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Thread: Proboat Mystic 29 Salvage Rebuild

  1. #1
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    Nov 2011
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    Default Proboat Mystic 29 Salvage Rebuild

    This boat was recently given to my neighbor, who is a plane guy. He gave it to me under the condition that I let him drive it if I put it back together. Don't really know the back story, other than it was swamped/sunk in saltwater and literally put away wet. It's been sitting on the shelf for several years. Everything in it is toast, but the hull looks brand new. The rudder bracket is also bent, but I think i can straiten it out in the vise.

    The plan is a simple and reliable 4s build, probably go the hobbyking route with OSE driveline.

    36xx 2000-2200 KV motor
    90-120 amp esc
    simple 2 ch. radio and rec.
    new steering servo
    new drive cable
    Pool noodle flotation

    Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated - I've been away from the hobby for quite a few years.

    Best way to clean out the stuffing tube?

    Also missing the tupperware lid, anyone know if the Geico or others fit??

    I am going to gut it out today and try to clean up the inside.


    IMG_5903 (1).JPGIMG_5905.JPGIMG_5904.JPG

  2. #2
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    Mar 2011
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    Default

    I would test that ESC. They are waterproof. The motor will be toast. Hopefully the flex comes out of the tube. If not soak with light oil. And wait, lol. How does the wood mounting parts look?
    Shawn

  3. #3
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    Apr 2011
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    tx
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    Default

    I bet you could use some rifle cleaning brushes to clean the tube. Say maybe something designed to clean a .22 or 17 hmr barrel.
    white geico w/2200kv 3674 leopard 53.5mph 4s2p, geico w/ 1800kv outrunner 52mph on 4s2p, genesis w/2200kv castle 53.8 on 4s2p, impulse 31 w/2200kv castle, stock p1 and ul-1

  4. #4
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    Nov 2011
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    Default

    I have it all cleaned up, the wood in the center looks good, but the battery trays are shot, they pulled right out. I'll have to build some new ones. The Flex pulled right out, and was just caked with old grease, which seems to have protected it - It cleaned up well and looks good. The rudder bracket straightened up easily in the vise.

    Stadium, that's a great idea on the rifle brushes, I'll give that a shot.

    I ordered the following from hobbyking:
    90 AMP ESC, 2 ch. radio and receiver, waterproof steering servo. I'm still undecided on the motor, may go with the SSS 3674 2075KV, or the dynamite 2000KV used in the Blackjack.

    Stock prop is in good shape, but i will go with a S/B M445.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    LA
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    Default

    I tested the motor and ESC, no go... Tube is clean and good to go, flex is in good shape. The set screw on the coupler is rusted in, currently soaking in oil, but it's about to meet the torch. Sharpened and balanced the stock proboat prop.

    My first two of 3 packages arrived, now I'm just waiting on the motor. It's on a cargo plane out of Hong Kong (along with the rubber dog $hit) I went with an Ebay special, 36-70 2150 KV 4 pole. It had great reviews on amazon, but it was a few bucks cheaper on the other site. I also got a great deal on the Aquacraft cooling jacket online. Should go well with the blue motor.

    So far my budget rebuild is just over $98. Interested to see how she runs. Any suggestions on building battery trays on the cheap?

    IMG_5918.JPG

  6. #6
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    tx
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    white geico w/2200kv 3674 leopard 53.5mph 4s2p, geico w/ 1800kv outrunner 52mph on 4s2p, genesis w/2200kv castle 53.8 on 4s2p, impulse 31 w/2200kv castle, stock p1 and ul-1

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    LA
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    Default

    Should I even bother replacing missing the Tupperware lid? I'm thinking the new motor might be too long/tall anyway. I will be taping the hatch of course.

    I also decided on the TFL Racing 443 copper prop - looks pretty similar to M445 with only slightly less diameter to keep the temps down.

