Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast
Results 151 to 180 of 185

Thread: ML Boatworks RSX380 Outrigger! My first FE wood kit build...

  1. #151

    Default

    [EDITED] As per Raydee's tip in post #71, this short piece of 1/4" tubing stays in the boat.

    I'll pre-bend 7/32" tubing to 12 degrees. It will slide into the 1/4" tubing. I will be running a 3/16" flex cable without a teflon liner. This tip was from Greg Schweers(7/32"tubing, NOT 1/4"!).

    Greg also sent me pictures of the 1/4" tubing loctited in the strut shown in the sketch below in post #154.

    So, I can change out a damaged stuffing tube without cutting everything out of the boat.

    Great stuff guys!


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-08-2018 at 11:52 PM.

  2. #152

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sammyha View Post
    Thanks Stillwet... It got to be a bit too much building the motor mount, but I like be able to oil my motors. I'm pretty happy with it in the end.

    I'm not sure what you mean about using CA on the CF edges so it doesn't fray. Before applying it, or after? That's what the tape was doing before applying the CF. If you mean afterwards, it's all epoxied in now.

    Asking to learn...



    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    i'm sorry i thought maybe the picture that i quoted you would have seen what i tried to convey.
    The Carbon fiber edges of your motor and stuffing tube mount should be super glued, when i build any raw edge CF Plate(s) you put just enough super glue (CA) at the highest point (not too much just enough that it slowly flows downward, the glue should flow with out going over the sides (somehow it just grips that raw edge and follows its path) but too much and it will flow over.
    i've built enough on road cars and buggies that it became simpler each time, this is probably the only time i Never use CA accelerator on my super glued pieces, since the accelerator makes it rough looking (crystallizes it instantaneously) thus leaving the edges looking undesirable.
    and yes your welcome, your build is wanting me to build an OR, but i'll have to wait till after the holidays, i've been re-roofing my addition and building my dad's awning and finishing a boat build here on OSE and setting up to do my Tamiya 1/14 Semi-Truck Grand Hauler. you seem to be building at a steady pace and it looks professional
    Remember do not get any on you

  3. #153

    Default

    Here's a sketch detailing the stuffing tube sizes with a Speedmaster strut.

    I stated in the beginning, this build thread will be from a boating newcomer's perspective.

    I struggled a bit with this, so I'm documenting this "strut system" if you will...



    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-09-2018 at 04:54 PM.

  4. #154

    Default

    This caused some of my confusion, the tubing sizes without teflon liner listed on OSE's website.

    They list 1/4" brass tubing for a .187 flex shaft without teflon liner. This tubing would fit in the Speedmaster strut.

    Greg told me that's too loose for the flex shaft. He's right, the .187 flex shaft fits beautifully in the 7/32" brass tubing.

    So this system is the solution. It doesn't seem as complicated in hindsight, so hopefully this will help others...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-08-2018 at 04:27 PM.

  5. #155

    Default

    With all that said, the win here is this stuffing tube system those guys shared with me...

    If you're doing this for your first time, study this a bit. There's some real advantages to it.

    1) I fussed a bit with the moter angle for a reason.

    2) I got good alignment of motor shaft, stuffing tube mount, the short piece of 1/4" tubing that stays in the boat, and the hole thru the hull.

    3) Then, after mounting the strut, I can simply pre-bend the 7/32" tubing to 12 degrees and trim the lengths of each end to the motor and the strut!

    4) And, Greg said a little silicone will hold it in there. It's completely captured...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-08-2018 at 04:30 PM.

  6. #156

    Default

    This is really working out well. To be honest, this part of the build has been a bit of a concern for me.

    Here I'm working the bend and eyeballing the strut in position. That's a one inch long piece of 1/4" tubing, only pushed a 1/2" into the strut.

    I want the stuffing tube relaxed in the strut and the bend made so it passes straight thru...


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-07-2018 at 12:59 PM.

  7. #157

    Default

    This shot shows how centered the stuffing tube is in the strut bore.

    I massaged the bend by hand. The flex shaft spins freely in the tube.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  8. #158

    Default

    No kidding, this is how close the angle came out. I'm checking this after bending it.

    For sure setting it up this way, I could bend a tube to 12 degrees and that would work.

    But, by bending it and checking it in the boat, I only have to cut off the end going into the strut, since I kept lining the stuffing tube up flush to the end of the 1/4" tubing inside the boat...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-08-2018 at 11:56 PM.

  9. #159

    Default

    Taking my time making a neat hole makes for a nice epoxy job...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  10. #160

    Default

    It feels good to have this part of the build done. The heart of the rigger, the power, coming out of the hull...

    Time for some fun stuff, bolting hardware on the transom!

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  11. #161

    Default

    Maybe this is too much redundancy but I'll risk it for the value of these pictures...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  12. #162

    Default

    The business end...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  13. #163

    Default

    Here's my flex shaft length with my motor location...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  14. #164

    Default

    Soldering the flex shaft after cutting to length.

