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Thread: Flycolor 150 water inlet

  1. #1

    Default Flycolor 150 water inlet

    Anyone have an OSE part number or link to where I can buy this water fitting? Damaged in shipping and broke on repair...

    23A7DA54-3053-40A1-835F-544B841EC877.jpg
    IMPBA 20583

  2. #2
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    That is quite a long fitting & might have trouble finding a replacement,if you cant find a replacement fitting i would solder it back together with a nice large fillet of solder or better still low temp brazing.

  3. #3

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    borrow one from a rudder you might have not in use??doesn't have to be same length .
    volantex vector pro ,proboat veles 29 , traxxas spartan, hobbyking/tfl pursuit ,ft009 with rescue rigging

  4. #4

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    It's likely an M5x0.8 thread which is very close to a 10-32. I can't find the long one at McMaster, but I know they have some. You could call Rossi Sales (speedmaster) and order the long fittings.

    I only found a short one here:

    https://www.mcmaster.com/#2844k13/=1e0df4c
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

  5. #5
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    You could borrow a fitting from a rudder but make sure it has a 5mm thread, most medium size rudders have 4mm threads. Larger rudders like 130mm upwards have 5mm thread fittings, you could also use one of these from the OSE store part number tfl-521B03.

  6. #6

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    If you decide to try to solder/braze it, find a drill rod or some sort of metal shaft that fits inside, grease it up a bit and insert it before soldering/brazing. It will hold alignment and keep the inside from buggering up, the grease will keep solder from sticking to the metal shaft. Always try the infamous jb weld. lol

  7. #7
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    The fitting in the Flycolor 150 is deff 5mm as i have just removed a fitting to check.

  8. #8

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    Thanks to all of ya for the advice & info! I definitely won’t be soldering or brazing, but I know I have extra rudder fittings and if nothing else, that OSE part number will work. I’ll post up the final solution when it’s done, thanks again guys
    IMPBA 20583

  9. #9

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    You could remove the other end fitting and slide in a section of brass tube with abit of epoxy to hold the tube firm. drill out slightly larger to suit tube.

  10. #10
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    You mean like this:




    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  11. #11

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    No a full length of brass tube going right through esc, no threaded section.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rol243 View Post
    No a full length of brass tube going right through esc, no threaded section.



    I was replying to the op. In the pic I posted is an actual flycolor fitting. I had one burn up on me so I like to keep any parts off of them I can just for this purpose.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxguy View Post
    You mean like this:
    Exactly like that! Have one to spare?
    IMPBA 20583

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Insanity Plea View Post
    Exactly like that! Have one to spare?
    Yea I don’t need that one
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  15. #15

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    rol243 has a excellent answer and solder both ends in threaded areas!!!!!!!!!!!! But why not use aluminum pipe from HS and use JB weld at threaded ends with pipe end sticking ou 3/4"! If I recall aluminum pipe cools better than brass!
    Last edited by Norwest; 08-06-2018 at 05:52 PM. Reason: info

  16. #16

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    I’m not sure what the internals of an ESC looks like but I was assuming the water would run through veins or across a surface area like the cooling jacket on a motor. Would a piece of brass tubing pushed all the way through be effective for cooling? If it’s ran through a void then I don’t think it would be effective at all, it wouldn’t be much different than omitting that side all together.
    IMPBA 20583

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