  8. #8
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    Apr 2011
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    tx
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    I never ran the Tupperware lid and was fine.
    white geico w/2200kv 3674 leopard 53.5mph 4s2p, geico w/ 1800kv outrunner 52mph on 4s2p, genesis w/2200kv castle 53.8 on 4s2p, impulse 31 w/2200kv castle, stock p1 and ul-1

  9. #9
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    Mar 2011
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    As I recall as soon as you went any bigger motor the lid did not fit

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    LA
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    Default Making Progress

    I'm making progress. Everything is wired up and seems to be working as it should. I put the short 4mm bullet connectors on the ESC, and the motor showed up with the long 4mm bannana type plugs - so I will have to change those out when the new ones come in. Battery straps from OSE are too short for my batts, so I will need to get some longer ones. Also waiting on some new cooling lines - this was all I had so they are a bit short.

    I seem to be having some alignment issues, it looks to be perfect but I'm still getting some vibration and noise from the flex shaft when bench testing. I have adjusted it about 100 times. Motor is perfect when not connected to shaft. Any suggestions??

    The fiberglass battery trays from OSE don't really fit well with the steps in the hull, should I just pick a spot based on where the old ones were and glue the hell out of them?

    Recap: Proboat Mystic Hull, JR elecs (generic china) 3670 2150 KV, Hobbyking 90 Amp ESC, HK servo, Hobbyking 2 CH surface radio and receiver, Aquacraft cooling jacket and collet, stock flex and prop. (4S) I'm only at about $125 into it so far - not bad I guess.

    IMG_5947.JPGIMG_5949.JPG

  11. #11
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    Flex cables normally make a lot of noise on the bench. It’s naturally going to rattle around as it goes through the bend in the tube. Once on the collet and the strut it should be fine.
    As far as tha trays you can either shim them and using just the epoxy to hold them off or, use the little tabs that come with the trays to hold them off.
    white geico w/2200kv 3674 leopard 53.5mph 4s2p, geico w/ 1800kv outrunner 52mph on 4s2p, genesis w/2200kv castle 53.8 on 4s2p, impulse 31 w/2200kv castle, stock p1 and ul-1

  12. #12
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    Jul 2016
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    IL
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    4,100

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    Will that collet slide up any further onto the motor shaft? That might be a source of vibration if its not true. As for alignment, as long as the flex cable slips into the collet with minimal deflection, and appears to still be centered in the end of the stuffing tube once its in the collet, you're good. As already mentioned, its not uncommon to get a lot of noise on the bench when nothing is in the water. An unbalanced metal prop will make some noise too.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    LA
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    Thanks guys. I will epoxy the tabs on the bottom to act as shims. I'll try to slide the collet up some, but it is pretty tight. I'll also re-balance the prop, it was close, but still needs a little work. I never really paid much attention to vibrations on the bench since this is my first go round outside of complete RTR boats, never gave them anything other than a quick pull of the throttle out of the water. Hope to have it in the water for testing and set-up next weekend. Thanks again.

  14. #14
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    Nov 2011
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    LA
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    I have the trays installed and solved my vibration problems. The AQ collet was the issue. It would not slide up the shaft, I tried to open up the hole and made things worse. Replaced with new PB collet and all is well.

    Everything is all set up and finally had a chance to test the boat yesterday. Boat ran good and temps were very good, everything was only slightly warm to the touch. The boat does have the old proboat bounce at full throttle - steady porpoise but only at full throttle. If I give it just a little rudder, it flattens out and stops bouncing, but looks like she is running wet. GOG is set at recommended point in the manual I found online. Strut is dead level with bottom of sponsons. I will make some strut adjustments and move the batteries around to try to get it dialed in. Any thoughts on this?


    Thank you guys again for your help on this little project. It's nice to see this old hull run again for about $150. I already have the itch to start a new build with a better hull. (this one has all the issues that the original Miss Geico had - cupped sponsons, slight twist, weak seam, etc.)

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