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Thread: Mini rigger setup

  1. #1
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    Default Mini rigger setup

    Hi everyone
    I'm planning a mini rigger build (light build if I can or possible under 3lbs) tossing a few things around was wondering if I can get feedback.

    *BBY Racing mini rigger 24"
    *TP 2920 (4800kv)
    *esc hobbywing seaking pro 120a (2s-6s)
    *Revolectrix 5000mah 2s lipo 70c silver label
    " 2500mah 2s
    " 3100mah 2s
    " 4400mah 2s
    " 5800mah 2s (1 of these batteries)
    *Ed Hughey hardware set
    *.062 wire drive w/3/16 prop shaft

    I'll be running this in a small/medium pond somewhat no racing just a little screamer to go ovals as far as lipos selection I listed others for weight to run time ratios.
    So yeah guys what do u all think please lmk the more the better good or bad it's all good......much appreciated in advance.

  2. #2
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    Feb 2008
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    Default

    I don't know that particular hull, but if you substituted a 2930, and an M4 shaft it would be a pretty typical 2s Hydro1 size and setup. I would be surprised if you couldn't build it under 3lb, the best boats weigh about 1kg (2.2lb) RTR.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  3. #3
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    It's a Randy Naylor(BBY Racing) rigger kit from the 1990s been stored away along with my Ed Hughey hardware set figured I'll use what I have add modern technology to her and see what she can do.

    Looked more into it as u suggested here's what I came up with:
    Btw 4mm shaft has to be custom ordered as per TP Power USA website 2wk turn around time.

    TP2930 4960kv 6D @96amp max
    TP2920 11000kv 2y @103amp max
    TP2920 7900kv 3y @100amp max
    TP2920 6400kv 4y @81amp max
    All fall within hobbywing seaking pro 120a esc

    TP2930 7350kv 4D @150amp max
    Exceeds hobbywing seaking pro 120a esc.....will need to upgrade definetly

    TP2930 5750kv 5D @120amp max
    Maxed out @ limit hobbywing seaking pro 120esc....will need to upgrade?

    The numbers of the TP2920 is crazy can these motors be used in my rigger setup? Overkill?
    What kind of run times am I to expect with the batteries mentioned?
    What run times are 2s hydro 1 class run?

  4. #4
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    We generally use 5000-5500kv for 2s in a hydro1, but with a 36mm low blade area prop on an M4 shaft, if you use a 3/16" shaft your smallest prop is an X438 which is a lot more load, you would want 4500kv at the most for the same amp draw. Hydro1 run for 6 mins now, but when 2s was more popular it was 5 mins (most folk run 3s now), average amp draws are/were 60-70A and peak amp draws 100-120, so pretty safe on a 120A ESC. 90A ESCs are not enough.

    What do you want from the boat, if you want it for SAWs only ie 10 seconds of runtime, then bring it in slowly to cool down and tweak things. You could step up to a bigger ESC and probably use a 2920 6400kv, and maybe even get away with a 2930 7350kv. But there are no safe SAWs setups, I think everyone that has run SAWs has burned something up.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  5. #5
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    What would be recommended 3/16" step down 1/8" shaft (OSE has in stock)?...for use with my 3/16" strut
    1/8" shaft and use micro strut 1/8" (OSE has in stock)?....idk maybe too small?
    Using .062 wire as mentioned.

    As far as SAW speed runs not enough room here and not for me.
    Setting up this rigger mainly for ovals to scream around 4-5mins....with room to spare 1-2mins left in the tank?
    Any suggestions on motor/2s/3s combo

  6. #6
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    After watching vids on naviga hydro1/riggers thats what I'm aiming towards.....perfect for my area.
    Recommendations on various motor kv/lipo 2s...3s mah combos

  7. #7
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    I use stub shafts stepped down from 4mm to 1/8" (1/8" all the way bends too easily, and if you put ball bearings round a 3/16" shaft the strut has to be way bigger than the prop hub), with a detongued and back cut X435, but only because I have a box full of Octuras, If I was starting from scratch I would use an M4 threaded stub which alows the use of a bunch of good low blade area CNC props in 1mm increments DrProp, Tenshock, TP and ETTI all make good ones that I would rate in that order.

    Generally they use a 28x60mm ish motor, though some do use very short 36mm motors, 2s use 5000-5500kv, 3s use 3000-3400kv. 2s batteries are 6600 ish, 3s are 5000 ish (batteries are flat after a 6 min race and dont last long, for fun running run for 4.5 mins, or use 8000 for 2s and 6000 for 3s like our limiter setups). 2s use 120A ESC, 3s use 100-120 A. Props for both are usually about 36mm low blade area types. 1.5mm and .062" (1.6mm) wires are normally used. M4 threaded stubs are normally used. Boats are built as light as possible, 1kg is a good target weight, I dont think I have seen one under 900g, and 1200 is a porky rough water boat.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  8. #8
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    I already have a 3/16" strut....062 wire to 3/16" shaft step down to 1/8" shaft would be the way to go. I've checked out the 4mm threaded shaft w/bearings in the strut thinking about going that route came across MarineFE they have it but its 2wk turn around time.
    Who else makes a complete hardware set 4mm strut/rudder assembly w/mounting brackets?
    Who makes the .062 wire drive 4mm shaft completely assembled and ready to go?

  9. #9
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    I am not a fan of strut/rudder combos, too much weight too much flex and not enough adjustment for me. but of you really want one I know ETTI do one with their BB strut. As your not racing BBs in the strut probably aren't important to you, bearings or bushings will work fine, so maybe a strudder from a chinese RTR, as I think they normally use 4mm stub shafts.

    I get my wire stubs made locally. Jeff Wohlt is your man in the USA for wire drives, it wouldn't be a stock item but I am pretty sure he will make it to order for you.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

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