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Thread: Blazer Marine Sport 20 Electric Build

  1. #61
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    Ah I see...thanks for the pic. So it actually sticks out farther than the stock nose.

  2. #62
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    Terry
    Did you check the curvature of the WIP cowl on the Pearl??

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  3. #63
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    I think this is what yer asking Larry. It could be butchered to work.

    20181216_164030.jpg
    Noisy person

  4. #64
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    Terry
    The reason that I asked is;
    I have a mould for a cowl, that was originally for a WIP, I have not made one yet, waiting for some vaccum bagging equipment, and I need a pump also,
    From what I have measured so far, it should be very close to fit the Pearl.


    Larry
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    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  5. #65
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    haha Not sure Larry. I've never built a Whip without modifying the crap out of it. It only just now occurred to me. All my Whips are a freak show. That's kinda true of my Pearl too. Mine are all slightly modified. Those I don't fiddle with nearly as much. They're pretty killer as is. I'll be fabricating another canopy for the new boat but I doubt it will be of any use to the Whip guys either.
    Noisy person

  6. #66
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    Hey Larry, I wouldn't get too crazy worrying about bagging them. The weight isn't that big of a deal in 2018. Unless you're building a time trial boat or something very specific.
    Noisy person

  7. #67
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    Bagging makes them stronger with less material but weight is not much a problem.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  8. #68
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    I noticed a lot of people put foam into the empty parts of the boat for added flotation. I brought some dense packing foam home from work that was used to pack a server. I wonder if that would be good to use. I'm starting to think not because it is kind of heavy for foam.

  9. #69
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    Yes you should add extra floatation...where possible....not sure on the packing foam.. ...pool noodles seem to be the norm...

  10. #70
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    Pool noodles...hadn't thought of that...cool. Maybe even a cut up kick board.

  11. #71
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    Make SURE any foam you use does not absorb water....HAPPY HOLIDAYS..!!

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    Terry
    The reason that I asked is;
    I have a mould for a cowl, that was originally for a WIP, I have not made one yet, waiting for some vaccum bagging equipment, and I need a pump also,
    From what I have measured so far, it should be very close to fit the Pearl.


    Larry
    OK - made my first pull from this new mould.
    It turned out very good.
    This mould was made to fit the 20/40 Wiplash
    I cut the cowl to fit in the Black Pearl - It fits perfectly (curvature on the front fits), There is enough room on the surface's of the cowl, to move the bubble forward 2" or to the rear 1 1/4" from where it is in the pictures.

    I will start making some of these next week, MP me if interested.

    Larry
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    Last edited by TRUCKPULL; 12-31-2018 at 04:27 PM.
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    Terry
    The reason that I asked is;
    I have a mould for a cowl, that was originally for a WIP, I have not made one yet, waiting for some vaccum bagging equipment, and I need a pump also,
    From what I have measured so far, it should be very close to fit the Pearl.


    Larry
    Bagging holds the parts in place while the resin sets up. Find a old refrigerator that the motor runs but you do not want the refrigerator . Pull the motor and pump and you will be in business.
    Randy
    For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware
    BBY Racing

  14. #74
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    Ok so now that my airplane projects are back on track I decided to start working on my Whip again and low and behold...the front has unfastened itself again. At this point I think I am going to cut off the curved nose section and mold something out of fiberglass. I believe most of my problems have been due to my lack of knowledge about laser cut wood and needing to sand the edges so the parts will adhere. Fortunately everything else appears to be holding just fine and now that I know the issue when I do the bottom of the sponsons I can be sure to sand them so the bent pieces adhere properly to the frame.

  15. #75
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    I wish I could have chimed in before you had glued it up, sorry. When I build Whips, I prebend the wood by wetting it out good and then using a heat gun to heat them up to bend them. I put them on a form of some kind with tape.

    It's not impossible to remove parts if CA is used by soaking in Acetone, ask me how I know? I almost screwed up an ML kit but I took a lot of time with stinky solvent and then sanding a lot after it dried to rebuild.

    Whatever you decide, it's what you're comfortable with.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  16. #76
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    I used epoxy to build this boat. I was thinking...why are we trying to bend such thick wood instead of layering up thinner pieces that bend easier? I'm thinking for the bent sections of the sponsons I may end up doing that instead. It's already too late for the front cockpit area but maybe not for the sponsons.

