ML Boatworks RSX380 Outrigger! My first FE wood kit build...

[sammyha]

Then I removed my servo tray.

It weighs 1.05 ounces and the CG moved about half the thickness of the spruce strip. An eighth of an inch...

Interesting? It sure is too me...



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[sammyha]

The question is, what does this mean, real world?

Other words, what difference in handling would moving the CG an 1/8" make? Would you even notice the difference? I don't know the answer to that...

I can figure this much tho. From the CG point to the center of the back bay measures 17", and it's 15" to the tips of the sponsons.

That a 1.13/1 ratio.

For an ounce heavy in the back you would need 1.13 ounces in the front.

So weight in the back is something to avoid.

It's a bigger deal with airplanes, more like a 3/1 ratio.

This should balance nicely...

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[rol243]

I doubt very much you will notice any difference by moving the c.o.g. back or forward even by 1 inch each way.

[Peter A]

The position of your turn fin in relation to the CG is more important.

[sammyha]

I share this because I think it worked out quite well. Maybe someone else building a rigger can use this.

You have to buy two, to get eight pads(or cut more pads from the scrap). They are $10.99 each, I got the carbon fiber ones... https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...prod=ose-80525

The pictures tell the story...

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[sammyha]

I got my battery straps figured out...

https://youtu.be/pb5P7KMyRgg

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[rol243]

well done , your doing a great build .

[sammyha]

well done , your doing a great build .

Thank you...

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[sammyha]

Mounting the Spearfish 200A ESC is another challenge with this build. It's huge! After studying this for quite awhile, I figured this was my only solution.

Although I removed the top cross section of the middle former, the braces under the ESC mount more than replaces it for strength.

The end result worked out to my satisfaction...



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[sammyha]

Still have to add velcro under the ESC.

In the second picture, the top of the former is now removed...



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[sammyha]

Here's an overall look with batteries in place.

Everything fits under the cowling...

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[sammyha]

I love the way this kit goes together...

Sheeting the rear sponson shoes with 1/32" birch plywood. I made many more small epoxy mixes, carefully spread with a screwdriver on all the formers and basswood strips.

Since tacking the main tub and sponsons together with CA, I've used epoxy throughout this build.

More time consuming but worth the strength...

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[sammyha]

Bottom ride pads forming nicely in one continuous piece up the leading angle...

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[sammyha]

The top and bottom sheeting overlaps the side sheeting.



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[sammyha]

Stripped the hardware and electronics, sanding the tub before sealing with epoxy...

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[sammyha]

Shaping the nose block and 1/4 round. Sanding edges and bedding the rear sponson shoes...

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[bhorowitz]

Sammy,
You can build a boat for me anytime. Beautiful job, and great job with the build log.
Bob

[sammyha]

Sammy,
You can build a boat for me anytime. Beautiful job, and great job with the build log.
Bob

Thanks for the positive feedback Bob! It's slow going tho, but that's how I like to build. I enjoy the journey and eventually I'll get there...

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[sammyha]

The inside of the tub is epoxied. The "bend the acid brush" tip was in use for all the hard to reach corners...

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[sammyha]

Here's why I save scrap. Perfect use for titanium, it won't rust and I'll never strip these threads.

On the down side, I wrecked a brand new Dewalt hacksaw blade.

The chamfers and radius are clearance for the epoxy joints inside the sponson. I nested the titanium block in hardwood...



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[sammyha]

The hardwood gives the epoxy better bite than the titanium alone and spreads the load forces...

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[rol243]

coming along very nicely.

[sammyha]

I'm also epoxy forming the carbon fiber in the sponsons. Just the two ride pad bays.

I feel that this is similar to vacuum forming. Not exactly the same, I know. But it forces the epoxy thru the CF and gets a better bond to the wood.

I'm doing it slightly different than from how I did the tub. I'm not trimming the CF inside the sponsons. I can get away with doing it this way working with smaller pieces. Plus it will be covered up. This is only for strength. The ride pads probably take more pounding than anywhere else on a rigger.

I'll roll some pictures...

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[sammyha]

I placed the CF in there and pressed it down with the teflon to tuck in the corners.

Then I removed the teflon, poured in some slightly thinned epoxy, just enough so it squeezed out around the top when I pressed in the teflon again.



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[sammyha]

After weighting it down(on the screws) and curing, I removed the teflon by pulling on the screws...


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[rol243]

excellent work, keep it going.

[sammyha]

It's a little hard to take pictures of, but here's some shots of the final result...

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[sammyha]

excellent work, keep it going.

I really appreciate that. Thanks...

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[sammyha]

I read in another thread about guys using Klass Kote epoxy paint. I found it on Ebay.

Here's the link to Part A, the colored part... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F152029025775

This seller also has the Part B catalyst and the reducer for thinning.

I placed my order by adding to basket, he combines shipping. Great seller, I contacted him, fast response...

Prior to this, the only other two part epoxy paint I could find was Coloredepoxies on Amazon for $78.16 per color. This is a 2/1 mix, you have to buy 3 quarts minimum.

Here's my total for white, orange, catalyst and the reducer...

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[sammyha]

I have a daytime job too, and I've been pounding the OT.

This part of the build is finished tho...

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