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Thread: Blazer Marine Sport 20 Electric Build

  1. #31

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    I used a piece of marble counter top and my 2 Hudy setup boards to make sure I was always building on flat surfaces. I started out using right angle clamps to make sure everything was aligned properly.

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  2. #32

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    I drew a centerline down my 1/8th setup board, marked the centerline on all the frames, and taped it down to my setup board to make sure everything is straight.

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  3. #33

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    Trying to get the curved pieces to hold and gluing on the bottom sheet:
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
    I saw that previously and thought about doing that too. But now that the UL-1 has been discontinued it is going to get harder to get replacement parts for it. I assume you cut off the center nose parts and reshaped the form so it was uniform across the front. I was concerned that might move the motor too far back.

    My current thinking is that I am going to build my own cowl. The stock one isn't fitting properly and I don't want to do too many modifications from original until I get more experienced at this.
    Yeah, you are probably right. They might become scarce. ...but maybe that means the price will go down! :) They usually want $35 for that nose piece. Anyways, regarding the mod, I wouldn't worry about the motor position too much. It's not too late!! ha ha. It's a proven set-up. Been running it this way for at least 3 years now. The boat has been in the top 2 in our club the last few years and then took a first and second during the nats in June in the first two heats! Then, driver error!

  5. #35

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    Well I'm getting ready for the IIC now so I'm going to have to set the boat aside and work on my cars for a bit.

  6. #36

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    What electric class(s) does this boat run in? Where do I find the rules? I'm planning on using the Aquacraft 2030kv motor with 4 cells...maybe 5...what prop should I be running?

  7. #37

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    Boat runs good in the spec sport class with the motor you mentioned. 4S. Spec Sport Hydro or Limited Sport Hydro (LSH).

  8. #38

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    Back from vacation, finished my combat plane, so now I'm back to working on the Whip. Started epoxy sealing the underside of the sponsons since I figured it would be pretty impossible to do once the bottom pieces were on. When browsing at the local hardware store I found some pigments that can be mixed in with epoxy to give it color so I picked up some white. I figure that it will help me see better if I have a good enough coating of epoxy to seal it. If any wood shows through I know the epoxy didn't seal that area. Plus I thought it would look interesting.


  9. #39

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    Nice idea!
    Nortavlag Bulc

  10. #40

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    I might build one I have for Limited power
    Nortavlag Bulc

  11. #41

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    Cool. Let us know how the pigment works out!

  12. #42

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    I think it worked out ok...though I may suggest using a different pigment if someone else wants to try it. The hardener in Zap finishing epoxy is brown in color so the white comes out a bit muddy looking. But I can definitely see where the boat didn't get enough of an epoxy coat on the first layer. Other than the color being a bit off I'm pretty happy with it. I need to pick up some new brushes on my way home tonight to finish up. I'm finding I don't like the foam type brushes...they are difficult to work with in tight areas.

  13. #43

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    I am a little late getting to your thread. But hear is my little in put to building the whip.
    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ing-a-Whiplash
    Randy
    For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware
    BBY Racing

  14. #44

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    Thanks Randy. Yours is one of the threads I've been following. I like the cowl you used in the pictures initially before you went to the Blue Blaster. How well did that cowl fit the curvature of the Whip? Where do I find that cowl?

    VlfCkc.jpg

    By the way...never did get to see pics of it finished :)

  15. #45

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    I have a mould for a cowl that fits the WIP 20/40
    I am looking into vaccum moulding with fiberglass or carbon fiber.
    Let me know if interested.
    The one in this picture has been cut down, the flat surface on the cowl is much larger, so it can be trimmed to fit.

    Larry
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  16. #46

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    That first cowl was a little wide and used the Blue Blaster becuse it is narrower. they are both cowls I make. I did a lay up a few days ago I can do little stuff with my arm in the condition it is while I am waiting for surgery.

    Randy
    For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware
    BBY Racing

  17. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    I have a mould for a cowl that fits the WIP 20/40
    I am looking into vaccum moulding with fiberglass or carbon fiber.
    Let me know if interested.
    The one in this picture has been cut down, the flat surface on the cowl is much larger, so it can be trimmed to fit.

