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Thread: The Black Pearl LSH Spec Hydro 2019

  1. #61

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    That nose piece turned out to be about 11/16" on my boat which of course doesn't exist in the store. It will be 3/4" on most peoples boats though.
    glue sniffer

  2. #62

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    I think the air bleeds need to be level with the bottom of the fuselage . The way it looks now its a tub, making it a rigger...just say'n.

    Cheers, Jay.

  3. #63

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    I checked the model, it was designed for a 3/4" halfround stock at the nose. I allowed a little bit of xtra for sanding and blending into the upper and lower sheeting.

    Jay - she meets all the rules including transom width ratio. Designed in the spirit of a sport hydro with some innovations!

  4. #64

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    Pete, please let me know when a kit will be available. I’m looking forward ro building a pearl with these mods.

  5. #65

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Glued the inside pad.
    So what's the theory behind the 2 tiered pads? I don't have a lot of exposure to RC hydros just yet but I haven't seen that used yet. Just curious...if it's a trade secret I'll understand :)

  6. #66

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    Hi Pete, I know all your measurements will be correct. kinda like my FE30,looks like a sport hydro from the top , a little different from the bottom.

    I built the P version with a friend who lost his wife last year and it has been great therapy for him. Its not perfect ( not with my wood building skills) but with a little filler and paint it will look great at 5' if you squint! We've had a lot of laughs building it.

    You can put me down for a limited version once you get all the bugs worked out. Next winters build!

    Cheers, Jay,

  7. #67

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    Quote Originally Posted by jaike5 View Post
    Its not perfect ( not with my wood building skills) but with a little filler and paint it will look great at 5' if you squint! We've had a lot of laughs building it.
    We call that a 50mph finish.
    glue sniffer

  8. #68

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    Quote Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
    So what's the theory behind the 2 tiered pads? I don't have a lot of exposure to RC hydros just yet but I haven't seen that used yet. Just curious...if it's a trade secret I'll understand :)
    No secrets! Just trying to apply a little dynamics. A hydro requires pressure underneath to support the weight. The pressure is built by trapping air. If you trap too much air and the pressure is too high, the boat blows over. That's why there are speed limits to hulls. Back when we were running NiCad's, we never reached the speed limits so we wanted to trap as much air as possible. Nowadays, the technology is much better and boats are considerably faster, so we need to trap less air to build the same pressure to hold the boat up. The idea behind the sponson vents is to allow the air to escape or 'bleed out'.

  9. #69

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    Quote Originally Posted by jaike5 View Post
    Hi Pete, I know all your measurements will be correct. kinda like my FE30,looks like a sport hydro from the top , a little different from the bottom.

    I built the P version with a friend who lost his wife last year and it has been great therapy for him. Its not perfect ( not with my wood building skills) but with a little filler and paint it will look great at 5' if you squint! We've had a lot of laughs building it.

    You can put me down for a limited version once you get all the bugs worked out. Next winters build!

    Cheers, Jay,
    Hopefully I'll get to see it in person in June!! Any pics??

  10. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    We call that a 50mph finish.
    That 50mph finish We call one of the faster boats on the Lake !!

  11. #71

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Hopefully I'll get to see it in person in June!! Any pics??
    Hope to make it in June Pete, sorry no pics. We just drilled for hard ware. going to put the skins on the deck. sand/fill sand and paint before the thaw. Its going to be green and yellow, Jon has a big collection of John Deere stuff !!
    Cheers, Jay.

  12. #72

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    A little more work done. The nose contour was designed to fit the UL-1. I cut about an inch off the edge of the hatch. Other than that, it fits perfectly. Just need to add the 3/4" half-round to the front. I also fabricated the motor mount out of aluminum and started mocking up the stuffing tube.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #73

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    I had no 1/4 tubing in the shop. How the heck does that happen
    .20190324_212219.jpg
    glue sniffer

  14. #74

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    What cooling can is that??

  15. #75

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    haha You know what that is mister. That suckers worth more than the whole build. Had a hell of a time getting the O rings to seat properly. Ended up hitting the groove with a dremel and a sanding paddle.
    glue sniffer

  16. #76

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    Does that cooling can have spiral grooves inside? Like this...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpp1BfCT3as

  17. #77

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    Quote Originally Posted by macomb View Post
    What cooling can is that??
    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    haha You know what that is mister. That suckers worth more than the whole build. Had a hell of a time getting the O rings to seat properly. Ended up hitting the groove with a dremel and a sanding paddle.
    Seems like there is some sort of patent infringement or Licensing violation going on... LOL

    Your O-rings were the wrong size then.... assuming there wasn't any shrinkage with a change in the material/printer. All of the cans off my printer install just fine with the O-rings I designed for.