    The first method I practiced on the scrap piece on the right. Dipping in flux, heating to a dull red glow, wire brushing clean, repeat. I did that at least ten times before it would take solder.

    It took solder well, but I didn't like heating it that many times.

    So I used the crucible method on my flex shaft. This turned out fine, but I think the solder on the scrap piece took better. There's a video on YouTube, just search "solder rc boat flex cable" for how to do this.

    Any thoughts on a flex cable taking heat?


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-09-2018 at 07:06 AM.

  15. #165

    Default

    This all comes back off. I shortened the Speedmaster rudder. Fitting is complete on the transom hardware...


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-09-2018 at 07:08 AM.

  16. #166

    Default

    This comes back out too, I have to epoxy the inside of the tub and sand the outside before epoxy.

    I have a thrust bearing between the coupler and the motor plate, a prop saver and the 7/32" stuffing tube can be seen inside the 1/4" tubing that's epoxied in the boat.

    The drive train is complete...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-10-2018 at 01:39 PM.

  17. #167

    Default

    Doing a bit more with the running hardware.

    I fabricated a carbon fiber servo tray from a plate I bought from OSE.

    I found it cuts clean holding it over the edge of the counter and drawing a new fine tooth hacksaw(24 tpi) by the end opposite the handle. Just make smooth, slow, full length strokes.

    I'll roll some pictures...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-10-2018 at 12:25 AM.

  18. #168

    Default

    Centering the servo for hole lay out...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  19. #169

    Default

    I had some 1/16" thick stainless, cut four strips. Servo is bolted on, the hexes on the locknuts are lined up straight...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  20. #170

    Default

    Epoxying the stainless steel strips so they are butted tight to the locknuts hexes...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-10-2018 at 12:29 AM.

  21. #171

    Default

    Epoxying the side stand off pieces on.

    I figure the locknuts are captured in the epoxy, with what basically amounts to a wrench on them so they can't turn...



    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  22. #172

    Default

    Here's the servo tray dry fitted in the boat...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  23. #173

    Default

    very neat build but remember to try and keep the weight down. the rear compartment looks weighty.

  24. #174

    Default

    Thanks for the comments and advice.

    Here's the weight of my servo tray.

    Second picture is the weight of the two GPS units I put in the same place(all the way back) in my Pro Boat UL-19.

    Never gave it a thought. I suppose I tested and trimmed the UL-19 with all that weight in there. Hmmn...

    Btw, for us Americans who don't know grams, the conversation is 1.09 ounces(servo tray) and 4.05 ounces(GPS units).

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-11-2018 at 10:15 AM.

  25. #175

    Default

    Finishing up the running hardware, making a linkage rod and water seal.

    The first picture shows the offset linkage rod needed in my setup.

    The second picture shows the height of the transom hole.

    With my servo tray height(5/16"), a straight linkage rod lines up with the center of the servo output shaft.

    Here's a sketch of how I made the linkage, by modifying a heli method for making stiff linkage rods and keeping them light...


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; Yesterday at 06:33 PM.

  26. #176

    Default

    A shot of the linkage and the thru hull nipple I made. For the nipple, I spun a short piece of aluminum tubing in a drill and filed the angles.



    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-11-2018 at 10:25 AM.

  27. #177

    Default

    I had ordered large radio box grommets for the length.

    But the diameter was too big to fit thru the rudder bracket.

    I only used the rubber boot.

    The struggle is real...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; Yesterday at 07:49 AM.

  28. #178

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rol243 View Post
    very neat build but remember to try and keep the weight down. the rear compartment looks weighty.
    I am trying to keep it light in the rear. I have a servo mount(1.05 oz.), a servo, and a layer of carbon fiber with two coats of epoxy back there.

    If I may ask, what are you seeing to say the rear compartment looks weighty?

    Here's an OSE mount I'm using for the Swordfish X 200 amp ESC. It's where I got the idea for making my servo mount.

    This is weighs 62.5 grams/ 2.2 ounces.


    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; Yesterday at 01:16 PM.

  29. #179

    Default

    So...

    I'm a detail guy and I enjoy having technical discussions. I prefer substance versus shallow. Shallow is too vanilla for me.

    I make no apologies for this. I also know there are others that think the same way.

    Here's my center of gravity setup. It actually works well balancing the boat on this 1/4" wide spruce strip. It's stable. But sensitive enough...

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; Yesterday at 07:50 AM.

  30. #180

    Default

    I have all the major components in there.

    But, that's with a pair of 3s lipos. I'll be running a pair of 4s, I don't have them to try this with yet.

    It balances level at 1.7" high off the counter. The balance point is very close to the back edge of the turn fin.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by sammyha; 11-11-2018 at 08:13 PM.

Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •