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Thread: Blazer Marine Sport 20 Electric Build

  1. #91
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    Ok so I finished the bottom pieces of the boat last night and for the most part it came out pretty good. But as I expected where the side piece and the bottom front piece meet up isn't so good and I'm going to need to fill in some area. What should I use to fill it in? I have some automotive Bondo but I heard that isn't good to use for marine applications...so should I use a wood putty/filler or marine Bondo? Thanks!

  2. #92
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  3. #93
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    Marine RX - Epoxy Repair

    You can get it at West Marine
    https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...43?recordNum=1


    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  4. #94
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    Thanks guys!

  5. #95
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    Well good news guys...I looked at the bottom again after some more sanding and the gap looked like it was fixable. So I used an Xacto knife, cut away the epoxy, re-glued and re-clamped the piece in that one spot and now it is nicely closed up. I'll still need to do some filling to correct the curvature near the top but all in all it's looking pretty good. Now I just need to start epoxy coating the inside to seal it up.

  6. #96
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    Made some more progress on my Whip 20. I sealed the inside of the sponsons with epoxy. I used a white epoxy dye mixed in with the Zap finishing resin not for aesthetics but to make it easier to see where I didn't coat it well enough. Up next...mounting the turn fin. I'm really happy with the turn fin I picked up but I'm not thrilled about the mounting bracket...so I'm debating if I want to round it out a little bit so it doesn't look so chunky.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #97
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    Is it possible to thin epoxy and spray it with a spray gun? That sure would make sealing the rest of the boat easier.

  8. #98
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    yes you can spray thinned epoxy but really the brush on method is better as you are working the epoxy into the timber grains etc and not just letting the spray rest on top and not penetrate properly.

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by rol243 View Post
    yes you can spray thinned epoxy but really the brush on method is better as you are working the epoxy into the timber grains etc and not just letting the spray rest on top and not penetrate properly.
    Thanks. I"m a bit concerned with the finish...inside the sponsons isn't going to matter how ugly it looks so long as it does the job. But inside the main compartment I'd like to make it look nicer.

  10. #100
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    when you use a slower finish epoxy like the zapp finishing resin , when you apply this by brush and its not thinned out like your first 1 or 2 coats of sealer were the finishing resin will self level to form a nice smooth finish providing you have lightly sanded the areas so all is smooth. for all exterior finish areas i would use a spray not brush.

  11. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by rol243 View Post
    when you use a slower finish epoxy like the zapp finishing resin , when you apply this by brush and its not thinned out like your first 1 or 2 coats of sealer were the finishing resin will self level to form a nice smooth finish providing you have lightly sanded the areas so all is smooth. for all exterior finish areas i would use a spray not brush.
    I didn't thin out my first few coats. I just brushed it on...was I supposed to? I'm thinking on switching to West Marine epoxy...probably for the outside...maybe for the rest of the inside. The Zap finishing resin isn't clear so when I add dye to it the color changes.

  12. #102
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    it is better for the first cot to be very thin so it can soak into the timber grain well, the next coat can be a little thicker . use a 2 pack polyurethane clear for your final coats as its crystal clear and very good.

  13. #103
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    Great I'll do that on the rest of the boat...what do I thin it with?

  14. #104
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    normally if your using a 2 pack part you need the matching thinners to suit but a general purpose thinner will work ok.

  15. #105
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    Well I'm finally back from my mainland trip to race my RC cars so I can make some more progress on my Whip20 which I started a little over a year ago. Today I contacted SpeedMaster to get the right rudder and strut ordered. I already purchased a turn fin earlier in the year so with the additional hardware I am going to be able to start applying the top of the boat. So keep an eye out for updates! I hope to have some build updates soon!

  16. #106
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    sounds good, just hope we don,t have to waite another year for stage 2. lol

  17. #107
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    Lol

  18. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    I've built a lot of wooden boats both scale & Fast electrics.
    I've never found it necessary to soak ply to bend it. I have used a heat gun on some ply to help the process. But mostly I just bend it around a 4" pole in my workshop by moving it from side to side while adding pressure.
    I will say here though that most of the Hydros that I have built, have been ML Boatworks kits & the ply used had also been bought from them. Blazer marine may use a different grade of aircraft ply, that doesn't bend in the same way.

