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Thread: ML Boatworks RSX380 Outrigger! My first FE wood kit build...

  1. #61
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    Don't forget the batteries. It's amazing when you add everything up. Yow!

  2. #62
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    Got to pay to play. Got a couple helis cost twice that. I find you get what you pay for tho. Should be amazing.

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  3. #63
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    You cant put a price on fun.
    Team Liquid Dash

  4. #64
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    I just try not to add it all up.

  5. #65
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    I just did a copy, paste from my email order confirmation so the prices were there. Mostly for the SKU numbers.

    Also, for those who haven't built, price could be a consideration vs RTR...

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  6. #66
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    Man! OSE is the best online store out there!

    I got my order today. Three days and that includes the weekend. I put my order in Saturday. It was delivered today, Tuesday.

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  7. #67
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    First things first. I ordered the wrong brass tubing for the boom tubes. I ordered 3/8", should have ordered 11/32" to fit the 5/16" Zippkits boom tubes.

    That's 11/32" OD brass tubing. The ID fits the 5/16" OD carbon boom tubes.

    This is the struggle. I could not find that information readily. Now I realize the OSE website says the brass tubing stacks.

    Duh. Look at the tubing size list...

    I'll edit the list in post #58.

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  8. #68
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    Next is a mess I'm trying to understand with the Speedmaster strut. I ordered the large hydro strut for .187 prop shaft. Looks like I can't run the 9/32" brass stuffing tube with a teflon liner. Only a 1/4" brass tube will fit in the strut.

    I need some input here. The pictures in order explains what I think I have to do to assemble this.

    Using 1/4" brass tubing that I already had, running without a liner.

    Not sure why the prop shaft bushing is loose in the strut...

    And how will this stay in there?



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    Last edited by sammyha; 11-07-2018 at 06:49 AM.

  9. #69
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    Just ran 1/4 brass stuffing tube without liner and run the brass strut bushing inside the 1/4" stuffing tube, it will "float" a little but it will be fine.

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  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raydee View Post
    Just ran 1/4 brass stuffing tube without liner and run the brass strut bushing inside the 1/4" stuffing tube

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    Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. Looks like there's not a Speedmaster strut sized for a stuffing tube with a liner.

    So make the stuffing box go all the way thru the strut as shown in this sketch?

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  11. #71
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    That's it....perfect. you can also use a little silicone or loctite on the stuffing tube to lock it into the strut so it doesn't shift. I also use the next size up brass tube and glue a short piece of that into the boat. That way if you ever bend the stuffing tube it can easily be removed and replaced without having to cut it out of the boat.

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  12. #72
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    Oh man that's a good one! You mean going thru the hull. Sweet!

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  13. #73
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    Next thing. How is this 12" stuffing tube going to reach? That's all I saw on the OSE website, 12" lengths.

    Luckily the 1/4" tubing I had was way longer...

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    Last edited by sammyha; 10-18-2018 at 11:40 AM.

  14. #74
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    Sneak peak at some goodies!

    Then back to mixing some more epoxy. Sponsons are almost ready for sheeting.

    I'll post some pics of them soon...

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  15. #75
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    The sponsons are built flat on a board like the one on the right is sitting(first picture). They have cured and now I've removed them to epoxy the joints underneath(second picture).

    I'll pin them right back on the board to cure, and to epoxy the 3/16" strips and the bottom sheeting. Mike says don't glue anything on them without having them pinned down.

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    Last edited by sammyha; 10-18-2018 at 11:42 AM.

  16. #76
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    A teaser...

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  17. #77
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    And a size comparison to the Pro Boat UL-19, and a shot with me holding it...

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    Last edited by sammyha; 01-08-2019 at 05:03 PM.

  18. #78
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    Nice job. Looks great. I have the 31" and that's huge by comparison.

  19. #79
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    I bought the strut that was recommended in the manual. Then I see this in the ML RSX380, Big Brother... thread. Post was by MarkF, nice rigger and build.

    This strut moves the prop farther back. Is this desirable for a rigger?

    It's the Speedmaster Sport 20 strut, takes the same .187 prop shaft and 1/4" stuffing tube...

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    Last edited by sammyha; 10-18-2018 at 05:57 AM.

  20. #80
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    Based on CraigP's feedback in another thread, I can answer my question. Locating the prop farther back is desirable. The result would be a bit less sensitivity to pitch and yaw changes.

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  21. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhorowitz View Post
    Nice job. Looks great. I have the 31" and that's huge by comparison.
    Thanks. Very rewarding to build. Like many others, I enjoy building. Nice to work with a great design too. I want to experience a bigger boat. This should be a sweet ride..

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  22. #82
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    I updated the list on my initial order. I will continue to do that during my build to have a more complete and accurate list in one location, as I noted at the top of the list in post #58...

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  23. #83
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    Looking ahead, working some things out. This is some gorgeous hardware btw!

    This water jacket went on without a hitch. The O-rings slide nicely over the moter without lube.

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    Last edited by sammyha; 11-07-2018 at 06:51 AM.

  24. #84
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    I'm thinking about making hardwood stringers, and bolting them in. Then epoxy the carbon fiber mounts to them.

    Otherwise I won't be able to access the motor mount bolts for maintenance. Or to make a motor change if necessary...

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    Last edited by sammyha; 10-19-2018 at 08:40 AM.

  25. #85
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    Check out the quick change motor mounts from OSE. They have screws you can access from the top. I had the same problem on my RSX 310.

  26. #86
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    I'm not sure for how I missed this. Nice mount...

    https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...ose-AV-mount-4

    I still want to access the side screws on the mount itself. I'll see how bolt in stringers work out.

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  27. #87
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    Here's a concept sketch for removable stringers. Stringer on other side not shown...



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  28. #88
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    Here's another version after eyeballing the motor angle with coupler attached.

    It could be tied in with the stuffing tube mount epoxied to the floor block. The noted length would need to be adjusted, figuring for a prop saver in there too.

    Here's the link for the stuffing tube mount...

    https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...prod=ose-83010



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    Last edited by sammyha; 10-19-2018 at 01:46 PM.

  29. #89
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    Here's how I handled the motor mount for the Aeromarine Jersey Skiff - The hatch opening was really small and a motor in/out would be a nightmare with normal mounts - With this design the motor on it's plate can be easily unbolted from above with a hex wrench on a handle. (Of course this is weighty - 'tho the Skiff handles best with some ballast - also I had intended to make the bottom plate from CF but was out of stock of CF plate at the time) - Just to give you some "food for thought" - your design is super nice

    JS mount photos001.JPG JS mount photos003.JPG

    JS mount photos006.JPG JS mount photos007.JPG

    JS mount photos009.JPG
    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
    2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
    '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

  30. #90
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    Well done and thanks for the share. So much of this stuff takes some ingenuity. It's not cut and dry. Also seeing someone's idea spawns more ideas...

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