Results 1 to 26 of 26

Thread: Total noob 1/8th scale ML 172 extreme

  1. #1

    Default Total noob 1/8th scale ML 172 extreme

    I got a box of sticks that that some how will become the 2013 oh boy! Oberto. IMG_7770.jpg

  2. #2

    Default

    IMG_7981.jpg This looks like a good place to start. How can I screw this up? Fits perfect in those little dotted lines.

  3. #3

    Default

    IMG_8075 (1).jpg More dotted lines(I can do this)(maybe)!

  4. #4

    Default

    IMG_8076 (1).jpg IMG_8077 (1).jpg IMG_8254.jpg Soo clean...except where I touched it, with my gluey fingers. Yes yes, the motor will go here and the batteries will go there, it will be wonderful. More dotted lines.

  5. #5

    Default

    IMG_8251.jpg It was all going so well, and then a beavis and butthead moment...ummm..uh..huh-huh-huh..what the hell does this mean?

  6. #6

    Default

    How are you going to install and remove batteries once the motor in installed?

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Twood69 View Post
    How are you going to install and remove batteries once the motor in installed?
    IMG_9054.jpg Just to clarify and qualify anything you see and read from me here; I have no idea what I'm doing...but to your question, I am removing a portion of the frame, to gain access. And I will put back what I cut out, a bit further back, for strength.

  8. #8

    Default

    Here's a couple pics from the ML Elam I did a short while back. The packs were forward of the motor/ESC with just enough room to lift them in and out. Hope this helps....
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Giant Power Team Driver
    - IMPBA Hydro Technical Director - IMPBA District 12 Scale Director -

  9. #9

    Default

    Wow! That is a real nice job on that Elam. Did that kit have cockpit inside frames, that dipped down for, I am assuming, the rear sponson outline? like this? IMG_9232.jpg

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tetefroid View Post
    Wow! That is a real nice job on that Elam. Did that kit have cockpit inside frames, that dipped down for, I am assuming, the rear sponson outline? like this? IMG_9232.jpg
    Actually no I had to hand make mine
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Giant Power Team Driver
    - IMPBA Hydro Technical Director - IMPBA District 12 Scale Director -

  11. #11

    Default

    Don, thank you for that. I am struggling with those rear sponsons, especially the left side (on the 1/8th scale) because the frames on the 172 extreme kit do not allow me to make the rear sponson to scale, or make them look like the real ones anywayrear sponson1.jpg. The real ones turn out and up and are kind of 1/4 torpedo shaped, while yours, and the way I'm forced to do mine, with the frames the way they are, is to turn in and up. And then they are to long to make it look like the real ones. Ugh and I am confused by just trying to describe it. lol. I wish I understand the intention from ML.

  12. #12

    Default

    Tetefroid.
    There is a bit of detail in post #23 & post #33 on how I did mine in this build thread, if it is of any help. Pretty much the same as Don I think.

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ale-Hydroplane

  13. #13

    Default

    [QUOTE=785boats;727666]Tetefroid.
    There is a bit of detail in post #23 & post #33 on how I did mine in this build thread, if it is of any help. Pretty much the same as Don I think.

    785boats, if that truly is your real name,(lol just kidding) Thank you for the example, I am not there yet, but I think you have inspired me to use that cockpit you used for mine (we'll see). But back to these tricky rear sponsons: hope you don't mind, I stole a picture of your rear pads:rearspon1.4.jpg to use for an example of a question I have, so the boat will turn right, meaning the transom will slide left, did you install a fairing on your left pad to keep the rear from "tripping" in the turns, and how did it turn out?

  14. #14

    Default

    He!He! No. The real name is Paul.
    I left the ride surfaces flat.
    If you go to post #9 & watch the video of them flipping over the boat, you will see that they are flat. Just pause the video at various stages.
    I know it is a different boat but they are basicaly the same hull. Just without the big holes in the main tub.
    The boat isn't finished yet, so it is untested.
    Cheers.

  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    He!He! No. The real name is Paul.
    I left the ride surfaces flat.
    If you go to post #9 & watch the video of them flipping over the boat, you will see that they are flat. Just pause the video at various stages.
    I know it is a different boat but they are basicaly the same hull. Just without the big holes in the main tub.
    The boat isn't finished yet, so it is untested.
    Cheers.
    rearspons.jpg Hey Paul, this is the best picture I could find so far, not a great one, of the slide side of the rear sponsons. As you can see it's seems to be a two piece fairing so the rear sponson does not "trip" in the turn. The other side is a one piece fairing and is flat.

  16. #16

  17. #17

    Default

    Thank you. Man that was such a beautiful boat! R.I.P. Bernie. I'm having difficulties scaling those rear sponsons, that's a great picture but the angle makes it hard to determine the size.

  18. #18

    Default

    Shaping the left rear sponson, non-trip fairings. Tricky for someone who lacks the skills like me (and a good picture to go by):leftrearsponson1.3.jpg leftrearsponson1.1.jpg leftrearsponson1.jpg

  19. #19

    Default

    IMG_0258.jpg Woa....WTH fellas...used this 30min epoxy for the sponson step, clamped her down for 6 hours, removed clamps and it pop off. And I did sand both surfaces before i tried to glue it...any ideas?

  20. #20

    Default

    30 min slow epoxy can be handled after 8 hours. Full cure time is 24 hours. Sounds like you did not wait long enough. 30 min is just your working time.

    Something you may want to try in the future is titebond iii. Just as strong as epoxy and much quicker bonding times. Must be wood to wood bond.



    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  21. #21

    Default

    That stuff looks promising, I'm going to order a bottle and check it out. Thank you for the suggestion.

  22. #22

    Default

    Been working on the sponsons, those compound curves are a pain, especially when trying to clamp the sheeting....IMG_0452.jpg

  23. #23

    Default

    Did the sponsons steps: IMG_0475.jpg I haven't done the runners yet : IMG_0523.jpg IMG_0524.jpg Gawd that camera makes it look awful...and maybe it is...I need glasses.

  24. #24

    Default

    Also did the top decks finally, did an experiment with the spray foam and the total boat epoxy I am using for the decks, It seems the Epoxy will adhere very well to the spray foam. Not sure if I can just use it in place of 3/16x3/16 and 1/4x1/4 stock, glued to the frames or not...IMG_0403 (1).jpg IMG_0521.jpg IMG_0519.jpg
    Last edited by Tetefroid; 03-16-2019 at 06:25 PM.

  25. #25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mpschofield View Post
    30 min slow epoxy can be handled after 8 hours. Full cure time is 24 hours. Sounds like you did not wait long enough. 30 min is just your working time.

    Something you may want to try in the future is titebond iii. Just as strong as epoxy and much quicker bonding times. Must be wood to wood bond.



    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    second the Titebond.... it has held together 5 of my guitars and a banjo (2 of them headstock repairs, taking all the string tension) for many years now... all of these have been repaired with Titebond...

    guitars.jpg

  26. #26

    Default

    Nice. I will be using that stuff on my next boat, for
    sure.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •