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Thread: Blazer Marine Sport 20 Electric Build

  1. #31

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    I used a piece of marble counter top and my 2 Hudy setup boards to make sure I was always building on flat surfaces. I started out using right angle clamps to make sure everything was aligned properly.

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  2. #32

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    I drew a centerline down my 1/8th setup board, marked the centerline on all the frames, and taped it down to my setup board to make sure everything is straight.

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  3. #33

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    Trying to get the curved pieces to hold and gluing on the bottom sheet:
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  4. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
    I saw that previously and thought about doing that too. But now that the UL-1 has been discontinued it is going to get harder to get replacement parts for it. I assume you cut off the center nose parts and reshaped the form so it was uniform across the front. I was concerned that might move the motor too far back.

    My current thinking is that I am going to build my own cowl. The stock one isn't fitting properly and I don't want to do too many modifications from original until I get more experienced at this.
    Yeah, you are probably right. They might become scarce. ...but maybe that means the price will go down! :) They usually want $35 for that nose piece. Anyways, regarding the mod, I wouldn't worry about the motor position too much. It's not too late!! ha ha. It's a proven set-up. Been running it this way for at least 3 years now. The boat has been in the top 2 in our club the last few years and then took a first and second during the nats in June in the first two heats! Then, driver error!

  5. #35

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    Well I'm getting ready for the IIC now so I'm going to have to set the boat aside and work on my cars for a bit.

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    What electric class(s) does this boat run in? Where do I find the rules? I'm planning on using the Aquacraft 2030kv motor with 4 cells...maybe 5...what prop should I be running?

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