:35 PM.

  6. #6

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    I am impressed. Very nice work that you do. I'm sure you are probably right. I'm not ready to give up on these CNC Merc's yet however. The only reason I got back into this hobby was because of the scale appearance of the lower units on these motors. I'm not in it for speed as much as scale appearance. I will take a closer look at the Sprint motors though. Today I went to Field's Hobby Shop in Cheektowaga, NY and bought some larger diameter flex cable. I hope I can get that to work. I would love to see more of your work, Madprops, that twin outboard job looks great. I love outboards, my first real boat was powered by a 1922 2 1/2 Johnson. My first A/B Runabout had a Mark 20 Merc with a Quicksilver lower unit. Eventually I raced a Cotton Craft B Stock Runabout with a Merc 20H. That was long ago. I love F1 Tunnel Hull Racing and helped out in the Pits with a real full scale team not long ago. I look forward to more advice and suggestions from you experience R/C guys. Thanks, Jeff
    ChampBoat.jpgWyatt going in h2o.jpgDSC01409.jpg

  7. #7

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    here is a video of the Sprint motors running I think I can find a video of the twin EP 650s
    but they weren't as responsive both in performance and handling, the extra lower unit of the sprint in the water increases handling but slows it down and the leopard motor upgrades over came that, I still need to install the counter rotation prop and shaft to see how much more I can get and over come the high speed oscillation the hull goes thru

  8. #8

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    Very cool! Thanks for sharing.

  9. #9

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    What motor did you use to upgrade the sprint...?? I put an 1800kv Heli motor on one but have not tried yet....

  10. #10

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    I too tried the heli motors but decided to upgrade again with the leo's they are leopard 2860's, I think the longer shaft gives a bit more torque, the 2845's will also work well

    I also upgraded the EP650 motors with 2845 2960Kv 3y and the 2830 water jackets. I run them on 2 4s 5000mah one for each motor and long run time

    I dont care for the cowls of the sprint motor so I am making my own cowls from a couple cowl sets from the HK EP650 motors
    Last edited by MadProps; 01-17-2019 at 01:36 AM.

  11. #11

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    Nice....well mabe i'll try the leopard 2845....I have one mounted on a Miss Geico 24......I'm not a fan of the cowls either....I'm interested in what you come up with....

  12. #12

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    You can buy the EP650 cowls separate, so I have already taken a dremel to 1 set to get a proof of concept

    you can see I just need to do a bit of glass work at the gap between the 2 halves

    cowls.jpg
    Last edited by MadProps; 01-16-2019 at 11:34 PM.

  13. #13

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    Oh boy...can't see the pics...

  14. #14

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    can you see this one
    cowls.jpg

  15. #15

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    buy the gear drive TLC flex shaft sucks

  16. #16

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    sorry tfl outboard their much bigger but gear driven nice outboard

  17. #17

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    Good looking motor, but twice as big as the one on my Dragon Hobby boat. How does it run? How big of a boat do you have it on? I would imagine you boat would be at least 36" long. My boat is about 23".
    Does it run well?IMG_3531.JPG

  18. #18

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    vs1 tunnel hull 28 from tip to tip 32 22 volts kv 1700 flat out flys

  19. #19

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    dont have to worry about broken flex shaft or losing prop and dog drives either got tired of that tooo

  20. #20

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    depending on want size motor you run not much heavier

  21. #21

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    Thanks Mark,
    I will have to look into those. I bought 5 Dragon Hobby boats last year and an extra motor. I'm going to run 3 of them this summer and try a bigger diameter flex shaft. I do like the idea of bevel gears rather than a flew shaft. But at the same time I like the look of the Dragon Hobby "DAC" F1 boat. The Baba looks good too but no clear windshield and driver half figure. All fun stuff. By the time I get done I should just go buy a real "older used" Seebold hull and V6 Merc hop in and go play on the river during the week. But my wife would kill me. This was me in 1974.
    1974 BSR Jeff.jpg

  22. #22

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    if your running the flex shafts thats your decision i up grade my motor witch was part of my problem but for me it wasnt fast enough to much torc was part if breakage so if you stay with flex then make sure you pull shaft a grease the shaft it self will help you from braking them dont run a bigger motor they will brake i even went to drumal hand piece used the flex shaft out if it witch worked better but still broke good luck with them its a neat looking out board

  23. #23

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    also i put power trim on mine it sure makes a huge difference but hard to get rig you cant do it on your boat not enough room thats my i went to vs1

  24. #24

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    I tried a hobby king outboard on my first 30 inch scratch build because I thought it would be easier and cheaper than a regular setup. I was totally disappointed and really would not recommend it to anybody. Poor performance, shaft broke repeatedly, engine seized. Harder to upgrade than a standard set up. I replaced the broken parts , sold it cheap and fitted a standard motor/shaft/rudder setup. Now I am experimenting with a jet drive unit. Can anybody suggest a suitable engine for a 26mm jet? I started with a 2845 2750kv on 3s as that is what was running my standard drive shaft with 40mm propeller , but the jet is quite a bit slower than the propeller. Not sure how many revs I should aim for with a jet unit.

  25. #25

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    Niel.
    A 26mm pump is a bit small for a 30" boat.
    Lots of info on jet drives over here.
    https://www.rcgroups.com/jet-drive-boats-1004/

    The guys will be able to help you. Have a talk with them.

  26. #26

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    I wonder how the TFL motor on a Hobby King Hornet F1 boat would work? I bought a Hornet then sold it because it was too big for the CNC Aluminum Merc outboard. Hum mmF1 Hornet rc Boat.jpgWyatt going in h2o.jpg2019-02-18 07.28.22.jpg….

  27. #27

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    Be careful how much $ you put into that HK Hornet, it has inherent issues you cant over come easily, many have found you can improve turning by adding wedges near the sponson tips, the hull wants to dig in a turn too much and hops or spins out easily.
    search HK Hornet mods over at RC groups there were a few threads I went thru to make it run better.... gave it to the kids

  28. #28

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    Never ran it because it was too big. Sold it already for what I paid. I like the way the Dragon Hobby boats run, much like the real thing. If I can only find a cure for the flex shaft problem. I bought some 0.130" diameter flex cable will try that. The Dragon Hobby boats, DAC and Baba handle differently too. DAC seems better in rough water and is generally more stable. But both are cool. I have Blown them over, barrel rolled, stuffed them much like I have seen at full scale F1 races in Bay City, MI, St' Louis, MO, Pittsburg, PA and Algonac, MI. Sadly my friend Wyatt Nelson is paralyzed from a bad blow over in Kentucky several years ago.

    rinkersinker.jpg

  29. #29

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    good luck with brakage i tryed all i could from stop it even making my own flex shaft out of dremel flex shaft hand piece help but still broke you can make a lot out of them greasing them help put you have to pull shaft to help it the hole for applying grease doesnt work they suck sorry thats why i went to tfl motor gears no problems now

  30. #30

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    I know what you mean. That's why I replaced the Teflon tube with brass and put a larger grease hole in. Also I tear them down after a run, three max, ang grease the whole shaft at re-assembly. I wish some one made a boat as scale looking as Dragon Hobby. None of the other look as good.

    IMG_3212.JPGIMG_3213.JPG

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