    Larry
    Thanks Larry, I'm looking for something closer to a more modern scale hydro look. I wanted to do something like this one from Blazer Marine's website but didn't want to tackle completely redesigning the nose of the boat on my first build. So I'm looking for something that gets me closer to this:

    large_100_100_0620.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by RandyatBBY View Post
    That first cowl was a little wide and used the Blue Blaster becuse it is narrower. they are both cowls I make. I did a lay up a few days ago I can do little stuff with my arm in the condition it is while I am waiting for surgery.
    Is it wider than the one that Blazer makes? Mine is a bit warped and I'm not a big fan of the design. The rest of the boat I like...just not the cowl so much. If it isn't "too" wide and you have some already made up I'd be interested in getting one. If not don't worry about it...take your time and get better first. Best wishes that everything goes well with the surgery!

  18. #48

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    Well I finished epoxy coating the underside of the wood in the sponsons so now it's time to start tackling skinning the sponsons.

  19. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
    Thanks Larry, I'm looking for something closer to a more modern scale hydro look. I wanted to do something like this one from Blazer Marine's website but didn't want to tackle completely redesigning the nose of the boat on my first build. So I'm looking for something that gets me closer to this:

    large_100_100_0620.jpg



    Is it wider than the one that Blazer makes? Mine is a bit warped and I'm not a big fan of the design. The rest of the boat I like...just not the cowl so much. If it isn't "too" wide and you have some already made up I'd be interested in getting one. If not don't worry about it...take your time and get better first. Best wishes that everything goes well with the surgery!
    I think they are similar but mine is 3/4 inch narrower and much lower. I can make one out of fiber glass. I do have a mold not much work to do it.You will have to add a little wood to the backdeck to make work.
    Randy
    For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware
    BBY Racing

  20. #50

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    the cowl you posted above is a lot like my SShydro. It would take a bit of work to fit to a wood former to match the whip deck.
    Randy
    For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware
    BBY Racing

  21. #51

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    Yeah I like the look of that. Looks like the guy who did it didn't use the nose portion of the whip and molded a lower nose out of fiberglass. That's not something I'm quite ready to do yet. Ideally I want to take what I'm learning building this boat and maybe a few others in the future and use that to design my own to be 3d printed.

  22. #52

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    Terry Davis made that Tide Whiplash in your picture.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  23. #53

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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    Terry Davis made that Tide Whiplash in your picture.
    Any idea how to get a hold of him? Love the way he build that boat.

  24. #54

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    There's no mold for that canopy. It was a one off. That boat has about 10000 laps on it now. The canopy is cracked in about 7 places. Still one of the fastest boats I ever built.

    Hind sight, that canopy was too big for the boat. Looked cool at speed though.
    glue sniffer

  25. #55

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    ML Boatworks might have something that would look nice on there too. Maybe from the GP33.

    I have a mold for a canopy to fit a Pearl but the deck curve wont fit a Whip. If I think of it later I'll drop it on the Whip and see if it would fit.
    glue sniffer

  26. #56

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    That sure is a beautiful boat Terry! Did you use the part of the frame that is the nose at all or did you cut it off and do the whole nose in fiberglass? I'm not sure how well the stock nose is going to hold on mine. I've already re-glued it several times and even fiberglass reinforced the inside hoping that would help it hold. So far it is holding since the last time I re-glued it but I'm not sure it will continue to hold once I trim the bottom sheet. Unfortunately I did not know about glue not adhering well to laser cut surfaces when I started building the boat. I won't make that mistake again.

  27. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by T.S.Davis View Post
    ML Boatworks might have something that would look nice on there too. Maybe from the GP33.

    I have a mold for a canopy to fit a Pearl but the deck curve wont fit a Whip. If I think of it later I'll drop it on the Whip and see if it would fit.
    Yeah I was looking at that GP400/SX400 but I wasn't sure about the scale or if it would fit the curvature.

    What did you use for the rear fins and wing on yours? Scratch built?

  28. #58

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    The Led Sled!!!!!!

  29. #59

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    I made that nose from a block of wood that was cut with notches to receive the two stringer........I think. Ill go find it. Its beat to death now.
    glue sniffer

  30. #60

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    glue sniffer

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