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Thread: Project: Ugly Cat

  1. #1
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    Default Project: Ugly Cat

    Not quite sure what to call this at this time, I recently snatched this hull and hatch that he just happened to have around:


    I have one of these already but would like to do a different take on one.

  2. #2
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    I am going to use some spare accumulated parts here on this one. Twin(of course) TP 4050 950kv oldies, Etti 120HV's. Speedmaster hardware on the back. As I said I have one of these hulls already running so I have my targets all set and will run 10s2p.



    I am going with motors on the tunnel and therefore the struts centrally located and rudder between. As opposed to BlownAway which takes a very wide stance



    This hull has no rails so a custom HRC mount shall be in order. This hull should be substantially lighter than BlownAway as well.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    Not quite sure what to call this at this time, I recently snatched this hull and hatch that he just happened to have around:


    I have one of these already but would like to do a different take on one.
    Shawn, call it Genos cat I'll take it when your done. LOL

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    Quote Originally Posted by meangenesracing View Post
    Shawn, call it Genos cat I'll take it when your done. LOL
    I’m aiming for good runtime and a basher boat here pal. Something to run at that lake nearby with the waterski course on it. I keep building pretty boats and then fear the marker buoys.

    But you never know what else I come up with.

  5. #5
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    Nice pile of parts!!

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    Looks like a good start

  7. #7
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    Shawn
    I do hope that you are at least going to paint that hatch?
    A lower hatch may be in order.

    How big is that hull (10S-2P)?

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

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    The AC Boats R-42 is a great hull, especially for rough water. My 42” 10S version placed third among ~40 gas cats at the 2013 World's race in Houston. The hatch supplies a surprising amount of downforce, I would not change it out.


    .
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    Shawn
    I do hope that you are at least going to paint that hatch?
    A lower hatch may be in order.

    How big is that hull (10S-2P)?

    Larry
    I run 6s4p in BlownAway Larry. Granted generally 42-4400mah packs. And you wouldn’t believe the pull it has toward me painting it. And y’know I prolly will.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    The AC Boats R-42 is a great hull, especially for rough water. My 42” 10S version placed third among ~40 gas cats at the 2013 World's race in Houston. The hatch supplies a surprising amount of downforce, I would not change it out.


    .
    Jay, my friend took a shot at taking the hooking tendency out of the hull. He ground some of the leading edge of the runner in hopes that when the nose dropped in the corner that it wouldn’t carve inward. Just one side though for experiment sake


  11. #11
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    That’s odd, mine didn't hook at all, neither in rough race water nor in tight turns. Haven't heard of this tendency from others either. All were single drives, perhaps twins exhibit hooking.


    .
    ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for


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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    That’s odd, mine didn't hook at all, neither in rough race water nor in tight turns. Haven't heard of this tendency from others either. All were single drives, perhaps twins exhibit hooking.


    .
    Yeah BlownAway exhibits none of the hooking either but I recall someone(Howard?) in that thread mentioning it. I think it was there, I’ll have to re- read it

  13. #13
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    I managed to get reinforcements done. I still need to clean them up but it is strong and still light.




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    Cool

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    Quote Originally Posted by Prodrvr View Post
    Cool
    Surprising how much that stiffened it up out front. The hull itself is plenty strong but the upper deck was able to flex some. This I discovered on BlownAway from the only blow over I had. The clear coat got spiderwebbed from the experience. OUCH!! And since I am not sure where this hulls service duty will stop(SAW?), an ounce of prevention....

  16. #16
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    Absolutely

  17. #17
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    What's your method for getting the interior hull shapes correct?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Prodrvr View Post
    What's your method for getting the interior hull shapes correct?
    I use cardboard templates. I actually use Ram board which we put down during reno work. Then usually a little additional fit and trim for final install

  19. #19
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    Ok cool. I gotta try that...if I can get my hands to fit that far in the hull lol.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prodrvr View Post
    Ok cool. I gotta try that...if I can get my hands to fit that far in the hull lol.
    This is for the Cheetah? For that I would just do the deck to tunnel stringers:
    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...oof&highlight=

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...at)&highlight=
    Last edited by srislash; 10-06-2018 at 07:45 AM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    This is for the Cheetah? For that I would just do the deck to tunnel stringers:
    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...oof&highlight=

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...at)&highlight=
    No...I'm actually hating the Cheetah at the moment. I have buyer's remorse like you can't imagine. My concern is with the Central RC Marine 60" MTI I just bought. I ordered it with a full carbon interior...even the deck is done. I just want it to survive high speed crashes. My goal is to have it run high 80's.

  22. #22
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    Thank you for sharing those links for info!

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    I forgot about The CRC . Yes prolly just some bracing or combination of. The largest damage is from the deck collapsing and blowing out seams.
    Quote Originally Posted by Prodrvr View Post
    No...I'm actually hating the Cheetah at the moment. I have buyer's remorse like you can't imagine. My concern is with the Central RC Marine 60" MTI I just bought. I ordered it with a full carbon interior...even the deck is done. I just want it to survive high speed crashes. My goal is to have it run high 80's.

  24. #24
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    I got busy this morning and layed all this out and drilled it. Tinkered on the assembly through the day.




    I know it looks tight but it doesn’t take much rudder throw to get BlownAway to carve corners.

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    Shawn, what are you going to start with for strut depth?

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    I see you just got a 220.Same as BlownAway has been running. It has been awesome from day one. My goal on this one is longer runtimes and less amps in the corners due to the props being in middle.

    If you need that I can get depth to you in an hour or so when I get home.

  27. #27
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    Cool, inboard twin!
    Nortavlag Bulc

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    I see you just got a 220.Same as BlownAway has been running. It has been awesome from day one. My goal on this one is longer runtimes and less amps in the corners due to the props being in middle.

    If you need that I can get depth to you in an hour or so when I get home.
    Yes I did get one and need one more and then I can try my twin R42 again I may need to raise my struts up some more

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by meangenesracing View Post
    Shawn, what are you going to start with for strut depth?
    Gene I have Blown away set to 7/16” to prop shaft centreline. 1/4” from bottom of strut to table. Long round strut.
    Last edited by srislash; 10-07-2018 at 12:35 PM.

  30. #30
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    Well onward we go on steering. I used these ball links on BlownAway and they have been holding awesome. They are the old school Tamiya ones like off the Bruiser truck. A bit pricey but it does seem you get what you pay for. And it is advised to chase the threads on the left hand ones. Or the aluminum will fall and the turnbuckle will be pooched.





    It took a little bit of finicky filing to get the turnbuckles to slide nice and may take a bit more yet. Turnbuckles are from Secraft.




    This servo arm started as one of Kent’s(CustomCFParts) which I cut a new CF piece so my ball links are 49mm apart instead of 30. I have proper 3mm drill bits for holes.
    Next I’ll get the servo fixed.

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