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Thread: The Black Pearl LSH Spec Hydro 2019

  1. #1

    Default The Black Pearl LSH Spec Hydro 2019

    Hi everyone. First off, thanks for making the P-Sport version of this boat such a success. I obviously don’t do this for a profit, so it’s nice to hear success stories! Some of the known accomplishments are listed below:

    IMPBA World Record Holder, P-Sport Hydro, 1/3 Mile Oval
    2018 IMPBA FE National Champion, Leonard, MI
    2015/2016/2017 Michigan Cup Champion, Leonard, MI
    2014/2015/2016/2017/2018 MMEU Club Champion, Macomb, MI
    2017 Atlanta Spring Nationals Champion, Atlanta, GA
    2017/2018 Northern Lights CAN-AM Champion, Stoney Creek, Ontario

    Over the last few years, folks have been asking for a smaller version of the boat. This is finally in the works. The CAD is done and the first few kits have been laser cut. There are some aggressive design changes over the original Black Pearl, so it will be interesting to see results. A few of us are building prototype boats with hopes to test them in the Spring. If all goes well, I will offer a kit.

    Features Include:
    >Increased tapered air bleeds to reduce pressure under the hull
    >Aggressive airfoil
    >Direct fit for UL-1 hatch and nose
    >Dedicated electric motor mount and servo mount built into the frame
    >Center location marks (vector laser) on all frames for easy construction.

    Overall Length: 31in
    Overall Width: 15.8in
    BTW, if this boat is a success, the P-Sport version will be updated with these changes!!

    Build thread to follow…
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  2. #2

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    The first few frame pcs were fitted and glued using West Systems. All the joints will be glassed at a later time. I’ve found that having a ‘centerline’ alone does not guarantee a straight boat. There can always be warping/twisting between frame pcs, so I’ve adopted this gridpaper approach. Works for me!
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  3. #3

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    The front of the boat was built with the ride surfaces flat against the build surface (boat is tipped forwards). The transom has the same height over the build board at each side to avoid any twist.
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  4. #4

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    Fitted and glued the 1/8” spruce sticks. Sanded the bottom flat using a long block sander. Marked center points on the bottom sheet using the laser marks on the frame pcs. Then, used a straight edge to draw a centerline. Dabbed some WS on the bottom of the frame and dropped it onto the bottom sheet using the centerline.
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  5. #5

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    Been waiting on this forever..looking real good..I'm sure it's going to be a runner just like the p-sport..
    JOHN A. GROSS
    MILLBROOK, AL
    Crickety Crack Racing Team

  6. #6

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    Hey Shooter, when will this kit be available?

  7. #7

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    I'm hoping to have it ready in the Spring of 2019 assuming the testing goes well.

    Started working on some of the sponson details. One of the frames is glued directly to the other to form the "Ty Davis" recovery pad geometry.
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  8. #8

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    Starting to take shape. BTW, that built-in motor mount IS wood! I will put some glass over it. Should be plenty strong.
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  9. #9

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    Working on the air bleeds and the sponson interface frame.
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  10. #10

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    Looking Good.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  11. #11

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    Pete
    What is the width of the opening for the cowl.
    Is it much narrower then the "P" Black Pearl

    I would to know if this new cowl I made will fit?
    Here is a picture of it on my Black Pearl.

    Larrty
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    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  12. #12

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    TRUCKPULL, how much would you charge to make me a cowl like that? I really want one.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by robstercraws View Post
    TRUCKPULL, how much would you charge to make me a cowl like that? I really want one.
    Tim
    $50.00 US + shipping to OR (about 15 to 20 $)

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  14. #14

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    Hi Larry,

    Yes, the new limited boat has a much narrower hatch. I'll have to get you some numbers. The airfoil is much more aggressive though. It really dips down in the front, so the curvature might not fit. We will have to see.

  15. #15

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    Hi Larry,

    Yes, the new limited boat has a much narrower hatch. I'll have to get you some numbers. The airfoil is much more aggressive though. It really dips down in the front, so the curvature might not fit. We will have to see.

  16. #16

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    Pete
    The cowl at the front is flat across, and sticks out 3 1/2" from the base of the windshield, Even with the built in curvature it is still very flexible and can be taped down, With very slight pressure the front edge can be lowered up to about 3/4".

    Can you measure the gap height at the front with a "P" cowl on the LSH Hull, two see the difference.

    I think it will still work, the large flat areas on this cowl are fairly flexible.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  17. #17

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    Larry,

    The hatch on the LSH boat is 112mm wide.

    The gap height is only about 5mm, so if your cowl is flexible it shouldn't have any problems fitting. Turns out that the LSH nose doesn't curve down aggressively until the portion in front of the hatch edge.

  18. #18

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    Hello Pete

    112mm wide is fine. The bubble width on this cowl at the widest point where it returns to the flat on each side is 95mm.

    I also did a test on this material.

    It can be adjusted very easily. I used a hobby heat gun, (Low Heat) With the front of the cowl (1" over the edge of my bench)

    Slight heat - Press the front down a little bit - let cool - Done.

    Here is a picture of a 1" wide flat strip that I did, to see how much I could move it, I think I could have made a circle out of it.

    Larry
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  19. #19

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    Nice Larry! Yes, I think it will work!

    I made a little more progress on the spec boat. Sanded the side face in prep for skin. I still pre-bend the skins with a heat gun prior to gluing. Reduces internal stresses and helps keep the boat straight IMO, but who knows!
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  20. #20

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    I originally planned for this interface frame to be sanded at an angle to sit flush with the main frame pcs. Since I'm using epoxy for the entire build I didn't bother sanding it to shape. Put this on the list of things NOT to do! Unfortunately, now it sits too proud. It will have to be sanded down a significant amount so the recovery pads are flat and do not have anhedral.
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  21. #21

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    I glued the sponson side skin. Also, used a curved lexan body scissors to trim the excess skin after the epoxy cured. Who'd a thunk it?? Sure beats sanding, and breathing dust. The less dust I breath, the more cigars I will be able to smoke!
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  22. #22

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    Not sure if you have one of these Pete. Time saver for sure.

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-3-in...-Plane/4062649
    glue sniffer

  23. #23

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    That is a really cool little planer! Definitely worth $10!

  24. #24

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    Easier than the Lexan scissors too.

    I used to just drop onto the belt sander to cleave off lots a material. Potential for disaster was high. Potential reached multiple times.
    glue sniffer

  25. #25

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    Lookin great Pete! That's a first for the heat gun trick on the skins for me, do you dampin the skins first before applying the heat??
    thanks brian

  26. #26

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    Thanks Brian. No, I didn't dampen them, but I'm sure that would work even better.

  27. #27

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    I decided to rip the sponson apart and start over. That interface piece was just too proud of the surface. Here is the difference between the old and new cut part (about 4mm at the crest of the curve).
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  28. #28

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    I sanded the angle on the new parts and glued them in.
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  29. #29

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    Sanded the side face again and glued the new sponson side. Take 2!!
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  30. #30

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    A little more work. Sanded the frame down and glued on the ride pad.
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