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Thread: ML Boatworks RSX380 Outrigger! My first FE wood kit build...

  1. #241
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    Another evening of building. Soldered up the second cable. Drilled the sponson tubes and aligned everything.

    Bolted it all together, just a mock up since I've still got epoxy on the outside and painting to do yet.

    Last picture shows a clean head on front view.

    Using electrical tape for now instead of heat shrink tubing for test fitting...


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  2. #242
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    If, I reassembled everything...

    And, if I hooked up the radio...

    And, if the reservoir wasn't frozen...

    This would actually float and I could take it for a maiden test run.

    The first coat of epoxy is on...

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  3. #243
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    Looks great. are you going to leave hull / sponsons natural or are they going to be painted ?

  4. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by rol243 View Post
    Looks great. are you going to leave hull / sponsons natural or are they going to be painted ?
    I'm going to try a combination of natural and painted scheme.

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  5. #245
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    Laid down the first color. I'm using Klass Kote two part epoxy paint applied with a brush.

    I prepped the first coat of epoxy on the sponsons with Klass Kote reducer(last picture) after sanding them. It's what they recommend, or a high-grade lacquer thinner. I didn't want to chance using denatured alcohol.

    I used the reducer on a napkin, and wiped them down with quick strokes. I could feel it wanting to cut/etch the cured epoxy. So just a quick wipe and let them dry.

    This paint flows nicely. Painting with a brush is just a matter of using enough paint on the brush to keep it flowing. It lays down nice and flat. I don't have any fish eyes...

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    Last edited by sammyha; 12-10-2018 at 10:03 AM.

  6. #246
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    I pulled the tape as soon as the paint was tacky. It's still soft and the tape cuts the paint easily.

    Here you can see the how smooth the finish is. You can even see the acid brushes and freezer paper in the reflection...

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    Last edited by sammyha; 12-09-2018 at 11:09 AM.

  7. #247
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    Here's the epoxy paints I'm using. I have a link where to buy this on Ebay in post #209...

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  8. #248
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    The color layout that I'm going with using white and orange and leaving part of the boat natural.

    I love seeing the woodwork. I would go all natural except to me that's a little boring...

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  9. #249
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    That is SWEET, love the contrast.
    I have power tool's, it will fit

  10. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldbikerarlo View Post
    That is SWEET, love the contrast.
    Well, thank you very much... I try to take the time to make them pretty too!

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  11. #251
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    I want to talk about an alignment problem I had with the sponson tubes and how I fixed them.

    After I epoxied on the top sheeting, I assembled the boat for a once over. And I noticed a twist in the sponson rods. I could see it from the front, they were not parallel to each other.

    The sponson tubes were not perfectly straight in the sponsons !

    After I carefully built them flat and square.

    This meant they would run at different angles!

    Here's how I found out which sponson tubes were causing the twist...

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    Last edited by sammyha; 12-10-2018 at 10:09 PM.

  12. #252
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    Assemble the sponsons with only one boom at a time in place.

    With only the front boom engaged, the sponsons are now free to sit at the angle of the sponson tubes. I checked both sponsons for squareness.

    Then I put in the back boom only, and checked both sponsons for squareness.

    The front right and back left sponson tubes were tilted down. So opposite corners tilted down, hence the twist.

    This twists the booms and the angle of the sponsons to each other.

    How do you move a sponson tube that is closed up inside a sponson and epoxied in place?

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    Last edited by sammyha; 12-10-2018 at 10:37 PM.

  13. #253
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    I cut a square in the sheeting around the tube I wanted to move.

    Then I trimmed some off the top side of the square cutout in the sponson.

    I'm only talking about moving it maybe 1/32", which is a lot when that translates across to the other sponson. It easily flexed that much with one side cut free.

    This way I don't lose the integrity of the epoxy joints on the inside.

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    Last edited by sammyha; 12-10-2018 at 09:54 PM.

  14. #254
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    I trimmed an angle on the square opening to get more epoxy in the saw cut.

    Then filed them flat and sanded them level...

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  15. #255
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    Here's how they turned out. Almost perfectly parallel...

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  16. #256
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    With both booms in place, both sides are square...

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    Last edited by sammyha; 12-10-2018 at 10:12 PM.

  17. #257
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    And here you can see they are running together. Actually the right ride pad has the slightly steeper angle Mike designed into it...

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    Last edited by sammyha; 12-10-2018 at 09:58 PM.

  18. #258
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    You can see the steeper angle here too. It's running a tiny bit off the counter at the front of the ride pad...

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  19. #259
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    For the first time builder...

    CHECK THIS BEFORE YOU EPOXY THEM IN!

    It would have been be so easy to file the side of the hole to align them.

    And next time, I think I would epoxy them in and assemble the sponsons together with the booms in place while they cure.

    In hindsight, I was totally depending on the sponsons coming out perfectly square to set up this sponson tube alignment.

    And the sponsons are such strong assemblies, the booms would twist the tub.

