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Thread: " did I get screwed" follow up report

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by donhuff View Post
    Why do you want to put the 1515 rotor in the gool? Ya know, you can make a fixture to put in the lathe , and it holds your dremel tool with a stone in it. Then bore out the stator's rotor hole until that rotor will just slide in it. Keep that air gap a tiny as possible, cause the tighter it is, the more torque/horsepower you make, for the same amount of amps used. I once bored out an AQ 2030 like that, and put a rotor out of a dyna 3835 1500 in it. That was the strongest AQ motor I ever built, but it was still no match for a stock 1500. I called it "Frank" short for Frankenstein!

    I use a one ton arbor press from harbor freight. Use enough pressure until you get it little enough to fit inside the can. I just press them until I feel the resistance get pretty hard. That lets me know it's about as far as it will go.
    But I don't think that it's necessary at all or has any bearing at all on the performance aspects of the motor. It's just to get them in the can. I really feel that they would cool better if left dangling in the air," IF" we had some air moving through the motors. Which we don't! Maybe being compressed helps carry the heat out through the stator ,case, cooling can, by making better contact with each wires surrounding wire. I have some insulating varnish which I have dipped a few wound stators in. It's supposed to lock all the wire in place so the don't wiggle and chafe the insulation, and transfer heat to the case better, because it is now one solid unit. I don't know for sure, but it does make them look good.
    Thank you. Reading lots!
    Nortavlag Bulc

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by donhuff View Post
    Your not gonna like the answer!!!


    I use a 3" diameter iron rod with a well bored into one end, filled with 3 parts LYE and one part salt. Put a torch on it and heat until it is liquid and blazing ass hot. Dip the wires in it and wait till it stops boiling, then dip slowly into water to cool before the lye has time to harden. Wash off with soapy water and solder pretty soon or the copper will corode. BE CAREFUL!

    Ray sez he uses an iron pipe cap and that should work fine too.
    The crap always sticks to my wires. What is bst way to clean it off Don?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    Don't forget the glasses and gloves.

    Larry
    Lye is a chemical that just keeps on burning...
    Nortavlag Bulc

  4. #34
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    OH, just wait until you get a tiny bit of it under one of your fingernails.. Ouch che mama!!! and it takes three days for it to dissolve and go away.

    If it's sticking and solidifying on your wire, you probably don't have it hot enough. After it melts, keep the heat on for a while before sticking the wire in. When it's right, the boiling will be vigorous but will remain low to the surface, and the fumes will ignite in flames instantly, but remain very short. The boiling wont last 10-15 seconds, and the wire should come out pretty clean. Have a container of water close and stick it in there quick as you can before it has time to harden. Be warned that the water will erupt when you do this so be prepared to get splattered with little drops of hot water/lye mixture. Wear protection or turn away.

    Then I use spray cleaner like spray 9 or 409 and soak it, brush with a wire toothbrush, rinse with water. Blow dry, flux and solder.

    It's real simple, don't know why your having a problem??? LOL

  5. #35
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    It wasn't helping that I did it in cold weather.

    I don't think I cleaned the wires well on one motor I did. 2 out of the 3 wires take solder well the one not as well.

    My brother gave me a big solder pot. I might fire it up and soak the ends in there a while and maybe recover it.

    I sent you the motor we talked about before I re read this.

    I have a couple Leopards that could use some of your TLC too and could have went in the same shipment.

    Making the steel outer form would be too much trouble for me but I could do the aluminum parts no problem. I would have to rig up a press with a car jack or something and then I'd have to source wire and most likely I would only find it in the USA.

    Depending on how long this CV-19 stuff lasts I could possibly get around to it.

    I wish I was living in the USA sometimes.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  6. #36
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    I don't know what you mean by "steel outer form"

    Yes, some of the Leopards really wake up after a rewind, mostly the .5 (half) winds. Because they have only half as much wire as they will hold on one set of the coils. But all leopards use that cheep Chinese wire with the low temp insulation, and none of them have as much wire in them as they will hold.

    I use a one ton arbor press from Harbor Freight, because that's what I have. You could make a press out of two by fours that would work just as well. It doesn't take that much pressure.

    I use Temco brand wire. Surely you could find someone in Canada that sells good. Just make sure it is 200*C rated, that's the big difference.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by donhuff View Post
    HA!!!