    Bending a ride pad.
    Attachment 164817


    Experimenting with a piece of scrap to see how far I could bend it.
    Attachment 164818


    The finished bend
    Attachment 164819
    I just saw this. Dang! That is the way to go! Simple and easy.

  19. #109
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    I have a very dry apartment and when I let ML kit sit for a year (too long) it dried out and warped on me. I used water or steam just because it worked before.
    I had a really old Osbourne Shovel nose kit that was horrid. The ply was either crap ot just dried out or both because I tried even with steam pieces snapped and had to remake them.

    Whatever works and simple is always good. I hope you don't ever snap pieces if they dry out.

    I found Whiplash kits are much dryer from the get go but the wood is always very strong.

    If I got another ML kit and I've built two, I'd build it right away. Most people do build them right away, me so slooooow....
    Nortavlag Bulc

  20. #110
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    Ok...time to start on the next part of the build! I finally went to West Marine and got some good marine epoxy to finish the boat with. But before I start sealing the main compartments I want to make sure all of my components are installed or at least pre-drilled. I have a really nice center line penciled in on the bottom of the boat and when I coat it with dyed epoxy like I did with the sponsons, I won't be able to see the line anymore. So I need to drill the holes necessary for the motor mount and for the stuffing tube before I seal the inside. So what I need from you friendly folks are recommendations for motor mounts. To start out with I won't be going too crazy. I plan to use a UL-1 or UL-19 motor around 2000Kv with a 4s battery. Do water cooled motor mounts make enough of a difference to make them worth while?

    Thank you

  21. #111
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    Also for the stuffing tube...is there any that come pre-bent?

  22. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
    Also for the stuffing tube...is there any that come pre-bent?
    My preference is to build the boat completely. ALL hardware installed, stuffing tube glued in, cooling tubes routed, and cowling trimmed and mounted. Then disassemble completely. Now your ready to seal. If you seal before all of these steps you will be creating a bunch of holes in your with natural wood exposed.

    Just my $0.02

    Later,
    Mike

  23. #113
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    Ok the motor mount is on it's way from OSE...Now to get things going so I can get all the hardware installed to finish epoxy sealing the inside...I need to know where to place the motor, or how to determine where to place the motor. Since the boat is designed to be nitro it doesn't come with instructions for electric. Once I know where to mount the motor, how do I determine where to bend the stuffing tube? Thanks!

  24. #114
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    The stuffing tube should be straight going from motor out of the hull. Once out of the hull is where you start to bend it and no, there are no pre-bent stuffing tubes for it.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  25. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    The stuffing tube should be straight going from motor out of the hull. Once out of the hull is where you start to bend it and no, there are no pre-bent stuffing tubes for it.
    I figured that much...but where to place the motor? I'm guessing there is supposed to be a balance point in order for the boat to run properly. Really wish there were pre-bent tubes

  26. #116
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    Balance point should be about 3/4" to 1-1/4" behind the trailing edge of the sponson.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  27. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    Balance point should be about 3/4" to 1-1/4" behind the trailing edge of the sponson.

    Larry
    Given most of the weight of the boat is in the area from the trailing edge of the sponson forward...I'm a bit apprehensive about getting it to balance properly. I would imagine it is probably better to err toward the 3/4" to help keep the front end down?

  28. #118
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    That is a good place to start.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  29. #119
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    One thing I've learned is that the balance point and 'keeping the front end down' are two very different things. First step is to get it balanced and riding properly, then additional weight should be added to the CG if she is blowing off. Just my experience.

    BTW, I agree with Larry. My Whip is balanced at about 1" from the sponson backs.

  30. #120
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    So I've been paused on my build for quite some time due to the turn fin. I just can't seem to find a turn fin and bracket combination that I'm happy with. But through all this a question comes to mind...how far behind the sponson should the fin mount? I bought a UL-19 fin and bracket which mounts it right behind the sponson...the Mojo one I bought moves it back about half an inch. The UL-19 bracket and fin are nicely done but look quite small...the Mojo fin is nicely done but the bracket is probably functional but isn't of the same quality as the fin and there's no slots where it mounts to the boat for tilt adjustment.. The Mojo fin for the UL-19 is angled for the UL-19 so it won't work with my Whiplash. Randy Rap makes a really nice looking titanium fin but it only uses 1 mounting hole, is that really enough to hold the fin in place and keep it from moving? If so I'll probably just go with that and the UL-19 bracket...that way I have a straight fin option and a curved fin option. Thoughts?

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