I am going to use some spare accumulated parts here on this one. Twin(of course) TP 4050 950kv oldies, Etti 120HV's. Speedmaster hardware on the back. As I said I have one of these hulls already running so I have my targets all set and will run 10s2p.
I am going with motors on the tunnel and therefore the struts centrally located and rudder between. As opposed to BlownAway which takes a very wide stance
This hull has no rails so a custom HRC mount shall be in order. This hull should be substantially lighter than BlownAway as well.
Nice pile of parts!!
Looks like a good start
Shawn
I do hope that you are at least going to paint that hatch?
A lower hatch may be in order.
How big is that hull (10S-2P)?
Larry
Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
The AC Boats R-42 is a great hull, especially for rough water. My 42” 10S version placed third among ~40 gas cats at the 2013 World's race in Houston. The hatch supplies a surprising amount of downforce, I would not change it out.
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That’s odd, mine didn't hook at all, neither in rough race water nor in tight turns. Haven't heard of this tendency from others either. All were single drives, perhaps twins exhibit hooking.
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Cool
Surprising how much that stiffened it up out front. The hull itself is plenty strong but the upper deck was able to flex some. This I discovered on BlownAway from the only blow over I had. The clear coat got spiderwebbed from the experience. OUCH!! And since I am not sure where this hulls service duty will stop(SAW?), an ounce of prevention....
Absolutely
What's your method for getting the interior hull shapes correct?
Ok cool. I gotta try that...if I can get my hands to fit that far in the hull lol.
This is for the Cheetah? For that I would just do the deck to tunnel stringers:
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...oof&highlight=
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...at)&highlight=
Last edited by srislash; 10-06-2018 at 07:45 AM.
No...I'm actually hating the Cheetah at the moment. I have buyer's remorse like you can't imagine. My concern is with the Central RC Marine 60" MTI I just bought. I ordered it with a full carbon interior...even the deck is done. I just want it to survive high speed crashes. My goal is to have it run high 80's.
Thank you for sharing those links for info!
Shawn, what are you going to start with for strut depth?
I see you just got a 220.Same as BlownAway has been running. It has been awesome from day one. My goal on this one is longer runtimes and less amps in the corners due to the props being in middle.
If you need that I can get depth to you in an hour or so when I get home.
Cool, inboard twin!
Nortavlag Bulc
Well onward we go on steering. I used these ball links on BlownAway and they have been holding awesome. They are the old school Tamiya ones like off the Bruiser truck. A bit pricey but it does seem you get what you pay for. And it is advised to chase the threads on the left hand ones. Or the aluminum will fall and the turnbuckle will be pooched.
It took a little bit of finicky filing to get the turnbuckles to slide nice and may take a bit more yet. Turnbuckles are from Secraft.
This servo arm started as one of Kent’s(CustomCFParts) which I cut a new CF piece so my ball links are 49mm apart instead of 30. I have proper 3mm drill bits for holes.
Next I’ll get the servo fixed.
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