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Thread: How to repair CF Zonda/Phantasm hull top separated from bottom?

  1. #1
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    Default How to repair CF Zonda/Phantasm hull top separated from bottom?

    A little high-speed blow-over, drove her back to shore to find her as in these photos. Both top and bottom appear to be fine, no cracks, damage, bends, just the glue at the seam failed. I would appreciate recommendations on how to reassemble the hull top/bottom halves of this carbon fiber boat.

    CF-Zonda-Hull-separation-bow.jpg
    CF-Zonda-Hull-separation-aft.jpg
    Pete


    Motley Crew, Impulse 31, Zonda Cat, Genesis, Aqua Rider tug, E-Revo Brushless, Slash4x4

  2. #2
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    Mmm, I’m not sure if I’d bother. Perhaps a new hull and do a full inlay in that. I’m not saying it can’t be repaired. But If your pushing #’s some reinforcement should be done. I haven’t split sponson tips, tuff area. But I have cracked the sides and split the Center between sponsons. Anyway you look at it it will be a full disassembly. Remove the foam for starters.

  3. #3
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    It is pretty much like assembly in the factory...
    First you should separate the two as much as possible and remove the old fiberglass strip that was holding them.
    Next step is remove the foam, scuff the inside with an 80 grit sandpaper and clean with acetone or alcohol.
    To reassemble, first use some CA just to hold it together, then tape the outside seam with electrical or hockey tape. After this, with some long thin brushes and a lot of patience you have to epoxy a strip of fiberglass (can be very thin tissue) all around the seam. After it has fully cured you can apply another layer of thicker and wider tissue all around. In this phase it would be an idea to do a full inlay, as suggested earlier.

  4. #4
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    OK, what's a "full inlay"?
    Pete


    Motley Crew, Impulse 31, Zonda Cat, Genesis, Aqua Rider tug, E-Revo Brushless, Slash4x4

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by petej View Post
    OK, what's a "full inlay"?
    Do the seams...from the floor to the deck as best as you can, the area where the deck joins the hull at the bridge, the transom, and the whole floor...from the transom to as far forward as you can reach.

  6. #6
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    On the inside of the hull, I also add 3mm cf sheet where the rudder and drives mount.

  7. #7
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    Personally, I'd throw that hull out and start over. Mine developed a small stress crack near the deck at the rear part of the hatch opening on it's maiden. Before things got worse, I gutted the hull and gave it to my painter as a tip for a couple of jobs he's doing for me. I replaced that Zonda with a full carbon Zonda...then reinforced the crap out of it.

  8. #8
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    Thanks.
    Pete


    Motley Crew, Impulse 31, Zonda Cat, Genesis, Aqua Rider tug, E-Revo Brushless, Slash4x4

  9. #9
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  10. #10
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    Default How to remove brittle, white, plastic like cement on TFL hull?

    Using a heat gun, I separated the deck from the hull. Deck and hull not torn, bent, in good condition. What is the brittle, white, plastic like cement I've found on TFL boats and the Zonda, as TFL-white-adhesive.JPGin this photo and how to safely remove it?
    Pete


    Motley Crew, Impulse 31, Zonda Cat, Genesis, Aqua Rider tug, E-Revo Brushless, Slash4x4

  11. #11
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    That is what they glue top and bottom together with. I’d say chip what you can off and grind the rest. After that I’d use FG tape to reattach the two.

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