Sign me up Shooter! I’ll definitely take one.
Sign me up Shooter! I’ll definitely take one.
Sure thing!! :)
Pete, I ran it one more time with the strut a little deeper. Ran fine but it being my third run of the season I hit everything on the pond. Culminating in an annihilation of the back straight entrance pin. Zero damage to the boat. Honestly, for as little time as I've got on it I'm pretty excited.
Noisy person
Whats causing the hull to chatter in the turns? Does too much inward angle of turnfin cause this? Hull running too wet or heavy in the nose? I do not know...just asking?
Good question. Only thing I can say is that it's rather common. Every race I've been to, half the pack is making that chatter. Typically on three point hydros/riggers. I wonder if it is the prop walk fighting the fin/rudder? Maybe it's loading up the flex shaft and then releasing?? I don't have a good answer. Hopefully someone will chime in.
Still might not be the right prop. May add dia and reduce pitch. More testing required.
Noisy person
Going out to Ann Arbor tonight to cut some kits! :)
Haha. Cool. I have relatives in Alpena. We spend a lot of time there!
Primed, sanded, and primed again, in white. I'm hoping to get it on the water next Wednesday night.
Last edited by Shooter; 04-12-2019 at 02:56 PM.
Wet sanded with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. Everytime I do this I question why I just removed a perfectly good gloss paint finish, but the end result is worlds better. No orange peel. Mirror finish. Next up is to polish with 3M.
I promised myself I wouldn't spend the time doing this with another boat, but this one is special. It's serial #001!! Haha.
Are you shooting Klass Kote Clear over top of Klass Kote Pigment using gloss hardener?
I don't plan to clearcoat. This is what I've done so far...
(6) coats of KK white primer. Sanded with 400 after coats (3) and (6).
(3) coats KK color. Wet sanded 800, 1000, 1500, 2000.
The boat is dull right now, but smooth as silk. It should polish up nicely.
I've used the KK clear before with the gloss hardener. It worked very well and was surprisingly compatible with my airbrush paint. Went right over it with no issues. I've heard it yellows over time though. Especially noticeable over white.
Same method I used on my whip....
I haven't used the clear over color but have used it over wood. It does yellow. I like that look on wood though.
Noisy person
Burnin' the midnight oil last night. The paint polished up nicely. It's not perfect, but decent. Man, those sponson bottoms are absolutely cherry!!
G'day, Pete.
Could you please cut a kit for me too when you start making them.
Looks great.
Cheers.
Paul.
See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
Nicely done. Looks as smooth as gellcote!!
Cheetah, Super Rio, (Mod) Starship (Mod and sold),
Thanks!
Sure thing Paul. Would love to send one out your way.
The ESC fits in the side pocket. Makes for a really clean look. Little tubing and/or wires exposed.
Steering is a 3mm SS rod that is threaded at both ends. Ball cup at the servo and a Dubro? fitting at the rudder. The pin fits real snug in the rudder for a virtually "no slop" steering set-up.
I also open up the hole in the speedmaster rudder bracket to allow for a 10mm brass tube through the transom. Aquacraft boot fits nicely on a 10mm diameter. O-ring holds it in place. I think Mike showed me this brass rod trick.
I use a nylon bolt on the back for rudder break-away.
Pete, you need to block the riding surfaces not polish them! Wet sand with 400.
Pete...Great job on #001...:). Looks amazing. Love the room you have for the batteries and being able to put the ESC
in the side of the the tube area. Still working on all my boats here. Not sure what I’m going to have completed by race day...lol.
I know we talked earlier about picking up one of these. Hope I’m still on the list....:). If not make sure and add me back on there for one of these kits.
Again GREAT JOB!
Talk to ya soon
Mike
Hey a Pete I thought I would share my last Pearl build. Can’t wait to get the new version. F6868792-4E56-4694-B734-0473E1BF5067.jpg
Ahh, now I see, it's a Neu 1415,not a Castle 1415.
Nortavlag Bulc
Tim,
Your new boat looks great!!! Do you have any videos of it running?
Well, I finally was able to run my spec version. The first run was not nearly as good as Terry’s. It was planted to the water, had a slight hop, and hooked in the turns. Turns out that my strut was way too low. (naturally, after posting that I don’t like making strut adjustments). Anyhow, I raised it by a whole ¼” and it ran much better. I’ll have to get it back on the board and see exactly where that puts the prop center in relation to the sponson bottoms. Seems this boat likes to run with a high strut. Maybe the air bleeds are working too well! Boat doesn't want to get loose. This might allow us to run lighter set-ups in the future. Time will tell!
Putting the final touches on her. I’m holding off on sending out any kits because I really need to get a better understanding of the performance of this boat. It could be that the AOA is too shallow (2°). By raising my strut like I did, I essentially increased the AOA to closer to 3°. (i.e. the boat needs to drag it's a$$ to get the correct AOA to float).
A quick benchmark shows that most boats are in the 3° range with the exception of my ML which is completely flat (0°).
Any thoughts??
Pete
My $0.02 - Flat on bottom of hull to sponson bottom - - 3 to 3.5 degrees
Then if you want to reduce the AOA - lower your strut.
Larry
Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
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