    I won't live long enough to write a book. It took me half a day to write these few paragraphs and add the pictures.
    This old thread came back to life with a post. Don, teach me and I'll write the damned book. I may not be the sharpest crayon in the box but I think I've shown I can type.......a bit.
    Noisy person

  8. #38
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    Thanks for sharing Don,

    How about some pics and descriptions of those rewound AQ motors with modified rotors.

    -Tyler
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by donhuff View Post
    I don't know what you mean by "steel outer form"

    Yes, some of the Leopards really wake up after a rewind, mostly the .5 (half) winds. Because they have only half as much wire as they will hold on one set of the coils. But all leopards use that cheep Chinese wire with the low temp insulation, and none of them have as much wire in them as they will hold.

    I use a one ton arbor press from Harbor Freight, because that's what I have. You could make a press out of two by fours that would work just as well. It doesn't take that much pressure.

    I use Temco brand wire. Surely you could find someone in Canada that sells good. Just make sure it is 200*C rated, that's the big difference.
    O.k. my mistake. The outside 'former' is aluminum. I probably used the term former incorrectly. You use it to keep the windings from squishing out too wide when compressing the windings.

    I could do this.

    I can't write for shiznits, let me wind the motors.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  10. #40
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    "How about some pics and descriptions of those rewound AQ motors with modified rotors."

    I'll Try to do that Tyler. But I usually wrap the rotors with carbon fiber and you won't be able to see the magnets. I'll see if I have some that didn't work out, in my "motor parts boxes" and I can take the carbon off and show the magnets.

    PS. I like the little sneeky looking fellow.

  11. #41
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    OH OK, Now I know what you mean. Yeah, I guess a former would be a good name for them. Mold and die too I guess.

    But yeah, make them out of aluminum, no need for the strength of steel. I bet you could make them out of wood and they would work ok, cause like I said, you don't press all that hard. But it would need to be a hard wood like oak, or maybe maple. And also like I have said before, some times you don't have to press, only if you have so much wire that by being loose, it won't fit back into the case.

    For the first few rewind jobs, I recommend not trying to "fill it up" to the brim with wire. It would be better to hone your "threading?" skills, and getting the motor back to running condition. Then after getting the hang of replacing the wire (correctly!!!) and without shorts, you can go for the "fill it up" process.

  12. #42
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    Hey Don,
    You need to get yourself some "mag film" and you can show off your rotors without removing the sleeve wrap.
    Add this to your next Amazon order. You will thank me.

    https://www.amazon.com/CMS-MAGNETICS.../dp/B000UV6ZPS
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

  13. #43
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    You can use that to see if a rotor has lost any Gauss over time. Check one rotor vs another, etc.... That's cool.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  14. #44
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    Don - you had made a comment earlier about difference between "Y" and "D" winds.

    I am looking at two different motors for a twin build. One setup would be a pair of SSS -1200 kv 5D. the other setup a pair of TP - 1170 kv 4Y ?

    Any body else may comment also.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  15. #45
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    Tyler,

    that looks interesting. I ordered one.

  16. #46
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    Larry,

    Soooooooo, what are you asking me? I don't understand.

  17. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by donhuff View Post
    Larry,

    Soooooooo, what are you asking me? I don't understand.
    If you were building a twin race boat and had the choice between these two motors , which set would you prefer?

    SSS -1200 kv 5D. the other setup a pair of TP - 1170 kv 4Y ?

    I myself am leaning towards the SSS motor, more for the cost ($105 cheaper for the pair)
    Although maybe the TP's are worth the extra $$ ?

    I have ran TP's with no problems, I have never ran SSS motors
    I guess my main question to you is the difference between "D" and "Y" winds?
    Some say "D's" are AMP hogs.
    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  18. #48
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    Lamar (my son) ran this motor last year at the spring nats. It runs pretty good.


    In the picture we have the 10 pole AQ motor, an 8 pole rotor and a short ten pole rotor that I made up to test the "theory" to see if it would even run. The Kv was out of sight, but luckily, I thought about that and tried it with a 2s pack, but I still did not go FULL RABBIT with the throttle, so I don't know what the Kv actually was.DSC_0002.jpgDSC_0003.jpg

  19. #49
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    Larry,


    The TPs are damn good motors. They are the only chi-neese motors that I know of that use the good 200 degrees C wire. The SSS brand is probably a Leopard is disguise. Several motors are actually Leopards of a different color.