    I also notice the booms slide together easier now! 🧐

    I bet the experienced builders are saying "Uh huh... you better check them before you epoxy them in place" right about now...

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    Last edited by sammyha; 12-10-2018 at 10:06 PM.

  20. #260
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    Figuring out my colors scheme. Can you picture it?

    Not sure if I can pull off the CF inlays. Got an idea tho. Could substitute with black & white checkoring.

    I always seem to get myself into too much work. 🤨

    I developed this over a week or more. Pondering it on and off. The sketches really helps me...



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    Last edited by sammyha; 12-11-2018 at 10:50 AM.

  21. #261
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    Really busy, to me but it is your project.
    I have seen a CF effect done with window screen, using dark gray, as a base and a lighter gray, sprayed through the screen. It looked real close.
    I have power tool's, it will fit

  22. #262
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    Maybe it's the three views crammed on a piece of 8-1/2 x 11 sheet. I'll lay out the white and orange on the tub next. And what's staying natural.

    I've also learned to keep myself open to change. We'll see what I end up with...

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  23. #263
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    What a pain with the boom tube inserts.
    I know it is a bit late now, but post *4 in my build of the RSX310 rigger explains how I aligned the inserts.
    It could work for you if you build another rigger.

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ger&highlight=

  24. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    What a pain with the boom tube inserts.
    I know it is a bit late now, but post *4 in my build of the RSX310 rigger explains how I aligned the inserts.
    It could work for you if you build another rigger.

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ger&highlight=
    It's a shame I didn't find your thread before. I'll read this thru to see what else I can learn.

    Yes, spot on, that's a good way to establish that alignment. It must be done, no question. At least I got mine right(the hard way!) Thanks

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  25. #265
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    I'm sorry, I thought I posted a link to the build earlier in your thread. But apparently not.
    You've done a great job on your build.
    I've just read through the section on the strut. Please don't glue the floating bush into the strut as it is shown on the drawing. It is meant to float in the strut.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=XSAaeknjTxk

  26. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    I'm sorry, I thought I posted a link to the build earlier in your thread. But apparently not.
    You've done a great job on your build.
    I've just read through the section on the strut. Please don't glue the floating bush into the strut as it is shown on the drawing. It is meant to float in the strut.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=XSAaeknjTxk
    More good info a first time builder needs to know.

    So I loctited mine in, but only used a tiny bit. On the back end, only around that short flange diameter that fits the strut ID. It would be easy to heat, remove and clean the loctite off it.

    Here's my question tho. With the normal 3-5mm gap to the strut dog, what keeps the bushing from walking out of the strut?

    That's a poor design imo...

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  27. #267
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    Nothing stops the floating bush from floating in the 3-5mm gap, the idea of floating bushes is to reduce the rpm of the shaft against a fixed bush. With a fixed bush & say a shaft that is turning @ 35000rpm the wear on the shaft & bush if much higher than the floating bush design where ideally the bush would spin @ say half that speed in the strut which means the rpm of the shaft in the floating bush is also reduced. They dont normally spin together @ those rates but gives you some idea behind the floating bush design. This is why the bush must spin freely when using floating bushes, you also get a longer bearing area than 2 separate fixed bushing.

  28. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by martin View Post
    Nothing stops the floating bush from floating in the 3-5mm gap, the idea of floating bushes is to reduce the rpm of the shaft against a fixed bush. With a fixed bush & say a shaft that is turning @ 35000rpm the wear on the shaft & bush if much higher than the floating bush design where ideally the bush would spin @ say half that speed in the strut which means the rpm of the shaft in the floating bush is also reduced. They dont normally spin together @ those rates but gives you some idea behind the floating bush design. This is why the bush must spin freely when using floating bushes, you also get a longer bearing area than 2 separate fixed bushing.
    Thanks for your feedback. I take back my poor design comment. That makes sense.

    Still, I would like to see the length of the large diameter on the bushing longer than the strut gap. Or a retaining cap on the end of the strut...



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  29. #269
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    785boats, I read your thread. Well done, very informative. Here's something you mention that's not in the manual. Trimming the rear ride pad flush to the outside non trip sheet on the left sponson.

    I left a slight overhang on both sponsons. Nice and even and pretty. But wrong...

    Boy, I'll bet the rear ride pad overhang on the left sponson would cause some serious inexplicable over steer, would possibly even flip the rigger turning right!

    No problem to address that, it's left natural so I'll trim it flush...



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  30. #270
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    It shouldn't trip, as there is a slight dihedral angle to the left ridepad. I'm pretty sure that Mike left the overhang on the left sponson on his prototype.
    I just removed it on mine because that's what I do on all my hydros. No need to remove it if you don't want to.

    As for the floating bush, don't forget that the reason we leave a gap between the drive dog & the strut is for the shortening of the flex under load. So when running, the gap is much less, so the bushing doesn't move out as much as you think.
    Rest assured, the floating bush set up is a tried & true system. It's used by many boaters around the world, in electric, gas & nitro. They work well and last a long time.

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