  18. #78

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    It was the quality of the surface inside. Wasn't a size issue. The surface on mine turned out rough. Little bit of slop. Once I got that out of there it was fine.

    It's a very trick design Mike. You out did yourself. Hope they work as well as we think.
    glue sniffer

  19. #79

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    Stuffing tube is glassed in. Mike showed me how to do this. Doesn't look like much, but it literally has become part of the boat. I only used about four drops of West Systems and 15 or so pcs of very lightweight cloth layered in various directions. Very strong bond.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  20. #80

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Stuffing tube is glassed in. Mike showed me how to do this. Doesn't look like much, but it literally has become part of the boat. I only used about four drops of West Systems and 15 or so pcs of very lightweight cloth layered in various directions. Very strong bond.
    Nice job Pete! As I have told you before, your a much better builder than I am. I never understood why a huge circular or rectangular dam filled with really brittle epoxy was the preferred choice!

  21. #81

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    Stuffing tube is glassed in. Mike showed me how to do this. Doesn't look like much, but it literally has become part of the boat. I only used about four drops of West Systems and 15 or so pcs of very lightweight cloth layered in various directions. Very strong bond.

    You need to try a “sleeve” for the stuffing tube. It’s a great system.

  22. #82

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    Quote Originally Posted by longballlumber View Post
    Nice job Pete! As I have told you before, your a much better builder than I am. I never understood why a huge circular or rectangular dam filled with really brittle epoxy was the preferred choice!
    Thanks. Not sure I would go that far, but my boats definitely seem to last! I'm not sure why people are still using the old method of the epoxy blob. Maybe you should make a build tip thread!?! Here's a nice photo to use... I doubt anyone would go back to the old way if they knew about this method.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  23. #83

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    Well, all that work over the winter working on the geometry paid off. The UL-1 hatch and nose fit like a glove. Very nice, tight fit. Looking forward to getting some paint on this and seeing what she does!

    If it runs OK, I'll start offering kits. It's going to be a lot different this time around. Probably going to sell frames for only around $60 since there will be no hatch (use the UL-1) or skins (full scale print outs provided to trace and cut).
    Attached Images Attached Images

  24. #84

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    Looks nice!...Get canopies and hatch covers while you can though. I'm already having issues getting some parts for my UL-1 now that it has been discontinued. Tower seems to have a bunch in stock for now.

  25. #85

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    Quote Originally Posted by longballlumber View Post
    You need to try a “sleeve” for the stuffing tube. It’s a great system.
    I tried that in Ty's Q. The stuffing tube moved in the sleeve and bent all to heck. I didn't know you were supposed to tack that thing with solder.
    glue sniffer

  26. #86

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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    I tried that in Ty's Q. The stuffing tube moved in the sleeve and bent all to heck. I didn't know you were supposed to tack that thing with solder.
    I use retaining compound like Loctite 638. I've actually used the red stuff we got as grab bags at Michigan races. No need to solder, it would melt the sleeve glue joint.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  27. #87

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    Yep, understand the sleeve method. Probably the best way to go. It provides plenty of advantages including not only adjustment, but replacement of the stuffing tube at any time. Since I set up all my boats to run with prop center at bottom of spons and never change it, I just glass the whole thing in.

    I know I'm going to get murdered on this forum for the statement above, but I try to rely on hull design to make corrections rather than prop thrust angles and heights. Example: If she's blowing off, I hate wasting thrust by aiming the prop down into the water. I'd rather find a way to bleed off air. Vice versa, if she's glued to the water, I'd rather find a way to pack in more air. If the strut height is wrong, then the AOA on the sponsons needs to be adjusted.

  28. #88

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    Pete, all of my hydros start with the bottom of the strut level with the sponson depth. Not the center of the prop. Not say'n I'm right. Just how I do it.
    glue sniffer

  29. #89

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    Interesting...so that makes my strut about 3/16" deeper than yours. Theoretically, if the props ride at the same height (probably very prop dependent based on prop lift???), then your sponson AOA would be higher.

  30. #90

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    Some good news!! Terry was able to test the new spec hull over the weekend. Below are a couple videos. These are literally the first two runs EVER...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tx_1fFGERc

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwQ9ScqPd2U

    Overall, I think the design is very promising. Runs and handles quite well, especially considering it hasn’t even been trimmed out! I will start cutting kits next week. With everyone’s input, mods, and tweaks, I think we can make this boat a real winner! BTW, I was also able to see Ty’s full P-Sport running. That thing amazes me every time I see it.

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