    TPs are as close to a NEU as your gonna get with a cheaper motor than NEU. Size for Size, a NEU will always be stronger cause they put as much wire in them thangs as is humanly possible.

    If your going to push the new boat, I'd go for the TPs. But if you plan to take it easy, the SSSs might save you some money.


    (I'd buy the TPs if I were doing it)

  20. #50
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    Still waiting for someone to tell me WHY they think Deltas are amp hogs!!!!!!!!!!!

    I know the answer (I think) just waiting for someone to tell me ..." Because Joe Blow Dynamo sez so"

    Seriously, tell me why y'all think this.

  21. #51
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    Don - I do not know if this is right.

    A "D" has more low RPM tuque then a "Y" therefore more average AMP draw.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  22. #52
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    The racing I do requires efficiency rather than outright power and I will happily run a D or a Y, whichever comes closest to the KV that I want, with the motor size I want to run.

    Tenshock also make good motors in China, Their CZ and VS series motors are good motors for the money, and while they are too rich for my blood their EVO line are possibly the best commercially available motors available at any price, I know a bunch of people that have upgraded to them from Lehners of the same size and similar KVs.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  23. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    The racing I do requires efficiency rather than outright power and I will happily run a D or a Y, whichever comes closest to the KV that I want, with the motor size I want to run.

    Tenshock also make good motors in China, Their CZ and VS series motors are good motors for the money, and while they are too rich for my blood their EVO line are possibly the best commercially available motors available at any price, I know a bunch of people that have upgraded to them from Lehners of the same size and similar KVs.
    Any idea how these are? I can make a cooler for it if needed... Tenshock 1/8 Buggy 6 Pole Sensorless RC Brushless Motor X802V2-2400KV?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  24. #54
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    The only people I know using them are rock crawlers, they like them, and rave about a lack of clogging for a senseless setup, but it is a bit of an irrelevant review, as I don't think any of them have done any data logging, and probably wouldn't notice quite a large difference in efficiency.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  25. #55
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    Paul,

    Thank you so much for saying this

    "I will happily run a D or a Y, whichever comes closest to the KV that I want"

  26. #56
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    Larry,

    I don't know about that. I'm always reading something that conflicts what I have read before on the subject. But I know what your saying, as I have heard the same thing.

    BUT, what would it matter if one DID have more torque than the other at some point OTHER that at peak, or slightly below peak, rpm. We don't run our motors at low rpm/and WOT because that would burn them up. We can't even run them at half of peak rpm (except for maybe SAW runs) which is the typical rpm where peak horsepower is made. We usually run our motors at between 75 to 80% of peak rpm, which is the point where they make the most power, for the least heat generated.

    Say you want to run closer to your HP peak? Then you better up grade your cooling system! Get below that 75% mark, and heat increases rapidly.

  27. #57
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    HP peaks. Very interesting.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  28. #58
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    Paul,

    I looked at that Tenshock EVO, WOW. $199 for a 29x58 motor it really is an expensive little motor. Reading the specks to find out why, I see that it uses good bearings ans SILVER wire!! That's going to the extreme isn't it. So I had to look up a chart that shows the conductivity of various metals to understand why. And yes, silver is very slightly more electrical and heat conductive than copper, not much but just a tiny bit.

    Copper is rated at 100 as the baseline I suppose, and silver was rated at 104. Third in line was a surprise to me as I thought it would be better, Gold at 77.

    I also noticed the copper plate on the PTO side of the stator to make the Y connection, like most of the small 2 pole car motors use.

  29. #59
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    Ray,

    Tenshock 1/8 Buggy 6 Pole Sensorless RC Brushless Motor X802V2-2400KV? I think that if you want a motor like that, I would get one of the Dynamite 3935 40x82 motors, but it's only 1650 kv and that might not be enough for what you want to do with it. But internally that is basically the same motor, only 82mm long instead of 68mm long. Better yet, If you could find one that somebody has burned up, out of one of the RTR boats, and send it to me for a rewind at the higher kv and new ceramic bearings, then you would have a good motor!

  30. #60
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    "HP peaks. Very interesting."

    ?? questions???

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