  17. #77
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    O.k. I understand. PLease do with the sponsons. The reason I say to wet the wood ( I use hot water) is because Whips are usually very dry unless it was just cut and the dry wood might snap without some water before heat.

    There is this one little part on the bottom of the sponsons that I do that is imo, important to do.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  18. #78
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    Hello, Any advantage to have a offset engine well? If so what

  19. #79
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    Offset engine/motor and drive line give a oval racing boat several advantages. First it to counter act the effect of torque on the hull by having more weight on one side. Effect on prop walk is changes by offset drive assembly. Cg is changed and the boat is able to travel faster in the corner.
    Randy
    For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware
    BBY Racing

  20. #80
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    Well it's been awhile since I worked on the boat...I had the nose come apart on me again and I got a bit frustrated so I put it aside for awhile. I tried a different epoxy and it looks like this is holding much better so it is time for me to continue with the build and I'm looking at the next steps. Since I will be skinning the bottom of the sponsons next then I will need to purchase my turn fin assembly soon. Looking through the recommended hardware on Blazer's website I don't see a turn fin assembly listed. Which turn fin assembly should I get? Thank you.

  21. #81
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    I'm thinking maybe I'll just pick up the turn fin assembly from the UL-19 since it is the same size boat.

  22. #82
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    Got all the excess lower plywood sheet trimmed off and sanded flush. Got the ride pads and the next level up bottom piece installed. Now just to do the sections where I need to bend the wood and the bottom will be finished. Before I install the foam blocks and close up the top I'll need to install the turn fin bracket. I've been looking at this one from Mojo racing...any thoughts on that turn fin for this boat? Thanks!

  23. #83
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    I know a lot of racers that use that fin, including myself.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  24. #84
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    Awesome thanks!

  25. #85
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    So my Mojo turn fin came in...looks pretty solid so I think I'm good there. Now I'm about to tackle the part of the sponsons where I need to bend wood. I've done some reading on various web pages but I still haven't figured out yet how I'm going to go about bending the wood. From what I've read it sounds like soaking it ammonia works pretty well and is easy to do...or heating it with steam and bending it. I don't have a "shop" setup where I would have access to everything I would need to make a form to bend it on...I'm limited basically to what I can do with hand tools and a Dremel. Given my tool availability...what method would you guys suggest for bending the wood? Thanks.

  26. #86
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    If it were me, and it may be soon, I would get a bag of spring clamps and contrive a set up where by clamping the water soaked piece it would achieve needed bend, then let air dry slowly...
    there are surely more elegant ways, but this may suit your nonshop setup.
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  27. #87
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    Well I went and bought a kettle yesterday so that I could try the steam wood bending technique...I bought an electric one because I figured it would be nice to be able to use it on my work table to bend the wood. However almost no steam comes out and it auto shuts off when the water starts boiling. D'oh!

  28. #88
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    I've built a lot of wooden boats both scale & Fast electrics.
    I've never found it necessary to soak ply to bend it. I have used a heat gun on some ply to help the process. But mostly I just bend it around a 4" pole in my workshop by moving it from side to side while adding pressure.
    I will say here though that most of the Hydros that I have built, have been ML Boatworks kits & the ply used had also been bought from them. Blazer marine may use a different grade of aircraft ply, that doesn't bend in the same way.

    Bending a ride pad.
    thumb-016.jpg


    Experimenting with a piece of scrap to see how far I could bend it.
    thumb-002.jpg


    The finished bend
    thumb-003.jpg

  29. #89
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    Well the plywood under the sponsons is a lot thinner than the nose section and bends fairly easily...so I'm considering just gluing them and bending them on the boat...we'll see what I feel up to doing this weekend if I can find time to work on it.

  30. #90
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    20190707_143642.jpg

    Thanks everyone for the suggestions on bending wood. I ended up using the steam technique to pre-bend the sides of the sponsons and finally got some progress on the boat. Even with the wood pre-bent it still was a pain in the butt to get positioned and clamped properly. Sorry this build is going so slow but it's my first wood boat and I'm doing a lot of other projects at the same time...so I'm taking my time getting it done.

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